I got it, I had accidentally hit BLTouch before and it added two files to my system folder and they were looking for a set value but was never getting it.  So I deleted them and it is back up and running now with out the errors.

Glad it ended up being something simple!

I'd love to see your setup! Not many of us out there haha.

After changing my Y axis to direct drive I really only have one final issue, and that is the dipping of the printhead as it reaches the middle of either axis. Yours may be better off, but from what I can tell, the rods are bent a little and also flex a little as you approach the center. They are glued in place on the carriages and I'm thinking of trying to break them free and rotate them 180° to counter whatever bend is in them. It's quite annoying considering I also have backlash in the Z axis (.5mm) and I can't use Zhop or anything related to Zhop while printing. This means I've also edited the Duet 2 Wifi Pause file so that it doesn't lift the head, which works great! I've also accounted for the slop with some clever start gcode, which I'll give you if you need it.

One last thing regarding belt tension for the Y axis:
The LEFT belt needs to be tight and the RIGHT belt needs to be loose. This is CRITICAL but I never knew it until a few days ago.
The reason is that the left side carriage has two points of contact but the right side only has one, which is allowed to pivot. Thus you need slack on the pivot side or you end up binding the left side and it will skip steps.

Regards,
ESOCHI

3/23/2020, 7:26:38 PM   
     Error: M280: Invalid servo index 3 in M280 command

3/23/2020, 7:26:29 PM    G28 Z
     Error: M280: Invalid servo index 3 in M280 command

Or does any one know how to fix it? 

I am running a Workbench with E3d V6 Hotends, Bondtech extruders and Duet 2 Wifi board.  I also have been using the config tool for the Duet 2 Wifi.  I am also using RH for my slicer

I have been doing an upgrade since when I bought this one it did not work from Solidoodle. Then right after I got it they went out of business and I am super excited to see some prints off of it last night and today.  But I have received those error and I can not get them to stop even when I went back to the json code from earlier when I did not receive them.

Thank you so much for any ideas.

Used M3 allthread and some nylon lock nuts to attach the motor to the printed piece. It would be way easier with some M3 bolts, but I didn't have any.

I've uploaded the stl here:Thingiverse Link

Regards,
ESOCHI

Why is the Benchy so small? It should be almost 60mm from stem to stern and 31mm at it's widest. Your microsteps or steps per mm for set microsteps is wrong. I bet if you measure that Benchy it will be half or a third of the correct size.

Solid guess on the size, I ran it at 50% with a .2 nozzle. I'm trying to max out precision.

As I was writing the last post I decided to mess with the belts some more, and MAN am I glad I did. I was trying to reduce tension on the Y axis drive belt, which I hadn't tried yet. I was able to fully control tension via the two lower bolts that hold it onto the frame. I can now slide the Y axis really well! EDIT: It's a good bit better. I started the print with all belts loose. As it printed I tightened them until I couldn't see any wiggle when they switched direction. They aren't tight but aren't floppy either. So far this has given me the best results.

RH kept my bed at 55c throughout the entire print, so thumbs up for suggesting that instead of Cura.

Thanks, as always, for the replies! This has been a heck of a learning experience.

Regards,
ESOCHI

My last hurdle is taming the backlash I'm getting. Curves are a bit skewed on one axis. The Y motor has trouble moving everything especially if I tighten any belts (yes, I've also loosened them and tested, which helped more than tightening) so I've bought a pack of timing pulleys that have 16 teeth instead of 26. This should not only add a good bit of torque (I'm already at max amperage) but should add some precision as well, although I may already be past that threshold and it wouldn't be noticeable. They arrive tomorrow!

Interesting side note, I'm almost positive that I have about a .05 to .1mm sag when the Y carriage is in the middle of the supports, and no sag once it gets close to the left or the right side. I thought my bed was off when I started this journey but a weight based sag makes much more sense.

Regards,
ESOCHI

So basically I'm controlling the old board via USB and Cura, using the "preheat" function in Cura in leu of trying to run an actual gcode file because it's one button to click and to be honest I haven't tested any other route.

I imagine I could make a gcode file that has no extruder heat or motor movements, just a code to heat the bed until I shut down the 12v supply. (I have the power supplies off when I'm not near the machine and they're on wifi plugs so if a print runs late I can shut things down remotely)

I bought a few 100k thermisters so that the old board still "thinks" everything is in order, plus I used one on the Duet so it "thinks" the bed is connected.

If you used a Repetier Host it has a machine control panel where you can just turn the heaters on ans set them for a desired value and they will stay on till you turn them off. Unless you just have to use Cura.

I imagine I could make a gcode file that has no extruder heat or motor movements, just a code to heat the bed until I shut down the 12v supply. (I have the power supplies off when I'm not near the machine and they're on wifi plugs so if a print runs late I can shut things down remotely)

I bought a few 100k thermisters so that the old board still "thinks" everything is in order, plus I used one on the Duet so it "thinks" the bed is connected.

Imgur Album

Currently I've made the following additions:
Removed the entire hot end/extruder/carriage and replaced it with an E3D Titan Aqua w/ Water Cooling Kit.
Added a 24v Duet 2 Wi-Fi board and 24v Mean Well power supply kit
Added a cable management system I designed/printed.

Other Modifications Made:
The Z stop/probe was relocated to the frame instead of leaving it on the carriage. As the bed rises it hits the button. In other words I don't have the auto bed level function anymore.
The original 12v board is still in use for the 12v fans and LED, the water cooling kit, and the heated bed. I control the bed via Cura right now, completely separate from the actual gcode running through the Duet. I'm open to suggestions on this aspect as Cura times out on its "pre-heat" function after like 10 minutes and I have to hit it again.
I added some start gcode to compensate for the Z axis backlash/elephants foot that is god awful on this machine. It kinda causes a slight head crash but there's more than enough flex for that to be fine for now.

G28 ;Home
G1 Z10.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 10mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
G1 X30 Y30 Z0 ;moves onto print bed from home and drops Z to 0
G1 Z0.50 ;backlash compensation
G92 Z0 ;reset Z to "0"
M572 D0 S0.1 ;pressure advance value for reprap firmware

If anyone wants any of the files I have no issue uploading them somewhere.
Same goes for the Duet 2 Configuration files.

Imgur Album

Youtube link. I'm using Blender 2.8 for this.

Aside from that, I have the board talking to the motors more or less correctly, and my extruder is spitting out 100mm on the dot. I can run at least the water cooling pump from the old 12v Solidoodle board. The 12v fan doesn't want to run off it though so I'll have to deal with that somehow. Maybe just go back to the 24 to 12v converter.

That's all for now!

Regards,
ESOCHI

I'm configuring the Duet 2 WiFi now, and slowly things are coming together. I'll post my config file after I'm done just so it's available if anyone else does this mod.

Current holdups I still need to figure out:

Heated bed has 4 identical red wires in its plug, but the Duet only has a 2 post connector for heated beds. I'm thinking I should just split off 2 and 2.

Z probe vs Z stop issues. Solidoodle wired the Z probe as if it were a stop switch, and the Duet has an option for both a Z stop and a Z probe, but the probe is wired differently (4 pin instead of 3 pin like the stops). I can re-wire the Solidoodle Z probe to match the Duet Z probe 4 pin connector, but it's worth mentioning that there's a difference there. I think I have to go this route to include the 7.45mm offset in the config files (or whatever it ends up being after the carriage re-design).

That's all for now!

Regards,
ESOCHI

The new hotend/extruder is not going to solve your ghosting. If that is a concern then you should address it first. Again the only way you are going to be able to fix it is by making the machine as a whole more rigid. Use 10mm rods in place of all 8mm rods. The distance between rod ends on that machine is really too much for 8mm rods. But then again you have people like Heartless who is our seasoned SD veteran and she loves her machines. So it is possible to get these machines to work and work well enough to run a business with.

Also for the record the correct term for the issue you are referring to is Ringing, not ghosting. It's caused by the movement structure in the machine resonating at the frequency of the last print head movement after it came off of a corner or edge. Think of it like a chain swinging after it is bumped. It does this because it is moving too fast or the the weight is too much for the rods to support or both. It could also be caused by something that is loose that is allowing this ringing.

Ah, but here is the rub.. mine are SD4s.. not workbench, so there is a big difference there in distances.
I would have to agree with upgrading to the 10mm rods for increased stiffness on the X & Y axis.
I do NOT recommend the carbon fiber rods at all (except for use in the thing below) - Hardened steel for X & Y

Also make sure the bed is as rigid as possible - side to side.. does the workbench use the same cantilever bed design as the older machines? if so, there is bound to be a bit of play/slop at the front - put a stop to it. I use this for stabilizing the bed front on my SD4s - you could, in theory, also use it with a longer rod...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195266

Rigidity is the name of the game here. The more rigid you can make the structure, the better your results will be.

as for the print speeds, yes, those are a bit on the "stupid slow" side. I run my SD4s at 40mm/s print speeds for the most part - any more than that and the ringing does get a bit out of hand. you should, in theory, be able to run the same without major issue.