knowack wrote:

I've gathered a little more information.  It's not a z-movement issue.

By observing the Print Status area of the browser interface, I can see that the Duet believes it's still on the first layer.  Z-axis is not moving at all, and the Current Layer Time continues to accrue, even though it should be on the third layer.

After playing in the g-code console, I've determined it has something to do with relative versus absolute positioning.  If the Z axis is against the end stop microswitch, it won't respond to position commands in absolute mode. If I send it the G91 command, then it will respond correctly.

I found the problem: a typo in the config.g file where I defined the bed size parameters.  I had essentially placed the print head 'out-of-bounds' when it was z-homed, so it wouldn't respond to absolute position commands.  Fixed!  Now I am printing a calibration cube. 

After I get it calibrated, I'll start playing with slicing for multiple extruders.  It's very gratifying to get this thing breathing fire!  The SD Workbench hardware and DuetWiFi electronics, along with the E3D Titan extruders and v6 hot ends are turning out to be quite a nice combination.

-Kevin

How did you happen to fix this?  I am having the same issue right now.  I have been able to fumble through the rest and have learned a great deal about my printer and all the programs that go along with this process.

I've done the initial setup on the Duet WiFi.  You're compelled to use the online configurator (https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org if you want to take a look) to generate the initial configuration files.  The web interface is easily navigable once you get used to it, and is reasonably replicated on the Panel Due display.  I even have Repieter-Host talking to the Duet WiFi through the USB port!  This is great for me, because it gives me the option of continuing my present workflow process with R-H, or migrating to a purely browser-based method.

The configurator is easy to navigate and covers a multitude of parameters, but not everything is explained well.  Some sidebar text, hyperlinks, or better use of tooltips would be very helpful.  The Wiki discusses gcode commands and such, but is more suited for direct editing of the .g configuration files (which you can do through the web interface). For me, this resulted in several visits to the configurator as I homed in on the correct settings.  Once I got the configuration close to right, I simply resorted to editing the .g files.  More on that in a minute.

Some examples are:
Motors - do I need them to run forward or backward?  Endstops - at low end or high end?  Are we talking physically, or numerically in a Cartesian sense?  Fans - thermostatic control of fans to monitored heaters...the error checking didn't like what I was proposing, but I think I finally muddled through.  I won't know for certain until I order the hot ends, etc.

After uploading the generated files, I connected one axis at a time, and began testing; making configuration changes as I went.  For example, the X and Y axes run forward, while the Z axis runs backward.  I had to refine my bed dimension settings, and assert that I want home to be the right rear of the printer, not the left rear. 

The configurator gives you endstop options of active high/low (normally closed/open) z-probe, or motor stall current.  After I had tinkered with X and Y to satisfaction, I connected Z.  The Z axis went rogue on me, and bulldozed its way through the Z limit switch before I was able to issue the STOP command. After a little Wiki reading of people with similar problem, it turns out that no matter what Z endstop options you select in the configurator, it is going to configure you for a Z-probe.  I had to manually edit three different .g config files to remove Z-probe behavior.  I have a replacement switch (plus two spares) ordered from PrintItIndustries.
!

Hello again, I just now have time to dive back into this project of mine.  I have one configurator ready to go in a zip file.  I just guessed at some of it.  Do you happen to have your latest configuration file?  If so could you send it to me?  I would really appreciate it.  Thank you so much.

I didn't see a spec sheet on those at that link, but I'd bet that those are a) not optically isolated, and b) possibly bipolar transistor rather than field-effect.

It's a shame, because it's a nice looking package and form-factor.  They would still probably work OK for lower current applications, but I would probably stay below 15A.

-Kevin

A heatsink and cooling is needed if using on the upper range of the amperage.
To me they are wasting a fair amount of wattage if one must use a heat sink and cooling fan.

https://folgertech.com/products/solid-s … v-24v-110v

knowack wrote:

badass_thumb wrote:

Thank you both for the information, Sorry I did not respond yesterday.  Been busy.  So I have been thinking about the startup current on my Workbench for the heat bed.  I do not want to burn up the Duet 2 Wifi.  It can handle 18 amps through the Heater bed connector but I was wondering what the stock heat bed on the Workbench pulls?  18 amp at 12 v is only 216 Watts now the Power supply is ratted at 320 watts.  Is it going to be ok?  Or should I convert to a 24v system?  Or should I get a SST Relay for the HeatBed?

Thank you
Jeff

If your state numbers are accurate, then your power supply should be okay.  I didn't keep the original heat bed, so I'm no help with what its power draw is at 12v.  I went with a more powerful 24v bed to ensure I could achieve higher temperatures to print some of the more exotic materials.

I personally am not a fan of the SSR method.  There is much discussion online regarding relay life when using PID mode and rapidly 'fluttering' the relay.  If employing bang-bang mode, there are concerns with warping the build plate, temperature fluctuations, and adverse effects on the power supply.  I personally have never tried an SSR.

-Kevin

An SSR or Solid State Relay is essentially an optically controlled transistor for DC or Triac for AC. There is no difference between it being turned off and on rapidly through Bang bang or PID control. It won't hurt the SSR any more than it will hurt the MOSFET/Transistor on the controller which is being used the exact same way but with a lower power rating.  With the SSR method you are simply using the controllers MOSFET to control the SSR instead of the bed.

The concern about the SSRs twofold: many are not actually opto-isolated (as determined by viewing their schematics/datasheets) although people assume they all are, and the effect of the repeated abrupt switching of max current on the life of the primary junction.  If the junction design of the cheap chinese components is not correct, it affects current handling and service life.  I also see that there are SSR designs that use bipolar transistors rather than field-effect transistors...not much better than using a 2N3055!

Use whatever works, just don't buy the cheapest ones.

-Kevin

badass_thumb wrote:

Thank you both for the information, Sorry I did not respond yesterday.  Been busy.  So I have been thinking about the startup current on my Workbench for the heat bed.  I do not want to burn up the Duet 2 Wifi.  It can handle 18 amps through the Heater bed connector but I was wondering what the stock heat bed on the Workbench pulls?  18 amp at 12 v is only 216 Watts now the Power supply is ratted at 320 watts.  Is it going to be ok?  Or should I convert to a 24v system?  Or should I get a SST Relay for the HeatBed?

Thank you
Jeff

If your state numbers are accurate, then your power supply should be okay.  I didn't keep the original heat bed, so I'm no help with what its power draw is at 12v.  I went with a more powerful 24v bed to ensure I could achieve higher temperatures to print some of the more exotic materials.

I personally am not a fan of the SSR method.  There is much discussion online regarding relay life when using PID mode and rapidly 'fluttering' the relay.  If employing bang-bang mode, there are concerns with warping the build plate, temperature fluctuations, and adverse effects on the power supply.  I personally have never tried an SSR.

-Kevin

An SSR or Solid State Relay is essentially an optically controlled transistor for DC or Triac for AC. There is no difference between it being turned off and on rapidly through Bang bang or PID control. It won't hurt the SSR any more than it will hurt the MOSFET/Transistor on the controller which is being used the exact same way but with a lower power rating.  With the SSR method you are simply using the controllers MOSFET to control the SSR instead of the bed.

Thank you both for the information, Sorry I did not respond yesterday.  Been busy.  So I have been thinking about the startup current on my Workbench for the heat bed.  I do not want to burn up the Duet 2 Wifi.  It can handle 18 amps through the Heater bed connector but I was wondering what the stock heat bed on the Workbench pulls?  18 amp at 12 v is only 216 Watts now the Power supply is ratted at 320 watts.  Is it going to be ok?  Or should I convert to a 24v system?  Or should I get a SST Relay for the HeatBed?

Thank you
Jeff

If your stated numbers are accurate, then your power supply should be okay.  I didn't keep the original heat bed, so I'm no help with what its power draw is at 12v.  I went with a more powerful 24v bed to ensure I could achieve higher temperatures to print some of the more exotic materials.

I personally am not a fan of the SSR method.  There is much discussion online regarding relay life when using PID mode and rapidly 'fluttering' the relay.  If employing bang-bang mode, there are concerns with warping the build plate, temperature fluctuations, and adverse effects on the power supply.  I personally have never tried an SSR.

-Kevin

Thank you
Jeff

badass_thumb wrote:

Ok I tried opening it but my computer does not like the bin file. Any tips or programs that I should use to open it?

Thank you
Jeff

You can't open the BIN file. It has to be flashed to controller using whatever utility suites the processor on the controller.

It appears that Bossac is probably the utility needed..

https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/paneldue/

Exactly!  You need to go to the Duet Wiki for the procedure to load the firmware onto the PanelDue.  You need to learn it anyway; they will sometimes need to be flashed before initial operation, and if you accidentally do a hard reset, it will erase the firmware.  Regardless, it's not difficult and the instructions are pretty good.

-Kevin