https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:802653

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:709811

Not sure what problem you are describing, can you be more specific what the case means? or picture of your pot?

Second question.. I’ve done 2 pids for my hot end and it’s still 10 degrees off what can I do

DRV8825 drivers suffer from skip steps and salmon skin which can be improved by tl-smoother, it have been controversy whether it works and why it works. Read more on internet and youtube and make your own decisions. I found it improves print quality only when you fix everything else, that says, loosing belt and vibrating motor/frame contribute more to bad print quality and you should get all these issue sort out first.

I am adding it to all my printers, I order from aliexpress to reduce cost because I have many printers, it is available from Amazon too which ships a lot faster.

https://www.amazon.com/ARQQ-Smoother-Pa … -Smoothers

Since you are using 8825 drivers they are controlled by the pot that is on them. The setting in the config.txt is ignored since they do not have SPI support like my Bigfoot Drivers.

So use a host that allows you to jog each axis. Only do one at a time to avoid confusion. Using a non-conductive screwdriver back the pot off a quarter turn and confirm if the axis will still move. Repeat until the axis will just buzz and not move. Once that point is reached turn the pot up a quarter turn. The confirm the axis moves. If it does then leave it and move to the next. Once all three are done try a test print and confirm that all three axis can complete the print. If one or more seem to bind then bump the current up another quarter turn.

try lower motor current, motor driver current too high can cause more vibration. I also found tl-smoother greatly reduce ghosting, but you need to fix all other problems before you can see the difference. I think motor damper may also help, but I just got them and have not seriously compared the difference yet.

sometimes hotend fan can also contribute to this vibration if fan blade is not balanced. use wrong lubrication can also contribute to it.

How do I know how much to drop motor current down to? Just tinker with it? I can’t find much info on TL-Smoothers but I’m interested in adding that on

sometimes hotend fan can also contribute to this vibration if fan blade is not balanced. use wrong lubrication can also contribute to it.

You would change it in your slicer.  As in print slower. Those are max settings as in a slicer setting will never exceed those. But you have settings in the slicer set too high for your hardware.

I have all of my print speeds down to 20mm/s. They’ve been at that for a long time and I still am having ghosting. Is there settings somewhere else I’m missing

Would I just change max speed to a lower number under each axis?

Or would I change acceleration and z acceleration under planner module config

I check height at the corners and sides, and the head is always too low in the center -- which seems to me is a problem with the bed not being flat. So after I set the corners and sides, I move the head to the center (where it drags) and loosen the sides and corners by 1/4 turn on each nut. I'm not happy with that, but it works, and most of my prints are smaller and on-center anyhow. Putting 1/8" glass over the bed flattened it somewhat, so next time I get glass I'm going to 1/4".

Yeah I’ve noticed that with my glass also.. I replaced the entire print bed in a previous thread.. can’t believe the glass is differnt in the center, same deal with me though I usually print smaller parts so I’m effected by the center being off or to tight like you said. My glass is only 3mm thick that might be my issue. I used a mk3 220mm x 220mm Borosilicate Glass and MK3 Aluminum Heated Bed DIY bundle kit off amazon that came from a company called GO-3D Print in California, thought it would have better glass in the kit or Atleast flat.

1 or two of these maybe

What are these called and where do you find them