SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Build log of my Filastruder

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (REdington) — Mon, 20 May 2013 21:57:02 +0000

Tim
Sent a email to you at the filastruder email address.

Rodney

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (IanJohnson) — Mon, 20 May 2013 17:55:32 +0000

The nipple needs to be tighter than you can get with your hand, it should be wrenched a little. If you end up running the extruder a little too cool or it builds up a little too much pressure, it can screw the nipple in tighter if it was a bit loose to start with. That turns the opening and shuts it off from the hopper. It's a pain when that happens, because then you have to unbolt the flange and turn it 90 degrees to get the opening pointed up again. Fortunately that is easier with the Kickstarter version than the Beta v2.

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (Ralphxyz) — Mon, 20 May 2013 17:46:14 +0000

So does it have to be "tight". From the video nothing is much more than hand tight.

Actually I was amazed at the lack of precision and lack of pipe wrenches to put everything together.

I am glad nothing is critical makes it a lot easier for me.

Ralph

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (elmoret) — Mon, 20 May 2013 16:03:57 +0000

REdington wrote:

I was trying to get it turned another 1/16th of a turn to get the hole for the hopper straight up.

This is not critical. Within 45 degrees of vertical is fine.

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (IanJohnson) — Mon, 20 May 2013 16:00:01 +0000

I can't get a seamless nipple from McMaster either, though Tim can. The nipples at the Los Angeles warehouse have a bead, while the warehouse that serves Tim are ground down. Nobody else cares about that, so it isn't something you can find out until you actually have one to inspect.

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (REdington) — Mon, 20 May 2013 15:42:58 +0000

Nimikin wrote:

So, I went to say that's impressive, but Tim has beat me to it. Thats a fairly strong over torque, was it in a vice?

No vice was used. Used the 4 bolts in the block of wood and held it in my hand
I was trying to get it turned another 1/16th of a turn to get the hole for the hopper straight up.

As Tim said, when tightening, grip the nipple between the hole and the flange and you should be OK.

If I cannot find a seamless nipple today locally, I'll take Tim up on his offer rather than try to make one.

Rodney

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (Ralphxyz) — Mon, 20 May 2013 14:40:55 +0000

So that is why Tim used his Channel Lock pliers backward in the video. It is hard to over tighten things with backwards pliers.

Ralph

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (Nimikin) — Mon, 20 May 2013 05:05:47 +0000

So, I went to say that's impressive, but Tim has beat me to it. Thats a fairly strong over torque, was it in a vice?

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (DePartedPrinter) — Mon, 20 May 2013 05:03:12 +0000

Wow

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (elmoret) — Mon, 20 May 2013 03:07:57 +0000

That is impressive! Can I get a copy of your workout plan?

It's a good idea to grip the pipe right next to the flange, before the cutout. You also definitely don't need to go this tight, 10 ft-lbs is plenty.

We can mail you another if you promise not to break it!

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (ronsii) — Mon, 20 May 2013 03:06:00 +0000

Another thing to try would be to heat up the flange(300-400 degrees) and not the pipe then tighten, no more than about 20 ft/lbs should be sufficient when the temps equalize it shouldn't move and you will have a very tight joint without overtightening.

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (REdington) — Mon, 20 May 2013 02:51:51 +0000

The thin layer of wood on the wood blocks broke out very easy.
Here is a word of caution on over tightening the flange to the nipple.
I used a pipe wrench and here is the results

I need to find another nipple that doesn't have a seam in it. I tried HD and the local True Value and both had seams in their nipples.
Worse case will be to get a piece of DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing and mount it in my lathe, bore and ream it for the ID, cut the pipe threads on it, and set it up in the mill and mill the opening in it. For me this is just a little extra work as I do have all the tools to make a new one that most DIYers don't have.

If I end up using DOM, I'll will document it here with photos.

Rodney

Re: Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (elmoret) — Sat, 18 May 2013 22:39:17 +0000

Good to hear!

The CNC router sometimes doesn't punch all the way through. It should be just a thin layer of wood if anything.

Sorry about the nozzle! I only saw the undrilled in your order notes. I'll have to revise the questions to make them clearer on future surveys. Happy to mail you one if you need, otherwise instructions for drilling are in the main PDF.

Build log of my Filastruder

null@example.com (REdington) — Sat, 18 May 2013 17:32:37 +0000

Got my kit in a box today. Fits nicely in the flat rate box. My serial number is 42.

#1 First thing I noticed is that the holes on the wood blocks do not go all the way thru.
No big deal.
#2 Ordered a extra blank nozzle. I got the blank and not one with a hole in it that was suppose to be in kit.
(Tim, don't worry about it.) All I need to know if the hole is counter bored on the back side or just simply drilled one size for 1.75mm filament.

I'll start the assembly tonight.

Tim, you have done a super job with this.

Thanks

Rodney