-Kevin

I Just got done installing a hale bed heater last week to reduce the heat up time also upgraded the print surface to 3/16 aluminum in about ten minutes.(now that i think about i shouldn't have 45ed the corners on) by not doing so would have given me the extra space to clip a glass plate to, with out really reducing print size. ill try & get some pictures up tomorrow.

you don't need to use clips to hold glass in place... use hairspray instead.

wet one side of the glass and set it in place on the bed, heat to about 60C, let cool, repeat the heat/cool cycle a couple of more times.
Glass should be firmly held in place

it is not hard to remove it either, should you need to - simply slide a putty knife between the glass and bed and slide it around to break the seal

You should upgrade to the hale bed by printitindustries

I Just got done installing a hale bed heater last week to reduce the heat up time also upgraded the print surface to 3/16 aluminum in about ten minutes.(now that i think about i shouldn't have 45ed the corners on) by not doing so would have given me the extra space to clip a glass plate to, with out really reducing print size. ill try & get some pictures up tomorrow.

These wheels need to be tightened with on hex screw driver and two wrench came with the printer at the same time. You need to hold the end hex nut with wrench and tighten it with hex screw driver first, most people did this step correctly. Then you need to tighten the middle long hex nut against the end hex nut with two wrench at the same time, this step is critical to make hotend/print bed stable. You need to do these on all wheels including hotend carriage, print bed, and z-axis. The one under x-axis carriage is most challenging if you don't remove the hotend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFGZ6AzxInw

Victor

Ok Iv followed as many tutorials and instructions as I could but am not sure if anything was updated. The following is the process I followed on my 3 year old SD3 with stock Sanguinololu(sanguino) v1.3. Since I assume it was flashed with the first factory firmaware I hope that anything other than my attempt to flash for the E3D and  Calidum HALE Heated Bed wont be affected.
I downloaded "Solidoodle-arduino-1.0.5-windows.zip", since it had "sanguino" in its hardware list I was able to select and use without using the "Sanguino-0101r1.zip". I opened adriuno loaded "Marlin.pde", set #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 5 // and #define BED_MAXTEMP 135 //. I then sketch verify/compile. No errors. I then saved, pressed the button on the sang board let go then uploaded from the adriuno. Seem to go ok but ends with "avrud: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0xd7". I don't know what is missing.
Does the solidoodle have to be on or off? Do I press and hold the button, or press and release? I see the led is lite but no flashing. Doe I press befre and after or just before? The header pins have a jumper on it by default so from what ive read this is ok.
My unknown is a "bootloader? Is this an extra program I am supposed to install? or does the arduino-1.0.5 include one.
Any advice would be helpful.
I can run the solidoodle but I noticed that using a  Infrared Thermometer the bed temp is 10deg higher than what repitier reads. I also have to calibrate the feed cause I getting lots of blobs on the vertical layers.
In the past with the original SD3 hotend and bed I was able to print nice parts. But since it melted after 3 years of service Im of course upgrading.
Any help would be appreciated

.

Victor

this is the problem i am having...

I am grateful for finding this blog because I have discovered a temporary solution that "Connor.Nation" indicates by replacing the plug that had burned up. and discovered a more permanent solution using a different heat bed the Calidum Hale heater by PrintIt Industries as suggested by "Heartless".

-Sam

#define MOTHERBOARD 62   ------------Sanguino
#define POWER_SUPPLY 1   ------------Supernight Power Supply
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 ------------E3D v6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 5--------- Calidum HALE Heated Bed

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 135

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {88,88,2268,110.5}

This was after noticing that my SD was extruding 125mm per 100m step.
Anything else I missed?
My infrared thermometer still shows 5deg less on bed with tape than repetier displays.
Thanks!

Whats confusing is all the terms that have to be understood.

Github, sketch, marlin etc. Should be a one step process, maybe two.

Cheers!

Thanks!
Victor

Make sure you have selected the correct board number 62 in the configuration.h

As for the reset button, don't hold it down.  Just a quick click before pressing upload should work.

If for some reason there is no bootloader on your board send me a PM but I doubt that is the case.  What serial number is your printer?