I need to get the resolution down to at least same as SD2 0.05mm to be of any use.

Really ??

Here are the "precision" specs of the Soliddodle 2 Pro:

Precision:
• Able to print .4mm, .3mm, .2mm, .1mm

In case you want a refresher on the original specs of your printer, here is a snapshot of the Soliddole 2 Pro Specs page from Jul 2 2014:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140702124 … duct_id=56

ATLAS 3D has a max detail level of 0.25 mm, not 0.001 mm.

the out of focus camera wont see anything that small as anything but a wide blur. maybe after its been torn down and focused to proper Macro focal point which is anything less than 2-3 feet from lens. then yes I can see that. the "noise" I am seeing is well over 2.5mm which is a full decimal point thicker than that. my small models only vaguely resemble a ghostly fog of what the model is when scanned (and thats only due to color view on some models)in basic shape. most dont even show large parts like Wheels etc much less windows and door seams or grills etc.

just wish this had been reported before I bought one. its disappointing to learn after the fact. also some materials/components used in the kit are very poor quality like the power supply that refuses to stay plugged in and not loose connection most of the time within minutes of starting a scan. wasting my time with restarts. this is very frustrating since the Scanner has no battery backup or memory of scan that was interrupted. good power connection is imperative for operation of the device at all times. the push button power switch too has erratic connections at times.
photos of finished scans without color would likely have shown how little detail was actually captured.

kinda like some 3D file depositories I have searched through that have 3D color images of say a building but the STL file is only a rectangle box with no 3D details at all not even a doorway or windowsill. that is purposely misleading and not truly a 3D file. who buys a 3D printer to print bulk dimensional building materials available at a local lumber yard priced by the board foot?

those virtual 3D photo files are only for use by an architect for presentation apps on a screen in a board room meeting. not even a display model. and low poly 3D items have very little value in retail to support the cost of equipment used to 3D print same. only unique 1 off R&D/Prototype items or very fine detailed models near impossible to create using conventional methods without lots of tool & die work etc before hand like in mass production are mainly what 3D printing is proficient at.

I am good at micro detail work but afraid to mess with the camera getting glue off without ruining camera (popping it oc PCB) also have to disassemble partly to get camera back out of Atlas without ruining it also. but seems the only way to maybe achieve what I need to be able to scan tiny objects.

also need to see if I would be able to merge multi scans well enough that tiny with limited zoom. my eyes aint young anymore lol. those tiny wrinkle lines on my scans make a huge difference on misro size objects I print. I would say ATM the Atlas scanner resolution is at best down to 2mm (low poly) I need 0.001 min to be usable as high resolution as it states.

If you want to be able to do pretty much anything you can think of with an STL file try Blender.  It has a huge learning curve but worth it in the end in my opinion.  It is more flexible than any other free program that I have come across for working with STL files which is what you seem to like to work with.

If you want quick scanning structured light is the way to go but you are going to spend a lot more money if you go the kit route.

You do need to focus the camera, you will be surprised at the level of detail you can pick up with a focused camera.

also each setting I select to improve fine details doubles scan time. just the settings I posted above take a little over 2 hours. heck I would be better off taking measurements of the item, learn better how to make CAD file and design the item from scratch like one guy whos models I print off Thingaverse. he does it in his lunch hour. now I see why Azerate sold his.

I find Meshlab easy to scroll and move the object around in.  I even often place my view inside the object looking out while I'm cleaning stray noise from the scan.  Maybe it's because I am using a mouse.

Meshlab has an align tool built in for merging the scans. Pirvan did an excellent tutorial on how to merge scans. I learned everything I know about scanning from this forum, I knew nothing when I received my scanner. It was a gift.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/13039/al … -manually/

I didn't find any of these answers by searching, sometimes forum searches are difficult to use. This forum has less than 200 topics total. I went through them all and subscribed to the ones I though might be usefull. It's an hour spent that will save you many hours of frustration.

Ply file in meshlab.