Is this design still out there?? Ii probably the best E3D v6 Mod that I have seen, I will love to give it a try!!

I have made the layer cooler smaller some people were concerned with collisions. Also, if the fan setting is not changed in configuration.h to re-purpose you might get thermistor decouple errors.

#define REPURPOSE_FAN_TO_COOL_EXTRUSIONS 1 //Setting this to 1 will repurpose the main Extruder cooling fan to be controlled VIA M106/M107

i just realize dyou are running a bowden setup this does not work with the direct drive da vinci 1.0 like i have

This is NOT a Bowden. This uses the stock motor and tensioner. I guess the pictures do not show the motor but I promise that it is there. If I went Bowden, I would not have sacrificed the extra 23.6mm.

R29 is 10K which is open on most other control boards. You don't have to do this but I wanted to use Table 8 in firmware which was made for the E3D thermsitor.

See this thread about removing R29
https://forum.voltivo.com/showthread.php?tid=8308

Part of this process I updated the firmware to Repetier 0.92.10 by LUC so I figured that I might as well use the correct thermistor table. I verified it with a thermocouple and its pretty dead on.

Prints NinjaFlex like a dream at 1600mm/min @ 265C

More pictures as requested:

Removed R29 so that table 8 in firmware can be used for the thermistor.

Bridged the mosfet pads  for the second extruder which the 1.0 doesn't have and installed a header for the E3D fan. The stock fan can be used for layer cooling now.

the fan shroud is required? i ran 12v for the e3d already. Some more pics of the setup inside would be awesome. I'm a bit confused by the fan duct vs layer cooling duct.

Im super excited this is exactly what i was looking for i kept thinking "man why is this so involved just to put a different hot end on " so thank you very much

I guess I should have listed my print settings.

Print Orientations:

My Settings

MAKE SURE WHEN YOU ARE DONE THAT YOU UPDATE YOUR Z OFFSET IN EEPROM (I used Repetier Host and my offset from Z home to the tip of the new hot end is 23.6mm).

Manually Level the bed AFTER setting the z offset and crank the screws down a couple turns to be safe.

I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH. DO NOT USE THE BED LEVELING FROM THE PRINTER MENU. IT WILL CRASH INTO THE BED.

I am looking into modifying the firmware to move z first when bed leveling. Manual Leveling in S3D works just fine but start with slow speeds and be prepared to kill the power if it is going to crash.

Im super excited this is exactly what i was looking for i kept thinking "man why is this so involved just to put a different hot end on " so thank you very much

Special Note:

The lower fan duct should be installed with the unit not clipped in place and before the heater cartridge is clamped in. The duct has a little cutout that aligns with part of the carriage. The fit is tight but when you have the parts it will make more sense.