Just wanted to post an update so that others could learn from this.

I think the makers of aqua net should just sell their products only for 3d printing. From the smell of the stuff I couldnt imagine putting it in my hair. Burns your nose hairs right off

As for the true circle thing I would concentrate on getting most of the other things zeroed in before starting in with the belts as they can be tricky if other thing are out of whack, then you end up chasing problems around that might be caused by something else... or not

How about the issue with the true circle realign?
Is it alright for the rod in the back to be poking out either side?

I believe have found a bulletproof solution:
1. Glass bed (more for durability since you want your parts to stick so eventually the Kapton will wear out).

2. Hairspray containing PVM/MA.  They probably all do.  Every cheap one of the shelf did.  The finger pump kind gives less over spray and there are no propellants that could get in the way.

3. A secret sauce of ABS pipe cement cleaner stuff from the hardware store(Oatey #30795, MEK and acetone), with some ABS dissolved in it.  Not too much ABS, maybe skim milk consistency, maybe less. Less is more here.

4. A pump of hairspray on the  hot glass.  Wait 10 seconds.  Paint a single coat of the secret sauce onto the build area.  Done.

Rationale:
1. PVM/MA sticks to the glass really well.  Solvent dissolved  ABS not so much.

2. MEK in the pipe cement cleaner completely dissolves the ABS, acetone alone does not.

3. MEK is a solvent for the PVM/MA, acetone is not.

Big prints small prints, fat prints, skinny prints.  Fast low res or slow high res.  They all  stick.  I don't use brims on prints that are short anymore.  Only tall thin ones.

Good Luck and pass it on if it works for you.

Thanks for at least chiming in TheBaron, and godspeed to the delivery of your SD3. Even with the problems I've been having, It's amazing just to watch the printer work. At first I thought I would just set it and walk away, but I find myself watching the entire printing process with pure amazement

And yes, penguins and gimbals are acceptable.

And I'm using the 1.75mm Natural White ABS from Solidoodle

Edit: Are you using ABS or PLA?

I got my SD2 last friday and have been messing with it over the weekend. The only thing that actually seems to print even slightly well is a turtle I got from thingiverse. I tried printing a couple different parametric gimble designs but they all failed miserably. The prints just don't want to stick that well. The couple that do stick end up being messed up later on in the print.

I think maybe I need to adjust my belts. Specifically the y belts. There's a light click sometimes when the carriage is moving towards the front of the printer. But it's just one click, not multiple. I've tried the true circle realignment. On the solidoodle official video it says that the rod in the back should be flush with both sides. Mine is always poking out either one side or both.

I've been trying to tune the printer for a couple days now but I just feel like I'm messing things up more than I'm helping. I used a .305mm feeler gauge to attempt to level the print bed, done the true circle realignment and have tried adjusting the print settings for a thicker first layer. I have also adjusted the z tab adjustment.

It still prints not very nice circles and pulls the print off the bed.

I'm going to grab a glass sheet and hairspray first thing tomorrow. I just want to know if there's anything I'm overlooking or something I've been doing wrong.

Even with default settings on slic3r it's not printing very well.

I'm looking forward to your responses. This forum and its community is one of the main reasons I bought a solidoodle(that and the price ).

Thanks all