Also - if you have trouble  remember WD40 is great !

With all the JAMS - maybe solidoodle will be the first to redesign an EASIER way to get to the filament and be able to remove hotends to dejam these ! !!!!

While the hobbed gear might not have enough power to push filament through without stripping it, a solid rod like the one I was using, or a metal one (with a smooth rounded tip), being manually pushed in, are more than a match for a clog. 

You should see the filament still inside the peek and the hot-end squirt out in no time.

Think of it as a hot-end version of a cattle prod

I'm fairly certain the oven/blowtorch method is required in this situation.  I started to disassemble the extruder, however, unlike Ian's screws facing outward, mine are in the carriage backward, with nuts on the outward end.  Unfortunately, when I try to turn the nuts, the screws turn along with them making no progress.  I tried the official solidoodle video to remove/ replace the hot end, but my screws holding the wooden insulator were too long for it to fit below and slide out, hence the need for extruder disassembly.  How do you remove these nuts?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

I have an E3D on the way.

You have found happiness

I've cleared a few clogs by removing the barrel from the PEEK and holding it upside down by the nozzle with a pair of pliers while heating it up. I also had to screw in the PEEK while the barrel was hot to get it not to leak.

And I also eventually melted my PEEK from doing this sort of clog removal and reassembly.

When it works, the guitar string method is great.  Unfortunately, it doesn't always work.

I have an E3D on the way.

1.I'll pause my print (yes I do this quick during a print.)

2. Move Extruder Head to home position.
3.Pull out my Diesel Injector Cleaning kit. (It is a kit for engines at is designed to push carbon and gunk off of the injectors in the motor/head.) It comes with wires of different sizes and a tool to hold them. I push the proper  wire up the nozzle while its in the home position I can do it when the print bed is at any level.

4. Extrude 50-100 cm of plastic from nozzle
5. Move the print bed down
6. Click resume and hope that printing works better.  IF not repeat and extrude even more plastic.

Some times I've had to use a heavy wire (thickness similar to filament  to push from the top to get plastic to move through the nozzle if I let the jam/clicking noise go on too long.

Stevos758 wrote:

I just used the torch method. Man that is awesome!

When I saw that on the official solidoodle site as a last resort, I was a little worried. Know what I know now, I say bring on the heat. lol

Also, the drill method is nice.

There was a nice customer who informed by the cleaning cycle in a self cleaning oven does wonders. Perhaps someone should give it a shot.