This is going to make us all feel really stupid. There is no need in re-flashing firmware, changing the heater element, or even the thermistor if you’re getting the overheating error. I just discovered that after this happened all I had to do was go to the print panel in repetier host, go to the white text field where one can enter the g-code commands and send to the printer Code M999 and click send. This fixed my problem.  It basically tells you to do this when you get the error! Ha hope this helps anyone who has been having this issue.

But also, to make sure your hot end isn’t messing up, take a multimeter and measure across the RG57 resistive element to make sure the resistance is around 7 ohms. On my Solidoodle Gen2 the white powdery substance broke loose from the element and the hot end would not retain as much heat as usual. I secured this in place to regain heat by wrapping some stainless steel foil around the element and cramming it back into place.

TheBarnetts wrote:

n2ri wrote:

you will melt the Peek at those temps. I always print ABS with My SD2 and can never set temp above 200c as it often overshoots to 210 and 215 is limit due to ruining PEEK if higher besides other issues. ABS prints fine at 195 in my SD2 unless printing large solid infil using layers thicker than .2 then the cooldown during recovery which drops to like 188 makes it too stiff to feed that fast, thats why I raised to 200 to keep min above 193 where it begins getting stiff. this was main issue I had printing the large parts for my Atlas scanner besides slic3r bug on my old version of Slic3r creating bad gcode on a few parts for some reason.

these are some reasons for the upgrades most do on Solidoodle printers.

Pretty sure I have the exact opposite problem. My printer has an under shoot of 30c at least. I think my thermistor is on it's last leg so I'll reset the firmware and start from the bottom when I get my new kit. Currently printing at "260c" with ABS. It would have definitely failed if there wasn't an indication mismatch.

your above posts say its hitting limit. that limit is what protects things like the Peek, thermisters etc that have operating temp limits on stock SD printers

Emphasis on 'says'. Yes, it says it's reaching the limit when it very cleary isn't actually that hot. PLA was jamming at '210' indication because it simply wasn't actually 210. My guess, as previously stated, is that the thermistor is becoming less accurate and is depicting a higher temp over time. I plan on changing the thermistor, reseting the firmware limits to default, and seeing if the discrepancy duplicates after the part is changed.

n2ri wrote:

you will melt the Peek at those temps. I always print ABS with My SD2 and can never set temp above 200c as it often overshoots to 210 and 215 is limit due to ruining PEEK if higher besides other issues. ABS prints fine at 195 in my SD2 unless printing large solid infil using layers thicker than .2 then the cooldown during recovery which drops to like 188 makes it too stiff to feed that fast, thats why I raised to 200 to keep min above 193 where it begins getting stiff. this was main issue I had printing the large parts for my Atlas scanner besides slic3r bug on my old version of Slic3r creating bad gcode on a few parts for some reason.

these are some reasons for the upgrades most do on Solidoodle printers.

Pretty sure I have the exact opposite problem. My printer has an under shoot of 30c at least. I think my thermistor is on it's last leg so I'll reset the firmware and start from the bottom when I get my new kit. Currently printing at "260c" with ABS. It would have definitely failed if there wasn't an indication mismatch.

your above posts say its hitting limit. that limit is what protects things like the Peek, thermisters etc that have operating temp limits on stock SD printers

you will melt the Peek at those temps. I always print ABS with My SD2 and can never set temp above 200c as it often overshoots to 210 and 215 is limit due to ruining PEEK if higher besides other issues. ABS prints fine at 195 in my SD2 unless printing large solid infil using layers thicker than .2 then the cooldown during recovery which drops to like 188 makes it too stiff to feed that fast, thats why I raised to 200 to keep min above 193 where it begins getting stiff. this was main issue I had printing the large parts for my Atlas scanner besides slic3r bug on my old version of Slic3r creating bad gcode on a few parts for some reason.

these are some reasons for the upgrades most do on Solidoodle printers.

Pretty sure I have the exact opposite problem. My printer has an under shoot of 30c at least. I think my thermistor is on it's last leg so I'll reset the firmware and start from the bottom when I get my new kit. Currently printing at "260c" with ABS. It would have definitely failed if there wasn't an indication mismatch.

these are some reasons for the upgrades most do on Solidoodle printers.

Max temp error is strictly firmware driven.  You are gonna have to ensure that the flash actually took.

That was it! Turned out I had the wrong board selected to upload to... thanks to all that have helped me get this far. I know it was probably trying to listen to someone as inexperienced as myself. Fingers crossed that my hot end doesn't burn out before I can print the ABS pieces to make an ed3 bowden mod.

wardjr wrote:

Are you getting a Max temp error?  The stock SD hot end reads 20-30 degrees cooler than actual due to thermistor location.  Looks like it is hitting the max temp preset of 220.  You should have no problems extruding ABS at a set temp of 212-215.  When you reflashed the firmware did you change the max temp setting?  That PEEK hot end can't take much higher temps than the reported 220 (closer to 250).
As for it stopping mid print, if it hits max temp it will stop so fix that first.  Otherwise you have a USB connection issue or bad PSU connection.

Well, dang, I guess it is topping out. I've never had the max temp error before and I've run with it indicating higher temps... Should I go into the code and increase the max temp? I'm having trouble even printing with PLA... Also THANK YOU for helping me man. I'm still learning a lot and really appreciate it!

If you are having to go beyond 235 to print PLA then you have an issue with the temp not being reported correctly and it is lower than being reported. You need to confirm with a contact thermometer that can read high temps what your actual hotend temp is. The you can just do a mental offset in your head to compensate. As long as the actual temp is not 235 then you could raise the MAX TEMP in your code. BUT and I stress BUT you should find out why the temp is not reported correctly. Do you have the correct device selected in the firmware. IS the PID calibrated?

Are you getting a Max temp error?  The stock SD hot end reads 20-30 degrees cooler than actual due to thermistor location.  Looks like it is hitting the max temp preset of 220.  You should have no problems extruding ABS at a set temp of 212-215.  When you reflashed the firmware did you change the max temp setting?  That PEEK hot end can't take much higher temps than the reported 220 (closer to 250).
As for it stopping mid print, if it hits max temp it will stop so fix that first.  Otherwise you have a USB connection issue or bad PSU connection.

Well, dang, I guess it is topping out. I've never had the max temp error before and I've run with it indicating higher temps... Should I go into the code and increase the max temp? I'm having trouble even printing with PLA... Also THANK YOU for helping me man. I'm still learning a lot and really appreciate it!