If you wanted to take the risk, I'm sure you could dismantle the relevant part, measure it up, and then make a stl file of the model in 3D CAD software. Maybe even print out a spare at high infill and 0.1mm res.

Actually I have designed a few pieces for replacement parts but most of the parts have also been made by others here and can be found on this site, thingiverse or grabcad.

The two drive rods on each side presents other problems with alignment as the SD printer is designed now the x and y axis are 1 DOF so you will not have binding if there are alignment issues as only one rod controls alignment in the plane, not saying it is impossible but it adds a lot of complexity and other changes just to make alignment right.

I have several printers and they all look similar or worse than yours but are still going strong after thousands of prints The good thing about the SD plastic brackets is they are made from ABS so you can glue them if they happen to break.

What you are saying is true, but it seems to me we are missing the most important aspect of solid doodle vs other printers. SD is pretty much open source platform. So, this means as a community we can all contribute to making our doodles and future production doodles way better than any vendor can on his own.

I have limited time and it will take forever to design/implement all of the things i am about to list on my own; lets tackle them together:

1. Two support rails for each of the two sides of the Y-Axis. This should result in 0 moment from drive belts, producing smoother operation.

2. Replace X-Y axis belts with screw drives or finer toothed belts to minimize backlash.
2.5 Use direct drive for y-axis. currently the use of 2 belts results in 2x the backlash.

3. Use full metal extruder to enable extrusion of higher temperature materials.

4. Built in heat gun and covers for the printer to reduce warping. Some people already doing this with heat gun / hair dryer. We just need to create a standard design.

5. Built in fan on print head to allow cooling of extreme overhangs. Need a dedicated pin on the control board to control the fan via Gcode for overhangs but not other printing.  This concept has already been proven; see "extreme overhangs" thread.

I am sure there are other things people can think of.

Ideally this bracket should extend above the drive belt and have 2nd guide rod above the belt to have a 0 net moment from the belt; just like the X axis is.

Thanks ahead