I'm not trying to be difficult, I just want to understand fully what the issues are so maybe I can find some possible solutions that don't require a lot of trial and error like drilling a new nozzle then hoping I can find a temperature that will give me 1.75mm filament.  Could finding a more powerful motor than the GF45 be an answer?  It seems we already might not be using the GF45 at it's full potential limiting it to 1.6A.  Maybe a stronger power supply so the GF45 can run with a little higher current?  Maybe better cooling as the PETG exits the nozzle?

The Filastruder was designed to be the best filament extruder possible at the $300 price point. Just like anything else, some compromises had to be made. To be honest, when the Filastruder first came out, I don't think PETG filament was even a thing yet.

As for your questions, simply replacing the motor won't do though, as the whole machine was designed as a unit - The barrel's strength is matched to the motor's available torque, the power supply is matched to the heater and motor power draw.

IMHO the filasruder was developed as an inexpensive  affordable hobby level kit that allows for home extruding.
As such it was designed to extrude ABS. It will extrude other filaments with a few mods and some experimentation.

Tim feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

If you want a more capable machine that has had a lot more R $D put into it one needs to pay.
the filabot goes for cost to $3000 usd  a full setup will run about $4600 usd

Also tim here is good with advise on mods and setups for a particular plastic.

I don't want Brucehvn thinking he can buy a more expensive machine and not have to deal with settings though.  Usually the more expensive the machine the MORE experimentation required to find all the proper settings - eg with an EX6 setup you'd have to adjust 4 temperature zones, a motor speed setting, a fan speed setting, a puller/traction speed setting, and nozzle size.

To try to extrude filament, involves settings, and the best you can do is take somebody else's settings and then adjust from there (like Murph's 205C with a 2mm nozzle, you start there, then adjust for things like ambient temperature, drop distance, etc. that are different from your setup and his).  The good thing is unless you are wildly off usually you can still use the filament produced until you dial everything in - just tell your slicer what diameter the filament actually is instead of 1.75mm.

Tim feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

If you want a more capable machine that has had a lot more R $D put into it one needs to pay.
the filabot goes for cost to $3000 usd  a full setup will run about $4600 usd

Also tim here is good with advise on mods and setups for a particular plastic.

The reason I ask is because if you are using a 2.0 or 2.2mm nozzle to get 1.75mm filament, that's a huge amount of shrinking.  That's about a 12.5%+ reduction.

I guess that begs the followup question...  Do people see this kind of shrinkage when printing with PETG?  We're usually printing PETG at anywhere from 230-265C, so that would mean I would never get a true .4mm line from my .4mm nozzle, but rather .35mm or less. According to the MatterHackers website:

I'm not trying to be difficult, I just want to understand fully what the issues are so maybe I can find some possible solutions that don't require a lot of trial and error like drilling a new nozzle then hoping I can find a temperature that will give me 1.75mm filament.  Could finding a more powerful motor than the GF45 be an answer?  It seems we already might not be using the GF45 at it's full potential limiting it to 1.6A.  Maybe a stronger power supply so the GF45 can run with a little higher current?  Maybe better cooling as the PETG exits the nozzle?

Ok, I'm a little bit confused.  I purchased a filastruder a couple years ago (2.1d SN 3175) but just got around to putting it together recently and ran the first abs through it to clear it out.  My goal was to use it for creating PETG and bought some of the estar 6763 pellets from filastruder.com in anticipation.

Now after reading some of the posts here, am I reading right, that I can't extrude PETG pellets without modifying my unit?  People are talking about using custom nozzle sizes of 2.0, or 2.2mm in order to get 1.75mm filament?  I thought that's why I have a 1.75mm nozzle was to produce 1.75mm filament.  It seems like if it's shrinking that much maybe the temperature is too high and when it comes out, it's stretching due to it's own weight and being too molten.  Maybe better cooling as it exits the nozzle and a lower extrusion temperature?

Has anyone actually had success with PETG using a non customized filastruder?

PETG at lower temperatures can really require a lot of torque from the motor, so people run it at higher temperatures.  The default nozzle is actually 1.6mm because with ABS it can expand a bit after it comes out so the size of the nozzle is geared towards getting you 1.75mm with ABS.

Now after reading some of the posts here, am I reading right, that I can't extrude PETG pellets without modifying my unit?  People are talking about using custom nozzle sizes of 2.0, or 2.2mm in order to get 1.75mm filament?  I thought that's why I have a 1.75mm nozzle was to produce 1.75mm filament.  It seems like if it's shrinking that much maybe the temperature is too high and when it comes out, it's stretching due to it's own weight and being too molten.  Maybe better cooling as it exits the nozzle and a lower extrusion temperature?

Has anyone actually had success with PETG using a non customized filastruder?

I fitted a new nozzle (cheap 2 buck pipe end from ebay) drilled it out to 2.0mm and ran at 205c.

The beauty of PETG is it extrudes quickly so you get a full roll in no time.