Fortunately, letting it sit at 210 worked. I also had to increase the amps through the stall board a little, but it got going, so I backed it off a little. When it's pushing filament, should it be blue AND green, or no green? Just a flicker? I mean, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but I don't want to shorten its life, either.

Yep, the only material that has been in it so far has been the included ABS pellets.
I'll plan to start with 210 and see if it moves.
Assuming it doesn't, what is the best method for removing the nozzle, to avoid loosening the coupler or pipe, when there's almost nothing to grab onto? Is it ok to use vicegrips on the pipe clamp on the heating element in order to hold the coupler?
As I mentioned, I can stumble my way through it, but I want to avoid  having to order replacement parts so soon, so I'm seeking your experienced advice.

Are you running the provided ABS? You might have some impurities clogging the nozzle. You can try upping the temp also

Yeah, I would heat it up to maybe 210, let it sit for 30 minutes, then turn on motor, if it is still completely stalled then turn the motor back off.  Remove the nozzle, put the thermocouple somewhere that it’s still making good contact with the metal, turn on motor and see if it turns at all then.  If it extruded for several hours at 190 then it doesn’t need anywhere near 250 to melt.

After assembly of Filastruder and Filawinder, I installed them on a vertical surface using the auger assisted vertical hopper powered by a Filawinder geared motor. Everything was functioning nicely according to the manual and various videos I had watched.

I was running at 190 after measuring and increasing temp until I got to about 1.75mm. It was pretty consistent within .03mm variation and going great. I watched intently for a couple hours before I decided to go back to work after setting up a remote camera to monitor it from. Even then, I was watching it pretty closely.

About half way through extruding the provided pellets, I noticed that the filament had broken at the nozzle, so I went out to check and the main motor was no longer spinning. The fans were on, and the temperature was hanging closely around 190. I turned off the motor switch, and waited a few moments, then turned it back on. It moved a very small amount before stopping, so I turned it off again.

Ready to make adjustments to the stall board, I turned the motor back on, and noticed the red LED was on, as was the blue. I turned up the second pot to increase the amps to the motor, and it moved a little more, tightening the pipe in the flange a little more as well, but not properly rotating. I turned it up far enough that the PSU browned out, so I knew it wasn't going anywhere and I turned off the motor again.

I had run it dry quite a bit to make sure it was turning smoothly and that the stall board was properly configured. It did it's job, of course, but now the auger is jammed in the pipe. I also feared the possibility of one or more wires inside the housing having snagged on the shaft somewhere and getting bound up. I've taken it apart again, and could not find any evidence of damage or snagged wiring.

Before I do something wrong, I'd like the recommendations from the experts here on how to proceed. I've gotten myself into trouble in the past when I thought I knew how to fix things, but did not. I don't want to break anything.

My plan, after confirming everything is undamaged, was to fire it up again but at a higher temperature. How high can I go before burning the material? Since this is ABS, I'm assuming I can go up to 250 or so if needed?

What else should I watch our for or be aware of?

Thank you for reading, and I look forward to your expert assistance.