why didnt Solidoodle put the Z motor at top like the Press is now? but they still have the same double duty belts driving 'Y' carriage instead of direct drive to replace 1 belt

Tealvince posted them there.

I wish SD hadn't changed the overall design so much when they went to the aluminum platform.  The four holes are in the top surface of the platform carriage, but they just welded a nut to the bottom side of it instead of using the four hole connection that allows the nut hugger to grip.

its called a blind nut. I have a kit of them with tool to set them, they work like pictured

The finer the pitch, the better the results should be. I think the consensus is both are a good improvement over stock so most go with m5 because it's more convenient to gather parts for.

For the record, I wasn't the one who did this first, I just organised my version into a pretty thread.

oh ok cool. thankyou for the help.

For the record, I wasn't the one who did this first, I just organised my version into a pretty thread.

would you recommend this mod over the m3 rod, that people have done?
I know you came up with this mod, I was just wondering if the m3 rod is that much better?

http://www.stepperworld.com/Tutorials/p … epping.htm
http://www.zaber.com/wiki/Microstepping_Tutorial

Thanks all for this. It has massively improved print quality. Keep in mind I'm dialling in a new hot-end still and have some flow issues; but heres my results, deliberately back lit to enhance the surface contrast:
Before on Left, After on Right:

And a 0.05mm:

Putting aside that this improves the print quality why do we need so many steps? I mean if the stepper is capable of turning so accurately why would we need to move the z axis less then .05mm?

I don't really understand stepper motors very well (but i want too). If you look at a cnc lead screw its 10mm or more yet it has far higher accuracy then we can hope to acheive? Is this just because its a high precision component?

Find a pipe that can fit over the threaded rod, and is shorter.  Put a large washer over the top of the rod, resting on top of the pipe.  Thread a 5/18 nut over the rod.  As you tighten the nut it will bottom out on the washer, and since it can't go down any more, it will start pulling the rod up.

You are going to want to use 2 addition nuts on the top of the rod jammed together that you will put a wrench on the keep the rod from spinning while tightening the nut on the pipe. Or if you don't care about the threads on the rod, a set of vise grips will do the same thing.

This is what my pictures are attempting to show. I just happen to have a tool that encapsulates a 5/16" nut. Same concept. Per usual Ian is able to explain it in a much simpler way.

Jonathan wrote:

Could someone provide a link to instructions on how to calibrate the z steps/min for this mod? I have searched and cant find an answer. I know where to di it in repeater host. But I dont know the formula to figure what value I should change it to. Any help would be much appreciated.

The stepper motor has a resolution of 3200 steps/mm, so for thread pitches of:

Stock rod (1/18"): 3200/1.411 = 2268
M5 x .8 (coarse thread): 3200/0.8 = 4000
M5 x .5 (fine thread): 3200/0.5 = 6400
M3 x .5 (coarse thread): 3200/0.5 = 6400

Thanks guys I was real confused on this part. Also if anybody has any tips on how to remove the old sd pressed rod. Im all ears lol. I worked on it for 2 hours last night and couldn't get it to budge. I think I might have even hurt the stepper motor pulling on it. Does and one have a link on where to buy a stepper motor that doesnt have the sd rod pressed onto it?