SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (2n2r5) — Mon, 24 Jun 2013 00:56:52 +0000

MolecularConcept wrote:

I haven't even printed anything yet and I'm already thinking about upgrading to the Azteeg x3... I'd like to add some LEDs and upgrade the bed.. there's not much you can do with the stock board, even the new one

That's not completely true. There are spare pins that you can use and if you upgrade the Chip from an ATmega644P to a ATmega1280 you can use a display and a bunch of other things. The sanguinololu isn't completely useless and neither is the printrboard. I suggest running your stock board for a while first then figuring out why you want to upgrade. You might find that you are happy with what you have.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (MolecularConcept) — Sun, 23 Jun 2013 17:33:34 +0000

I haven't even printed anything yet and I'm already thinking about upgrading to the Azteeg x3... I'd like to add some LEDs and upgrade the bed.. there's not much you can do with the stock board, even the new one

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (lawsy) — Sun, 23 Jun 2013 12:06:30 +0000

Yes and yes.

I have since upgraded to RAMPS 1.4 and an even more powerful supply.

I'm thinking about using the original parts for other projects.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (digiprint) — Sun, 23 Jun 2013 11:55:05 +0000

lawsy wrote:

Upgraded terminals:
Plugs:
Let me know if you have any other questions.

So you switched from the original screw-terminal of the original power supply to your parts?
And you only changed the original power supply to the GS220A12?

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (wire10ga) — Wed, 20 Feb 2013 18:08:51 +0000

Thanks!

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (lawsy) — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 20:06:36 +0000

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as … ATID=991#1

and

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as … ATID=991#1

and

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HM3130

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (wire10ga) — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 14:10:11 +0000

lawsy,
Can you list the part numbers you got for the better connectors? I want to add this mod and like how you have it done.
Thanks

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (lawsy) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 07:21:16 +0000

KD wrote:

Question for Lawsy. The jumpers mentioned in your post. Did you add the jumpers between the adjacent +12V and -V pads for the bed connector? Want to be sure before doing it.

Just got some glass, and at the moment I'm still finalising my setup by designing and printing mirror holding clips, but some of my pictures for my upcoming guide are ready:

Jumper leads:

Upgraded terminals:

Plugs:

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (ronsii) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 06:42:15 +0000

I see well then that ought to work pretty good, should heat up quicker with both being powered

I will probably be doing some sort of heated bed mod also, just haven't decided what as of yet... plus I have a bunch of other projects going on all of the time too.(spend way too much on RC aircraft )

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (caswal) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 06:33:15 +0000

It is one of those universal supplies, that you put different plugs on the end of the cable, and select the correct voltage for your laptop. So it is more of an adaptor than a power supply. It has no other voltage feeds (apart from an optional USB power port).

Also had the realisation, that this setup allows to run both the stock heater, and this new heater at the same time if I crazily desire.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (ronsii) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 06:26:39 +0000

Sounds about right Caswal one thing you may want to try is setup the laptop supply you have with a test load and see how well it performs with only one set of taps being loaded (24v) just to make sure it will work without needing a load on the 12 or 5v sides and also to make sure it will sustain a draw of the planned wattage. If if doesn't like only having the 24v drawn sometimes you can put just a menial load on the other taps like a LED with a limiting resistor on it.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (caswal) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 05:45:05 +0000

I've been pondering about how I am going to go about building Dan's nichrome wire heat bed setup. Basically my own ghetto silicone heat mat on the cheap, and for fun. I know the silicone matt is cheap, but I don't have a spare power supply with quite that much current sitting around, and the parts to build my own will be about $20-$30, as I have most other things lying around.

My current plan is:

I have a sheet of this on order, to create my own silicone "bread" for the nichrome wire sandwich. I have a spare universal power supply for a laptop, that can supply 100 watts (5amp max) at various voltages. To get near my full 100 watts, I will have to run it near it's highest setting at 20v. So the math says I need 4 ohm's of resistance in my nichrome heater wire circuit. I may do 24v and lower current, as that is the highest setting the power supply can do, and lower current is always nicer.

I am then going to make a simple circuit board, using an IRF1405 N-Channel Mosfet (55V, 169 amp used in automotive applications), to do the switching for me, and have it's own pins from the laptop psu. Link the grounds of both PSU's together, and using a couple of high (I am thinking 6k ohm) resistors to make a voltage divider circuit taking the output from the stock mosfet to control the new mosfet, and reducing the current flow through the stock mostfet down into the mA.

My plan is that final heat mat should be very thin, around 1mm thick, have it placed between the glass and the original alu bed like a shim, and use the stock thermistor.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (KD) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 05:05:01 +0000

Question for Lawsy. The jumpers mentioned in your post. Did you add the jumpers between the adjacent +12V and -V pads for the bed connector? Want to be sure before doing it.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (nickythegreek) — Wed, 02 Jan 2013 15:27:25 +0000

I missed that MAKE reviewed the QU-BD mat on the 11th.

Re: silicon rubber heater bed -120 Deg celsius in 1 minute

null@example.com (jefferysanders) — Tue, 25 Dec 2012 00:32:22 +0000

"A word of caution on using solid state relays to control your bed heater. If they are SCR or TRIAC based (very likely) they are designed to handle AC current only, and once you turn them on, will not shut down if you are using DC current. In other words, as your controller turns them on, the heating element will begin to heat, and when it reachs temperature, and the controller tries to turn them off, they will continue to heat until power is removed from them." I was sold and bought a DC-DC SSR, I am not sure of its specific tech, but once I had it wired in correctly I haven't had a single problem. I would prefer the most simplified solution so...

I don't get close to 2 min heating times so, I will just do what Lawsy has done and use the on-board Mosfet for switching...It's a great idea to increase the capacity of those traces, I have seen it suggested several times on RepRap forums as well so it is a very good fix to a common issue.