Yesterday I replaced the single fan on the back wall with two fans...runs a bit quieter and more CFM as well as a more even airflow.
I might print a new extruder fan mount utilizing a bit larger fan. 

Printed a nice arduino uno mount last night and it came out nice and clean with the new fans.  Also ditched the tape for the Elmer's purple glue stick and it works VERY well...perfect amount of adhesion and not to hard to get off the bed.

...now if we can only get the filament hack going it'll be awesome.

So while you can use acetone to clear a ABS clog you can't on PLA. That isn't to say that acetone has no effect on PLA it just isn't anything that is all that useful.

I have also tried acetone on PETG and TPU they don't smooth or dissolve those either but they still affect it. PETG acts a lot like PLA in that respect and  TPU will loose inter layer bonding, will warp and can easily be torn after soaking in acetone if you do not let "dry".

The most it has ever done after 24 hours of soaking is made the surface slightly white.

PLA soaked in acetone will become flexible (assuming the part is relatively thin), but your are correct it definitely doesn't dissolve the filament

Don't soak PLA in water if you want to print with it!

Water contamination is one reason for blocked hot ends. it will also make for bubbly horrible prints.
you can dry out a bad roll by putting it in your oven lowest setting and letting it "dry" for about a hour or two.

After printing you can soak pla in acetone and it will soften it and make it some what flexible but more often then not you get splitting and it ruins the print.

Are you sure you are not thinking ABS ?? Acetone has absolutely no effect on PLA. The most it has ever done after 24 hours of soaking is made the surface slightly white. This is also the reason why people burn out PLA clogs instead of soaking them in acetone like they do with ABS. This is also why it cannot be vapor finished.

The only solvent for PLA is Tetrahyrofuran and I would strongly advise you to read the MSDS on the stuff and carefully consider if you want it any where near your property. It is a chemical that should only be used in a lab and under very controlled conditions.

Water contamination is one reason for blocked hot ends. it will also make for bubbly horrible prints.
you can dry out a bad roll by putting it in your oven lowest setting and letting it "dry" for about a hour or two.

After printing you can soak pla in acetone and it will soften it and make it some what flexible but more often then not you get splitting and it ruins the print.

I'm going to try that!  (I've also heard soaking filament in warm water before letting it dry and use....apparently it makes it elastic.)

So far I've had great performance after adding a small squirrel cage fan aimed onto the bed, cooling the filament before the extruder hits it again.  Worked like a charm and prints are coming out great.

I just picked up a couple of higher performance 80mm fans to replace the single fan and printing some fan directional diffusers.

Thanks!

Tre'

once its cleared you really should set up some way to print your PLA with a small amount of vegetable oil on the filament. It really makes a difference and will keep your print head from getting blocked up.  Even just taking a paper towel and moistening it with oil and then using a clothes clip (you know the kind you use to hang wet cloths to a clothes line) to hold the paper towel and have it press lightly on the filament so that the oil transfers but not so tight that it keeps it from sliding through will work. on the plus side it also cleans off any debris.

this will keep your print head from clogging

The bed X axis wasn't level when I picked it up at Microcenter...the right side lower issue.  So I've leveled the bed using both the permanent method using the screws as well as a small slice of gaff tape under the front left side...now it's nice and level. Also have tried most combinations of quality and the slowest speeds, as well as verified the extruder is clear. 

No matter the x axis height, the extruder feed clicks & eats part of the filament...however I've kept the mechanism clear.  (extruder looks like the 1.0 version with the flat bottom.)

With alignment straight, it prints nice and straight, however the fill isn't solid...this print is at 90%.  Here are the specs of this particular print of a GoPro extension from Thingiverse, the link below. 

What could this problem be?...also, has anyone nailed down the the extruder feeder clicking yet?  (now with he bed nice and level and the x axis adjusted, the clicking is less but has never gone away, especially mid to end print.  I've also tried cooling the feeder motor with a cooling fan...not sure if that's helped or not, but still clicks.

The only setting that theoretically lessens the clicking is lowering the stress on the feed in general by having the speed slow and layer at 0.1 or 0.2 so to slow the amount of feed going through.  It's helped but again, not stopped the issue.

Here are the settings of this particular print:

Printed file:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:306776

XYZware version : 2.1.3.2
Serial : 3F1J0PUS5TH53K0042
Quality : Excellent
Infill : 90%
Layer Height : 0.10
Shells : Normal
Speed : Slow

No rafts, brims, or supports

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Tre'