Not sure why I was quoted 3 posts back; the chosen snippet as a whole doesn't make much sense on its own as a reply, and there was no response to it either.

(You were the 2nd post back n2ri; I was referring to jfdcvhjgvdfj's post)

and if you do this with say an 110 volt AC you get half the AC wave DC meaning 55 volts.

This is totally off topic, but a 110v AC source is 110 volts not from peak to peak, but from middle of the sine wave to 0.707 of peak. This image may be useful:

The voltage from 0 to peak of one half of the sine wave is 155v, since 110v refers to the RMS value of the wave.

If you feed 110v through a single diode, you will get 155v out of the other end, 60 times a second. The average value will be 49.51 volts.

Just don't want anyone to get hurt or damage anything.

https://wiki.analog.com/university/cour … /chapter-6

solvent method would be better for distributing the graphite to create the desired level of conductivity. More graphite may equal a higher conductivity, but it also makes the plastic more characteristic of graphite's other properties (such as being brittle). I'll start with the graphite ratio in the video, mixing it into ABS dissolved into acetone (as originally planned).

Graphite only carrys a reduced DC voltage due to its properties. working much like a Rectifier with resister regulator. its why its used in hot surface igniters as double duty also for flame proving by supplying AC voltage to heat igniter and once flame is lit it reads the DC current back feed through the Carbon in flame to ground. also carbon rods in stage spotlights or some welding mostly carry DC current even when AC is applied. and if you do this with say an 110 volt AC you get half the AC wave DC meaning 55 volts. same thing as using an 12 volt battery to operate a low voltage device that normaly uses 24 volt AC. like on a home Furnace Gas valve in long term power outage. just cant run blower so need other source airflow like powered by other means.

just saying if electric continuity is reason for use of Carbon, this must be considered.

• Direct 12v contact to the board's input=same power cycling (problem on the motor circuit)

• Removal of all wires at the board's input+12v contact=normal stall board and motor operation (problem at one of the disconnected wires)

• Tested one of the wire pairs=motor fan working (filament fan has a short)

I'm just glad that I made one last check before I actually purchased a new power supply.
I'll probably still get it, just to be safe. (18v 10A supply for $34; sounds fair to me!)

I ran my Filastruder again today, and after several attempts I almost had the strand to the Filawinder, when suddenly the power supply to the Filastruder cut off...

The unit was a 19v 6.3A supply that came with my dad's laptop (I used a female barrel connector so I wouldn't cut up his supply's cords). One would think it could handle the load, but apparently not. It felt hot when I tried to jiggle the 3-prong connector.

Unplugging the supply and replugging it after 3 seconds brought back power...until I started the motor again. The stall board is set to stock adjustments (per the manual), and the Filastruder itself is fine.

I just need to hunt around the house for a new (and stronger) power supply tomorrow.

A vibration motor may not actually be necessary. My Filastruder wouldn't feed because I forgot about the solid plastic all the way up the auger from the previous failure. Heat creep is incredibly unforgiving.

Mistake #2: When I was trying to clear plastic from the intake area, I turned the motor on/off to get all of the plastic, and I wondered if the motor was going the right direction. I checked the manual, and found that I had it backwards.

So now my Filastruder is successfully able to extrude the material I ground with the meat grinder, but since my Filawinder apparently needs more work, I can't do a full run just yet. Still, I feel accomplished in getting the main machine running; I just can't get truly consistent filament with my current setup (vertical, no Filawinder).