As to the power supply issue I have been using Dell Poweredge 2950 Server power supplies with little to no issue. Currently I have 200x200 plate mounted to a 300x300 piece of glass. I then used aluminum tape to help the heat spread across the glass. This has worked great for me over the past year or so on two of my home-built printers.

Seriously, Carl? That response is just rude. You have NO idea what megatron has for a power supply aside from what info was given... it may not be a cheap version. Please don't put other people's equipment down unless you know all of the details.

30 amp power supplies are quite common and there is nothing wrong with using them. I use them on my printers just fine and I run primarily ABS, which means bed temps in the 90-100C range and hotend temps in the 235-240C range.

the issues are actually pretty simple:

1. need to up the output voltage a little. putting out 12v at idle (no draw) is not enough - under a heating load it will not maintain that 12v.. need to adjust it up to 13.5-14v at idle.

2. ganging the bed power feed across 2 of the PSU terminals will help stabilize the output voltage to the bed. Bed heaters draw a lot of juice.

I repair supplies more exactly Rectifiers for a living. But they are essentially power supplies. Those 12 volt and ground connections are already common bussed inside the unit. They just five you multiple taps to make attaching multiple wires easy. If you don't believe me remove power and do an ohm check. He said one of those LED supplies. If it is specified by the seller as one of those then it is not a good brand like Meanwell and others. It is a Chinese clone and I have never seen a Chinese clone that can do it's rated idle voltage, much less under load. I have also never seen one that can do it's rated current either. I bought one to power my UV curing oven. It was rated at 30 amps just like this one but when I took it to work and put it on a controlled variable load. It could not do more than 15 amps. So if you have some then keep them as they are golden. But speaking from experience and exposure to a slew of Chinese supplies of this type I am pretty certain his power supply is out of spec. That's why i suggested a higher current to compensate for the low known output of Chinese supplies. You buy a 40, 50 amp supply and you might get a full 30 then. Not trying to argue, just stating experience which is based on volume of exposure to 50+ a week of these types of supplies all Chinese when I was doing game repair before my current rectifier repair job.

30 amp power supplies are quite common and there is nothing wrong with using them. I use them on my printers just fine and I run primarily ABS, which means bed temps in the 90-100C range and hotend temps in the 235-240C range.

the issues are actually pretty simple:

1. need to up the output voltage a little. putting out 12v at idle (no draw) is not enough - under a heating load it will not maintain that 12v.. need to adjust it up to 13.5-14v at idle.

2. ganging the bed power feed across 2 of the PSU terminals will help stabilize the output voltage to the bed. Bed heaters draw a lot of juice.

For the sake of brevity, my main machine is an Ultimaker with a RAMPS 1.4 controller, running off of a 12v 30amp LED Strip style PSU.

I've recently installed the heated build plate, checked all connections, made sure the solder was good and clean on the pads to connect the heater, but with my Power Supply it takes about 15 - 20 minuets to heat up to 50c, but going over that is a no go.

Then the recent problem of power just dropping to either heaters causes the machine to stop while printing and go into thermal runaway. I've tested the PSU and it does put out the 12v 30amps, so what else could be the cause? I've switched out RAMPS boards a few times now, as well as Arduinos just to cover my basis.