SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Super Brim

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (carl_m1968) — Fri, 10 Mar 2017 20:04:04 +0000

A brim is normally cut from the print using an xacto or similar knife. The other option is to sand it flush to the object. It should never cleanly detach from the print. This is condidered part of post processing. Prints should rarely be considered ready to use from the printer.

My point was if your bed is adjusted correctly and you use glass and hairspray you should hardly ever need to use a brim.

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (pap4tinker) — Fri, 10 Mar 2017 18:17:52 +0000

I don't think I've conveyed my problem correctly. It's not a problem of being stuck to the bed, but easily removing it from the object.

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (carl_m1968) — Fri, 10 Mar 2017 11:34:09 +0000

Well I print 11mm cylinders with no brim all the time. I just use glass and hairspray. But I also only use PETG which behaves differently.

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (AZERATE) — Fri, 10 Mar 2017 00:50:36 +0000

+1 to heartless

A brim is also useful for very large and dense prints for a larger footprint.
But if you let your glass cool all the way and sometimes an extra 30min then you may find it will just slide off like heartless stated. I recently had a few parts printing that I shut off mid print for maintenance reasons, and when I worked on the machine the next day the two layer parts literally slid off. This is a machine I constantly have to use a scraper to remove, or let it fully cool.

On the topic of a razor scraper, always wear gloves. I've cut myself many times, once requiring stitches (very recent). Be safe and patien whichever method you choose.

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (heartless) — Thu, 09 Mar 2017 18:47:16 +0000

carl_m1968 wrote:

You should not have to use a brim if your adhesion is thst good as well.

it really does depend on the part being printed. If it has a small/thin footprint, it is more likely to break free during printing. A brim is a useful tool for things like this.

@ pap4 - are you letting the print bed cool completely? i find that my stuff will fall off if I let it cool completely
otherwise, a single edge razor scraper works really well

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (pap4tinker) — Thu, 09 Mar 2017 02:42:56 +0000

Well, I am using a glass plate and sometimes with miniature things, a brim helps out a lot! Thanks for the info on the height, I had not heard that before. Always just used a piece of paper to get close, then set a print to .30mm and checked all four corners of the print with a micrometer to spec it in to as close to .30mm on each corner as I can.

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (carl_m1968) — Sun, 05 Mar 2017 23:48:54 +0000

Your first layer should be the same as the rest slicer wise. You are supposed to calibrate your bed so that the height between the nozzle is half or less than the desired print layer height.

You should not have to use a brim if your adhesion is thst good as well.

Re: Super Brim

null@example.com (jagowilson) — Sun, 05 Mar 2017 23:10:43 +0000

Use a razor scraper like this to remove that sort of stuff easily.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-1-3-16 … /203743502

Super Brim

null@example.com (pap4tinker) — Thu, 02 Mar 2017 23:53:22 +0000

After I started printing on glass, I found the brim is super strong holding on. I wonder if this is because I changed my first layer setting to 0.25mm and therefore it's squishing into the part more? Perhaps I should change initial layer setting back up and see, but I thought I would see if anyone had this experience before I have to experiment myself. Besides, I'm in the middle of a longer print........