Sorry, I meant to say that I set the printer extrude temperature to 245C for PETG (I corrected it above). 
Yes, the tripod can be tilted 90 degrees so the filistruder can operate vertically.  I prefer that the extruder be horizontal though because I don't have a filawinder and because I get more consistent diameter with the extruder horizontal.   

I noticed from your picture that you have the washers to keep the filament in the middle.  Look at my picture above showing the brass bar.  It is long enough so I don't have to put washers to keep the filament from falling off.  Also, I added another brass rod below to prevent the filament from moving too much left and right on the first brass rod.

eric.. was wondering you able to angle extruder , with you mounting on a tri-pod?... my next test when I can do it safely.  get a 20 deg! after that am, hanging it from the ceiling haven't decided rope or hook  

that right 45C not used  PETG myself but am stunned it could be extruded at that temp.

I noticed that North and South were 1.85 mm and East and West were 1.65 mm consistently.

you know why.. resistance is futile!!! "couldnt resist"
if i looked at the filastruder  the front and rear of the coil has a much easier travel and stretch a tad where, as left and right meets resistance and slower down turn in the coiling which leads to observed variation in diameter," I know for the past week i've been extruding  pla  with 1.48-1.58 difference with burp of 1.61 at times but it feeds just fine through a titan extruder.

I just discovered over the last 3 days that the hole needs to be drilled at the center of the nozzle. When the hole is away from the center then the plastic shears the drilled hole and creates filament that is elliptical shaped.  I discovered this when I measured the diameter of the coiled up filament on the ground at North, West, East, and South locations.  I noticed that North and South were 1.85 mm and East and West were 1.65 mm consistently.  I thought it was because of the way the filament bent over the brass rod at the extruder exit.  Then one time I accidentally twisted the calipers while measuring the filament and discovered the elliptical shape.  Also, the PETG filament had a hazy look when it is supposed to be transparent.  This too is because of the shearing action.  So I went back to the nozzle hole at the center of the nozzle and the elliptical shape is all but gone and the color is transparent.  I don't have the pig tail issue either (which is why I switched to the offset nozzle in the first place) because I now use the brass rod and the PETG filament doesn't stick to it like the Teflon tube.  This has all be a great learning experience and I believe it rivals a post graduate class I started last Winter but that class was way more expensive!

The PTFE tube was replace with a 1/8 inch diameter brass rod to prevent snags that cause filament to pile up on top of the exit fan.  It appears that the hot PETG filament sticks to the PTFE but not the brass.  The brass rod is hot glued as shown in the image.  The top of the rod needs to be long enough (and have a clean surface - all hot glue scraped off) for the filament to travel back and forth as it coils up on the ground.  Also the Filastruder height above the ground had to be lowered to 3 feet because the weight of the coiling filament can stretch the exiting filament more easily now that there is no sticking to the exit rod.   A full, 2 liter bottle of PETG filament was extruded in about 5 hours with no problems. 

The closeup picture shows some bridging errors but there were practically no supports in this print!  The only supports were at the very bottom to keep the ball from toppling.

Here are the settings:

Builder:  Craftware
Extruder Temperature: 245 C  (I originally put 45C - sorry for my mistake)
Filament Diameter: 1.75 mm
Extruder Adjust: 90%
Extrusion Width: 0.5 mm
Layer Height: 0.4 mm
Draw Speed: 60mm/s

The extruder height is 57 inches (see picture),  the temperature is set to 212 C, the extruder cooling fan is about 25% overlapped by the insulation (see picture), the current hovers at around 1.6 amps, the extruder nozzle hole was drilled with a 1.78 mm drill bit (9/128 inch bit I think). 

The extruded filament diameter averages 1.75 +- .05 mm.  The most sensitive setting with this new offset-nozzle is the length between the nozzle hole and the Teflon tubing.  Increasing the length increases filament diameter and decreasing the length decreases filament diameter.
The filament temperature and Filastruder height didn't affect filament diameter so much.   

I was randomly getting pigtails out out of the nozzle which piled up on top of the filament cooling fan and spoiled the extrude.  This happened even though the Filastruder was over 5 feet above the floor.  I had an idea buy a new nozzle from Lowes and drill the nozzle hole off center to avoid the vortex of melted PETG created by the turning auger that surely must be at the center of the nozzle.  The image shows the new location of the hole.  Now the filament comes out slightly bent or sheared by the circular flow in the chamber but not pig tailed.  It is still necessary to create tension on the extruded filament by elevating the Filastruder (57 inches in this case but 4 feet works fine).  I extruded 0.75 Kg without any issues.   

Next I will test printing with the extruded PETG.

Nice setup, glad to hear you're rolling again.

I made a few modifications to my setup as can be seen in the pictures below.  I bought a brass square head pipe plug and drilled a 1.78 mm hole through it and inserted the filter screen locked it in place with the lock washer.  I also mounted the Filastruder on a camera tripod by drilling and threading a 1/4 inch hole in the bottom of the Fillastruder chassis where I can screw in the tripod adapter.  Finally, I added another PTFE tube for the filament to drape over because I read that it helps control the filament diameter by isolating the filament exiting the nozzle from the coiling movements below.  Oh, and I moved the fan farther away from the nozzle to cool off the filament faster.  For 2 hours there was no ramen noodle exiting the nozzle so it looks like it is a good setup.  The tripod puts the nozzle exit about 4 feet above the ground.  The tripod also allows me to quickly put the Filastruder vertical but so far, I think the horizontal orientation is working great.

You're using nominal motor output power, but this is not constant with regard to speed. As a DC motor approaches 0 RPM, efficiency goes down and torque goes up. The motor's electrical power is constant if voltage and current are constant, but the motor's mechanical power changes as a function of speed. At zero RPM, mechanical power is zero as speed is zero. As a result, an electric motor's efficiency is zero at zero RPM. Here's a motor's efficiency curve:

Also at 72N-m all of the gears in the gearbox would shred themselves instantly. 72Nm is in the realm of a small car engine's torque output.

Yes, I agree that the torque at both ends of the barrel are equal (no angular acceleration) even though the barrel is turning.

But....
(Not including the motor efficiency in the input power calculation)
torque = power / angular velocity
power is 12 V x 1.5 amp = 18 Watts
angular velocity is about 14 rpm = 1.47 rad/sec

so torque = 18 Watts / 1.47 rad/sec =  12.24 Newton-meters.
With a 3 amp current (same angular velocity) the torque is 24.24 Newton-meters.
If the auger gets stuck and the angular velocity goes down to 0.5 rad/sec then wouldn't the torque go up to 72 Newton-meter

since torque = (12V x 3 amp) / 0.5 rad/sec = 72 Newton-meter?

I know I must be oversimplifying because if angular velocity goes to zero then the torque would be infinity which isn't true.

But if the auger barrel was able to turn still then the angular velocity of the barrel relative to the flange wouldn't decrease so suddenly - at least until the barrel pipe tightened to the flange.