DePartedPrinter
Sorry about not getting back to your emails sooner old bean, I had to run away abroad to sort out some sudden and unexpected family business that kept me away from E3D for a couple of weeks.

Lame that your heater broke in such little time! They are usually very tough little buggers (much more so than the enamel heater resistors commonly used) - you might want to check the connections hidden under the larger insulation tubes nearest to the cartridge - sometimes the crimps can work their way off the wires, especially if the printer is tugging on them occasionally.

Either way, I've put a new replacement heater for you in the "to ship" queue here at E3D-HQ, should dispatch in the next day or so.

Sanjay

Thanks for getting back on this Sanjay.  I will double check those connections.

Lame that your heater broke in such little time! They are usually very tough little buggers (much more so than the enamel heater resistors commonly used) - you might want to check the connections hidden under the larger insulation tubes nearest to the cartridge - sometimes the crimps can work their way off the wires, especially if the printer is tugging on them occasionally.

Either way, I've put a new replacement heater for you in the "to ship" queue here at E3D-HQ, should dispatch in the next day or so.

Sanjay

Edit:

E3D did respond: see below

But, I mean, whose failures have been because of the core? I have only had failure because of the joint where the wire is exiting.

It's nichrome and some sort of fire cement in those cartridges, surrounded by S.S. None of those have a melting point before 700 celsius.

I go through two or three heater cartridges a month in various projects similar to an extruder, so far in the last year I have only burned out two in a printer(not a SD) I have never had one fail at the transition between outside and inside wires in part because I never leave things to chance when it comes to routing wiring or any other lines. Most of the cartridges I burn up are usually in groups of heaters where the warmup time is more than 20 minutes for a group of six, also they are ran at spec watts 6X40=240 watts. I find that grouping the heaters gives me more redundancy for the heating stages.

Yeah. Because I will note I had had failure not of my heater, *but of the crappy wires solidoodle uses TO the heater*.  They are liable to fatigue and die. My first one died after three months, and the other wire-half of the circuit (I foolishly did not replace it at the same time) died after another three (total six.) Normally you would not expect this of thin wires from a decent supplier

I tested other hotends in the machine just to make sure nothing was wrong with the board or the wiring.  I was running the included wiring for the E3D all the way to the board when it was working though.

What do you read as a resistance on yours right now?

I will dig out the multimeter and report back.

I think Sanjay puts out an amazing product and if one bad heater slipped through its understandable (this does not look like one of the bad heaters though).

Don't think I don't like E3D.  They make the best hotend on the market by far.

This is a company that has a history of going out of their way to ensure customer satisfaction. http://www.soliforum.com/post/26830/#p26830

But, I mean, whose failures have been because of the core? I have only had failure because of the joint where the wire is exiting.

It's nichrome and some sort of fire cement in those cartridges, surrounded by S.S. None of those have a melting point before 700 celsius.

This was my thought.  Mine sure didn't fail at the wire exit point.  I would expect the internals to hold up longer than 20 hours.

It's nichrome and some sort of fire cement in those cartridges, surrounded by S.S. None of those have a melting point before 700 celsius.

Also, their fan for me rocks. It's incredibly responsive to sudden increased loads, and slows itself down.  I accidently stuck a razor in mine today and it scarred the blade *but didn't break it.* By contrast, my solidoodle fan lost a wing when my finger touched it [granted, there is more rotational energy in a 40mm than a 30mm fan.]

I would second the ebay suggestion. If for some reason you really can't use ebay (filter for "items in north america" to pay a few bucks more and get it much quicker), then I could part with one of my spares...but I'd rather not. Note, my spares are as good as E3D's, which are better than Qu-Bds (I have two failed Qubds resistors   ).

I would disagree with the idea that the cartridges are not good for 300C. I suspect they will last a very very long time at that temperature. The trick is making sure you are very good about taking the stress off the junction of the resistor and wire.  You do *not* want that bending back and forth.  I have mine secured with the good red insulation and further supported by some kapton tape to get it in a fixed position.