sandcub1971 wrote:

Well I decided not to mess around with using a relay off of my board. Instead I bought the setup in the link as it is a self contained unit with controller and all. And it runs 110VAC. It should be delivered today but I wont get a chance to install it until this weekend. Will let you know how it works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271835537775?_t … EBIDX%3AIT

Make sure you set your firmware and host to no heated bed installed if using an external controller. Orherwise it will be looking for a thermistor and fail.

Heres an update. I installed it and did not worry about changing my firmware. All I had to do was shut off the heated bed in my simplify3D software and BOOM works like a dream. As far as time to warm up, can you say less than 1 min to get to 110 bed temp. That's faster than my hotend . I will be ordering another heated pad for my larger bed. It just works perfectly.

Well I decided not to mess around with using a relay off of my board. Instead I bought the setup in the link as it is a self contained unit with controller and all. And it runs 110VAC. It should be delivered today but I wont get a chance to install it until this weekend. Will let you know how it works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271835537775?_t … EBIDX%3AIT

Make sure you set your firmware and host to no heated bed installed if using an external controller. Orherwise it will be looking for a thermistor and fail.

carl_m1968 wrote:

sandcub1971 wrote:

Thank you for your quick response. I did not know I could run the 110 with a relay controlled by the board. If you have a diagram I would be very grateful to see it. Hopefully I can start picking up stuff next month and get on to bigger and better prints.

Thanks

It's not pretty but it gets the idea across.. As Ward said this does use 120VAC so there is some risk so please be careful, add fuses, and make sure connections are well insulated. The output to the bed from the controller normally does not matter the polarity. But in this application you will need to know which out to the bed is positive and negative and connect them to the SSR accordingly.

Ok thank you for the diagram, The main thing I wanted to know is to put the relay on the positive or negative side of the circuit, but you covered that in your drawing. its on the negative side.

It does not really matter since with AC there is really no negative side..  But to be safe I would actually have the relay interrupt line side. That way there should be no power assuming correct household wiring at the heater when the relay is off.. Connect neutral straight through.

sandcub1971 wrote:

Thank you for your quick response. I did not know I could run the 110 with a relay controlled by the board. If you have a diagram I would be very grateful to see it. Hopefully I can start picking up stuff next month and get on to bigger and better prints.

Thanks

It's not pretty but it gets the idea across.. As Ward said this does use 120VAC so there is some risk so please be careful, add fuses, and make sure connections are well insulated. The output to the bed from the controller normally does not matter the polarity. But in this application you will need to know which out to the bed is positive and negative and connect them to the SSR accordingly.

Ok thank you for the diagram, The main thing I wanted to know is to put the relay on the positive or negative side of the circuit, but you covered that in your drawing. its on the negative side.

Thank you for your quick response. I did not know I could run the 110 with a relay controlled by the board. If you have a diagram I would be very grateful to see it. Hopefully I can start picking up stuff next month and get on to bigger and better prints.

Thanks

It's not pretty but it gets the idea across.. As Ward said this does use 120VAC so there is some risk so please be careful, add fuses, and make sure connections are well insulated. The output to the bed from the controller normally does not matter the polarity. But in this application you will need to know which out to the bed is positive and negative and connect them to the SSR accordingly.

Carl is right, that's how I run my bed heaters.  I'm sure there's a diagram floating around here somewhere.  But I may suggest that if you aren't certain about a mod like this, you maybe should proceed with extreme caution. 
The azteeg x3 is a good board as is the Rumba and both will do what you are looking for.  And although I am a huge fan of the X3 I think for this application the Rumba would be a better solution.  It simply has more options and they are similarly priced.  Makerfarm sells the Rumba.

So what is the advantage of the rumba over the x3. If I look both up it appears that the x3 can support up to 8 steppers( 3 extruders, 2 z, 1 x, 1 y and 1 more for something else) and dual heated beds, the rumba says 5 steppers? Or is it a case of easier to use?  I am not against any board at this time, just want to get as much info as I can on the advantages and disadvantages. Thanks Wardjr