SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — sd2 z axis leadscrew

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (heartless) — Fri, 31 Mar 2017 11:55:08 +0000

widespreaddeadhead wrote:

Good ole Sang!

yay! makes things much easier, LOL

so yeah, if you cant dial out the moire on your current stepper driver, look into getting an 8825 - you would need to double the steps/mm in the firmware so it runs correctly, but that is pretty easily done.

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (widespreaddeadhead) — Fri, 31 Mar 2017 01:41:12 +0000

Good ole Sang!

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (heartless) — Fri, 31 Mar 2017 00:27:01 +0000

at the very least it should be reduced... if you cant eliminate it all together, then upgrading to an 8825 stepper driver with 1/32 microstepping should solve the issue...

but that begs the question - what controller board do you have?

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (widespreaddeadhead) — Thu, 30 Mar 2017 16:31:44 +0000

Would fine tuning the voltage eliminate or reduce it? I was doing some searching through the old posts this morning and there was a lot of chatter about replacing the stock 1.8 motor or upgrading the driver to 1/32...

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (widespreaddeadhead) — Wed, 29 Mar 2017 19:21:13 +0000

Thanks heartless! I'll work on that tonight.

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (heartless) — Wed, 29 Mar 2017 18:58:47 +0000

aside from the moire (different issue) that looks pretty good.

need to fine tune the voltage for your extruder motor to get rid of the moire

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (widespreaddeadhead) — Wed, 29 Mar 2017 17:04:48 +0000

Thanks for your input rickq, I never actually ran any prints because I wanted to solve the issue first. Anyway, I finally ran some test prints and everything prints just fine. No noticeable wobble in the prints, although there is a little ringing. I was using translucent PETG. Will try with a solid color tonight and reports any issues if they arise.

Thanks!

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (rickq) — Sat, 25 Mar 2017 00:23:34 +0000

A 2 start lead screw would exhibit even less vertical deviation for your suspected cause of whatever problem you have.

So, yes, you are stubborn.

Good luck to you sir.

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (widespreaddeadhead) — Fri, 24 Mar 2017 16:37:02 +0000

Hey rickq, thanks for your interest and let me fill in some info.

The leadscrews I got first, which the description didn't mention, are 2 start T8.

As long as I don't apply Z-hop or add auto-leveling it'll probably work just fine, but I'm kind of stubborn and want to to work correctly.

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (rickq) — Fri, 24 Mar 2017 16:27:33 +0000

0.1mm lateral play in a T8 4 start screw (ACME threadform, 29° included angle) is only a vertical play of 0.026mm (0.0011"). And the bed is biased by gravity so it ends up in the right place regardless.

I can't imagine you will notice any printing artifact due solely to this clearance. Are you having print quality issues? Is the banding still too much for you?

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (widespreaddeadhead) — Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:16:32 +0000

heartless wrote:

maybe this type of coupling would be a better idea?
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachmen … 1389524157

I'll try this next, even with the anti-backlash nut there is about 0.1mm of horizontal play in the nuts so when the Z axis changes direction, it has to make that up. If this doesn't work I'm just going to get a new screw and nut.

Thanks and onward!

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (heartless) — Thu, 09 Mar 2017 19:00:43 +0000

maybe this type of coupling would be a better idea?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachmen … 1389524157

Re: sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (rickq) — Wed, 08 Mar 2017 16:57:54 +0000

The $8 anti backlash nut will most likely solve that issue. And from where you are now the easiest fix.

4 start lead screws are fast (44% faster than the 5/16-18 all thread) and as such they are less discrete (fewer steps to move any given distance). Easy for any fit issues to cause errors.

I went too far the other way years ago with an M3 all thread Z axis on my SD3. Super accurate and consistent, but REALLY SLOW. Went with an M4 all thread on a later hack on a different printer. I think that is a good compromise, but still a bit slow.

sd2 z axis leadscrew

null@example.com (widespreaddeadhead) — Tue, 07 Mar 2017 20:12:39 +0000

First all I want to thank everyone for the wealth of information here! I couldn't have gotten this far without the help I received from the forum. Every piece of information I needed I was able to find with the forum search and google!

I picked up a SD2 a month or two back to refurb and because I want to enclose it to print ABS. Thanks to the information I found I added a fan to the X motor, swapped over to lawsy's carriages, applied the direct Y fix, and swapped to an e3d v6. Print quality was really good, but the banding was annoying. I researched as much as I could about swapping the 5/16 rod, and ultimately decided to swap it with a t8 leadscrew, mainly because I've had great experience with them on other printers.

The problem I'm having now is that when the Z changes direction, the nut has a little bit of give on the sides, and the screw wants to move that direction first, then move up or down like its supposed to.

Should I try to replaced the nut with a better quality one? Would an anti-backlash nut(https://folgertech.com/products/anti-backlash-nut-for-t8-4-start-lead-screw) fix this issue?

Thanks!!