You need to move the camera further up on the mounting post so that the cross hairs are aligned when the camera is perfectly square.  The camera should not be tilted, it should be perfectly vertical.

+1

The main reason for asking, when I align the cross hairs to the tips of the calibration jig, the camera is tilted back and not square.  Should I make the camera square and not worry about aligning to the top peaks of the jig?

Thanks

There's another calibration piece that uses a checkerboard pattern, so you line it up with the horizontal line edges of the squares, and I've seen yet another 3D printed piece that seems to have some horizontal slots in it.

Whichever one you use, the principle is the same.

What are you saying "Align the horizontal cross-hair with the horizontal line on the object".  What horizontal line on the object.  The instructions shows lining the horizontal cross-hair to the tips of the calibration jig.  Here are the instructions I'm using. http://www.murobo.com/start.html
Is there a newer set of instructions?

Thanks for your help!!!

Thanks a lot,

Bob

I would suggest using a calibration object that is known to be perfectly vertical, and that has a slightly darker color.  The reason for the darker color is that it will reduce the brightness and reflection of the laser on the surface and create a visibly "thinner" line.

I use a checkerboard pattern attached to a CD jewel box.  When I open it up, the jewel box sits nice and vertical. It would also help if you find and mark the center of your turntable.

First, we need to line up the camera.  Place your calibration object in the middle of the turn table with it's vertical line aligned with the centerline of the turntable.  Next adjust the camera so it's vertical cross-hair lines up with the line on the calibration object. 

Align the horizontal cross-hair with the horizontal line on the object. DO NOT TILT the camera to adjust it.  The camera should always look straight, not up or down.  You degree of tilt should be 0°.  Use a square or protractor to make sure.

Once you have the camera aligned, tighten donw the screws just enough to prevent it from moving.  Over tightening can lead to misalignment.

Now you have to align the lasers.  first bring them as close to the center as possible so they intersect in the middle of the calibration tool, then calibrate each laser vertically one at the time by rotating them in their socket.  Again, tighten the screws just enough to hold the laser, but don't over tighten.

When you have everything lined up, do an auto-calibration, and look at the resulting PNG file.  Specifically, check the little green and yellow cross hairs at the top and bottom, they should ideally overlap, but if they're close, you should be good.

That's about all the information I can give you.  If you do this right, your final output should have only one shell.

Good luck.

I have one lingering issue that I'm hoping someone can assist with.  At the bottom of my scans the two lasers meet up perfect and there is no double shell at all.  As the scan gets higher off from the table I start to get a double shell which gets consistently worse the higher up the object it goes. Does anyone have any suggestions what may be causing this.  Thanks,

Bob