FYI:  I was looking at some specialized water based goo (i cant remember name) someone was reviewing.  They "refreshed" the surface (got rid of the previous print's imprint in the "goo" by spraying a little water over it and letting it dry.  This seems to work with the gluestick as well.

(technically i was using my "kapton application fluid" ie, about 4 oz of water with the slightest smear of dishwashing detergent to minimize the beading on the glass.)

Kronikabuse wrote:

i use glass with glue stick. only apply it 1-2 a month and print every day. abs mainly

do you mind explaining the glue stick method a bit more?  I see a lot of people talking about it but few examples or discussions.

I assume you smear it on plain, uncoated glass.  Thick or thin?  Do you bake it on before printing(heat bed for so long,etc) ?

Also, i assume you still print with a heated bed?

Thanks

You just put s single coat that you get with each pass of the stick on bare cool glass.. Then start your print. The warming cycle will make the glue dry.. Then you should be good for several prints. If it stops sticking just apply another coat.. Once it begins to affect your first layer thickness from build up just clean with a wet cloth..

i use glass with glue stick. only apply it 1-2 a month and print every day. abs mainly

do you mind explaining the glue stick method a bit more?  I see a lot of people talking about it but few examples or discussions.

I assume you smear it on plain, uncoated glass.  Thick or thin?  Do you bake it on before printing(heat bed for so long,etc) ?

Also, i assume you still print with a heated bed?

Thanks

It didnt work out for me (used aquanet at 100C).  i got lifted corners on at least 50% of my prints and another 10% detached.   When my roll of kapton showed up, i started coating the glass with that and never looked back.

I started a thread elsewhere on here about if borosilcate glass vs plate glass.   i wonder if the expansion of the plate glass over multiple cycles just wiggled the tape until the adhesive failed.

this is a printer surface comparason, in my opinion the buildtalk it will do the trick.

https://3dprinterchat.com/2016/02/3d-pr … omparason/

I applied the tape about 2 yrs ago with a soapy(detergent technically) solution and got about 20-30 prints out of it so it wasn't a big deal.   This plate was near end of life anyway.   It was just weird that the print was stuck firmly to the tape but the tape pulled away from glass.

I'm guessing i used too much soap?

<also, i couldnt find a good place for post.  this isn't exactly asking for help. just curiosity. sorry if this is the wrong place>