As for the electrical tape, mine is not loose to begin with, I actually found the mount to be very snug.  What I was commenting on is that the hot end is not exactly below the drive gear when using the hobb goblin, and that would be a TON of work to change in your drafting program of choice, especially when I am not having issue with the current setup.

I have been using a hobb goblin on a "non-offset" MK5 for sometime without filament spills or other issues.  They key is to cut your PTFE tube to a pointed tip, not straight across the top like shown.  If you get it tight enough to the drive gear, it won't spill out even if it is at a slight angle.

It can if the velocity of the drive gear is high enough. I learned this with PETG and had to switch to the correct Mk5 for the goblin. It just depends on how grippable the filament is. Some filament will also collapse instead of jamming the motor (because it's soft), and this allows it to snag and curl up in the way OP describes. Nylon and PETG are notorious for this at high speed.

I used to use your solution before the hobb goblin upgrade. What I do now is wrap a single piece of electrical tape around the groove mount of the E3D and it fits very snug.

The best solution, of course, is to eliminate the angle and get the hot end directly below the hobb goblin with a modified mount like jago is doing.  But I really like my mount (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431363) and despite being sized for the stock gear, it still works with the hobb goblin if you get the tube tight enough to the bottom of the drive gear.  But if someone wants to modify it to shift the hot end about a mm to the left, feel free.  Too much work for me haha.

STL attached. Please read the instruction sheet first for an explanation of what this does.

Feed back please.