Everything is perfect! And it is a good news for DIYers!

@Elmoret, if I understand well, when an early backer having a low number assembled filastruder and plan to DIY its own filter, the only answer is "Please wait to buy one first" 'and I'll show you pictures).

No, if you want to DIY one that is up to you. I asked you to wait because bombarding me with questions is inefficient when I had already planned to document it in a single place, with a well written post, in just a day or two instead of fragments all over the place in the meantime.

What was delivered via Kickstarter was as advertised. The new motors are faster, but the ones included with kickstarter units match the specifications provided during the kickstarter campaign.

If you buy a Ford Mustang today, and 6 months from now they release one that has 50 more horsepower, do you get upset about it too?

No one said mesh filter design required a PhD, it definitely doesn't. The question is not forbidden, but the timing was not great in terms of keeping things organized, when I had a new post planned. Here's that new post:

http://www.soliforum.com/post/35999/#p35999

@Elmoret, if I understand well, when an early backer having a low number assembled filastruder and plan to DIY its own filter, the only answer is "Please wait to buy one first" 'and I'll show you pictures).
And "Dear early backer, at the same time if you want the latest motor, you'ill have to pay again"

Are you less an open-source minder, helping DIYers, and more a salesperson?

I have kilos of good ABS (proto prints) to recycle, by cleaning, drying etc... And I can afford to DIY a mesh filter which does not require a PhD.
I understand I asked a forbidden question (mesh placement) and will answer myself. Thank you!

EDIT: OK OK, Patience, I have to adopt you! (Filastruder is soo addictive)

Patience!

+1

Here, it is true because aperture ratio avoids to create a too high local pressure (according to PV=constant).
Even a thin mesh like this can probably be deformed (convex) by the fluid pushing the mesh line.

Nope. I've run melt filters for 100s of hours and upon teardown, they are not deformed. There is very little viscous drag, because velocity is so low. In fact, it is 100x lower than the output velocity - so in our case, about 0.06mm/sec. Slow!

Melt filter opening size should be slightly less than nozzle diameter. I'll eventually add smaller melt filters if there is demand.

Here, it is true because aperture ratio avoids to create a too high local pressure (according to PV=constant).
Even a thin mesh like this can probably be deformed (convex) by the fluid pushing the mesh line.

Moreover, aperture ratio being linked to contamination items size, it is an interesting topic for filtering efficiency.

Thinking of spaghetti machine and meat grinder. 

Mesh filters are included, no need to purchase them separately.

Since the local velocity of the melt is low, the differential pressure is negligible.

About the recommended 250 microns mesh, which aperture is optimal?
I can find 30% open surface like this one:
w w w.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-WOVEN-WIRE-MESH-filter-grading-sheet-60-Mesh-250-Microns-/221266261949

And 44% like this one:
w w w.themeshcompany.com/acatalog/stainless-steel-woven-wire-mesh-A4-sheet-size.html (scroll to #34)

Having in mind that the mesh is creating a local pressure increase.

I finally rinsed all of the pellets and baked them in the oven before packing them into ziplocks with desiccant.   A melt filter would have saved me from that kind of effort.

Ralph

It really is the missing piece in the home extruder market. Pro extruders use melt filtering too.

I can see when you first startup that there would be metal shavings but after a hour or two wouldn't the barrel be clean?

Of course I usually get at least one of each so I'll probable order one but just wondering.

Ralph