SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — giantarmd200

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Sun, 03 May 2020 09:18:29 +0000

done all that tested it found it to be dead the meter was one of the frist thing i did, and the only thing i will say to you all is that dont belive every thing on you-tube reviews we went on the reviews and i can olny say that they were not that honest. thanks to you all any way . we went and got a anycubic mega s, so the geeetech gaintarm d200 is going back to ebay

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (TheBaron) — Sat, 02 May 2020 21:24:09 +0000

I agree with everyone on here. Get yourself a multimeter so you can do continuity tests. This will save you a LOT of time and effort in the long run, and the skills you learn from it will easily translate to troubleshooting things like automobile wiring. It's a good ability to have.

Also going to second Heartless's opinion on geeetech. I have gotten boards and things from them in the past and I had about a 50% success rate on the things actually working.

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Sat, 02 May 2020 20:59:19 +0000

I say AGAIN why do you think you need parts??? do you own a multimeter ?? do you know how to use it??

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Sat, 02 May 2020 18:16:55 +0000

the frist photo 2nd photo shows all what would be inside the frist. if you took the cover off. considering that the gaintarm d2oo has been out since 2017 and no parts show up on line

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Sat, 02 May 2020 17:23:37 +0000

Tony are you sure you are not creating a mountain from a mole hill here.
the photo you show show a couple of bent pins and you reported loose connection to the board.
Unless you have an open or short across the thermistor you should be able to make some adjustments reassemble things and make it work.

Like i said before check things with a meter.

What parts do you NEED have you even determined that ?

or are you just trying to throw parts at this thing to make it work.

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Sat, 02 May 2020 15:25:22 +0000

does anyone know of any good sites for buying 3d printer parts, i have for the last few days on the internet looking for parts for this
Printer GiantArm D200 .,even been on the makers site, still awaiting to hear back from them, even oem parts would do

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Tue, 28 Apr 2020 08:04:18 +0000

you were right it was the 2 red wires had come off the bit which is the part nozzle pins, so the ebuy seller is ship out all the parts i need. thanks for all your help.

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Mon, 27 Apr 2020 23:46:52 +0000

Tony it seems like you are relying on visual clues as you are posting photos . You really need a meter to properly troubleshoot. Also your pins are clearly bent and out of alignment. The pins should be in the same pattern as the bottom of the board.

Also why have you started a separate thread with the same issue . That confuses things even more.
I understand you are frustrated, however frustration can cause poor judgment and mistakes . Take a deep breath and try to relax.

Take it step by step. if you do not understand ask. we can likely get you through this.

From what i can see is you are guessing where the problem is .

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Mon, 27 Apr 2020 17:33:30 +0000

thank you heartless just taken this photo extruder -con -c and this was ment to be a brand new manchine, new parts coming in a day or so thank you

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (heartless) — Mon, 27 Apr 2020 13:26:59 +0000

the two heavy, "waxy" wires are for the heater cartridge.
black and red wire pairs are typically fans.
the 4 multi-color wires in the one plug at the back are for the extruder motor.
the pair of smaller red only wires in the white plug next to the waxy wires are most likely the thermistor wires.

Now, with all of that information in hand..
yes, the rubbing noted on the big waxy wires is of concern, but it is not the source of your temperature reading issue. those wires operate the heater only. As long as the rubbing has not compromised the inner plastic coating, they should be fine.

the thermistor is the problem here - meaning the two small red wires - one (or both) wires to the thermistor itself are broken or otherwise damaged somewhere along the line. This is where the problem lies. If the controller board can not get a proper reading of ambient temperature when turned on, it will not function - period. It will not take commands, it will not send power to the heaters, it will not function AT ALL until the temperature readings are restored to normal function. BOTH thermistors (hot end and heated bed, if available) must be in good operating order before the printer will function.

Now, why it is showing a temp error on the hotend (the -17 temp reading), but telling you the Bed is out of order is kind of weird.. but either way - the thermistor is definitely a problem. Fix the hotend thermistor and you may be able to restore function.

and for the record "not a good fit" and options that are supposed to be there, but are not (your wifi issue), are pretty typical of Geeetech. That is why most people with any real experience will not recommend any of their products.
To be perfectly honest, I am amazed they are even still in business.

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Mon, 27 Apr 2020 08:05:23 +0000

inside there is 2 big fat wax red wires here is 2 photos of the wires the way it was put togther means it was a very tight fit, i have read on this site page 8 second from the bottom that the parts are not fit.

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Sun, 26 Apr 2020 22:15:42 +0000

so you are telling me the plug is buggered.

Those connectors are usually fairly reliable so are pins missing or just bent

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Sun, 26 Apr 2020 21:07:01 +0000

i have now found the cause for the break in the thermistor its the wiring to big coated wax wiring and i now in closed 2 photos of what needs to be replaced, not very happy about it at all , these 2 wires are to do with temp for the nozzel

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (Tin Falcon) — Sun, 26 Apr 2020 13:02:04 +0000

Ok a lesson 3d printing 101 if both temp readings are not showing ambient do not try to heat things.
Looks like a break in the thermistor circuit is causing issues
Here is a tutorial of how the thermistor works.
. https://www.circuitbasics.com/arduino-t … -tutorial/

May be time to pull out the multimeter and do some troubleshooting exploring.

Would not heart to check the continuity of the bed heater. While you are at it

http://www.giantarm.com/document/Gianta … Manual.pdf

Re: giantarmd200

null@example.com (tony4) — Sun, 26 Apr 2020 12:02:27 +0000

we brought this the other day giantarmd200, now it as some more issues with it, 1] Extruder nozzle coming out slow and thin. now 2] Error: BED-TEMP the heating element is out of order, the bed - plate is fine , i think its some thing to do with the nozzle. the Giantarm_D200_3D_Printer_User_Manual and sad to say the surpport as not been forth coming on geeetech own web site the last photo i might have to buy a new one . any help would be greatful for some thanks you very much we only got it make some 3D HEADBAND for our n.h.s to help them