Thanks for the kind words and glad to hear you're happy.

FYI: I cleaned up the double post for you

Ooops - sorry about that... internet was being weird this morning.

and yes, I am very happy with the heat beds - they work extremely well and I can actually use the entire bed now, instead of trying to stay away from the outer 1 inch or so.

FYI: I cleaned up the double post for you

I had purchased a 2nd bed heater for my #2 SD4, but hadnt gotten around to installing it - until today... running the PID tune on it now to stabilize the temps, and it will be fully functional.

Using the stock aluminum bed this time, heat-up times are MUCH lower than on #1, with it's thicker bed.

Still loving this bed heater! printing all the way to the outer edge of the bed is no longer a challenge! prints stick the same there as they do in the middle.

Well done Guys! Thanks for a GREAT product!

Just an update on using the Mica heater - Still loving this thing! It works so well I have actually been able to lower the set point and still get excellent adhesion when printing ABS.

I used to set the bed to 100C with the old bed heater and would still occasionally have problems - with the Mica heat bed, I am currently running at 90C (with even faster heat up times) and actually thinking about lowering a little more. A very happy camper, I am. Well worth the investment.

+1

I too have found that I can actually run a lower bed temp: 10-15 degrees cooler, depending on the filament I use.  I didn't make any firmware changes for the thermistor, and didn't reinstall the fiberglass insulating blanket on the bottom.  The PrintIt heater also heats very evenly to the edges of the bed.  When I removed the original Solidoodle heater, I saw why I had problems with large builds!

-Kevin

I used to set the bed to 100C with the old bed heater and would still occasionally have problems - with the Mica heat bed, I am currently running at 90C (with even faster heat up times) and actually thinking about lowering a little more. A very happy camper, I am. Well worth the investment.

Now, just need one in a bigger size for my new toy... 12" x 12" please? hehe

Stock:

Printit:

One thing I did not realize right away was that the thermistor needs to be changed in the firmware for accurate temp reading - it uses table 5, just like the E3D hotends (stock uses table 1).

Can you tell me how you found it uses 5? looking at the specs "Thermistor Type: NTC 100 kOhm" I would think it would use table 8 " 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)"

I honestly have no idea how these work. I just noticed when I was updating the firmware that number 8 said 100k and NTC

the first larger print on it went pretty well - once I got the temp stabilized.

the piece is right at 6 in long, 3 in wide, and about 5/8 in tall - had tired printing a couple of times before and the narrow end kept warping and popping off the build plate. fairly sure the variation in bed temp had something to do with that...

actually ended up rotating it to point at the other front corner, and moved it back slightly to get it away from the door gap (& airflow)
Now that I have that one out of the way.... the rest of the order should go smoothly - smaller parts.

running right at the 10.5minute mark for time starting at about 24C to 100C (still no insulation under the bed) and I now have a nice, flat line - no more wobbles in the heat profile. yay!

I thought that bed PID was enabled, but after comparing lines between your screenshot, and my copy of the firmware, apparently it wasnt... =P
I will be correcting that little issue shortly (printer is currently running - for another hour & a half)

oy-vey... it is the little things that trip us up, LOL

The more stable the temperature is, the less warping trouble you will have. Changes as low as 0.5c can have a dramatic effect on part appearance and adhesion.

Note: There's a bug in Repetier Host where it always says "Past 60 Minutes" even if you use a different time scale. I showed my time scale in the image (10 minutes) to make this clear.