SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (elmoret) — Tue, 03 Nov 2015 02:51:54 +0000

Existing power supply is fine.

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (mark.burhop) — Tue, 03 Nov 2015 02:32:02 +0000

I've ordered E3D Lite6 so I started seeing what I need to do for the upgrade. Any chance the existing power supply will work or do I need to get a new one?

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (AZERATE) — Mon, 19 Oct 2015 01:21:48 +0000

Yup!

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (mark.burhop) — Mon, 19 Oct 2015 01:12:09 +0000

@wardJr OK, I'm looking for a project. Thanks for your kind offer to help @azerate, thanks for your support too.

Since I'm in the US, I found it at filastruder http://www.filastruder.com/products/lite6 I'm guessing I need the 1.75 direct 12 volt version.

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (AZERATE) — Sun, 18 Oct 2015 23:59:28 +0000

+1 to what wardjr said.

I had the exact thing happen until he convinced me to upgrade. He told me I wouldn't regret it, and he was dead right.
I haven't had those symptoms since.

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (wardjr) — Sun, 18 Oct 2015 23:36:36 +0000

Ok Mark, this is my absolute best advice. You've been around for a long while and I know you know your way around a printer. Throw that hot end in the garbage along with that filament. I once had a roll of SD red that did the exact same thing. It is most definitely time for an E3d upgrade and at the price of the LITE6 why deal with the frustration. I will personally help you with any and all steps required. That leaves you with no excuses

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (mark.burhop) — Sun, 18 Oct 2015 23:19:26 +0000

OK, I cleaned the nozzle until is was brand new (butane, Acetone, the whole 9 yards) Taped it all up, re-leveled my bed, and I am exactly where I started.

Here is a simple Vine of my problem. Note I'm at 200C, just extruding at 84mm/min. I also removed the fan. Initially, extruding is running, then it pauses for a few seconds, then starts again (you can click on the image to pause it):

https://vine.co/v/e9r9lAOOHTv

I've adjusted the tension about 100 times so that is not it. I've also cleaned the driver teeth. If I set it high, it just shaves off bits of the filament... Too loose and it just stops.

So, what is next? Flashing it board with a higher MAXTEMP?

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (mark.burhop) — Sun, 18 Oct 2015 19:45:18 +0000

So, I switched back to PLA, and it worked fine which is confusing me. In any case, I'm kind of at the clog conclusion too

For reference, here is my last attempt.... Nowto go clean my nozzle....where is that butane torch (my garage is a mess)...

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (AZERATE) — Sun, 18 Oct 2015 15:29:07 +0000

I agree with the clog theory. Going from PLA to ABS isn't the issue here. It going from ABS to PLA....and potentially ABS again. Moving PLA to ABS is just a step of upping the temp for a few minutes and ramming something through to clear out any debris. If you have any ABS left in the hotend before switching to PLA, then the new debris will only get worse as PLA moves around it. Since PLA more runny than ABS, you can run for awhile without noticing. But it would be obvious when moving back to higher temp materials.

PLA can be printed without an enclosure, but you need one for ABS to keep the heat in.

Clear your clog by removing the barrel from the PEEK. When dealing with a potential clog, I would advise stripping it all down: remove barrel and nozzle from the heating block. use a butane torch to heat then clear with a straightened wire coat hanger. For the nozzle, heat the point up as much as you like, scrape/push out what you can, then drop into acetone for an hour once it has cooled

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (poorspartin117) — Sun, 18 Oct 2015 14:47:57 +0000

your extruder should be 205c - 215c. ( mines 210 ), with a bed temp at 110. sounds like you have a clog ( i have bought 3 seperate extruder hot ends because i was running at temps for the previous motherboard, i thought i had the old one, i dont i have the new one). it sucks but move your temps up and use a clean hot end. once the temps are correct and the plastic is extruding properly, then all you should have to do is level the print bed and use some abs glue to hold the first layer down and you should be good to go.

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (n2ri) — Fri, 16 Oct 2015 23:22:45 +0000

jagowilson wrote:

mark.burhop wrote:
Anyone want to point me in the right direction on what to try next? Maybe there is a good thread I missed in the forum or some settings that are better than the default?
Sounds to me like your hotend clogged up, or there isn't enough tension on the filament. Can you still extrude PLA?
There's a sticky in this forum for clogged SD2-variety hotends.

not clogged just too cold for ABS at PLA temps. and if he didnt push all PLA out while changing to ABS and temps got too hot then PLA may have burned/crystallized some which can be worse than a clog. SD2 hotends not good for swapping between ABS/PLA due to how its made.

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (jagowilson) — Fri, 16 Oct 2015 22:28:03 +0000

mark.burhop wrote:

Anyone want to point me in the right direction on what to try next? Maybe there is a good thread I missed in the forum or some settings that are better than the default?

Sounds to me like your hotend clogged up, or there isn't enough tension on the filament. Can you still extrude PLA?

There's a sticky in this forum for clogged SD2-variety hotends.

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (carl_m1968) — Fri, 16 Oct 2015 17:29:05 +0000

Also make sure if your printer is open to put it in a location where drafts like from air vents will not hit it. The temp around the printing area needs to stay stable for ABS to work well. That's why you see some printers are enclosed.

Re: SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (n2ri) — Fri, 16 Oct 2015 17:12:35 +0000

been running my SD2 same as you for years but ABS. seems temps dont read exact due to poor thermister location. I run at 195c extruder and 80c bed. does great also do flow rate calc on filament and be sure all is set for ABS and bed temp has to stay warm all layers not just 1st like PLA.

SD2 and ABS. How hard can it be? Arrrrrg! Help!

null@example.com (mark.burhop) — Fri, 16 Oct 2015 16:31:08 +0000

I've been printing with my SD2 in PLA for years. I'm a master of PLA Lately, I've been giving away a few prints to kids and you can guess what happens....drop it on a hard floor and it breaks. So how hard can a switch to ABS be?

1. I pull up the ABS profile for Slicer/RepitierHost and I get very rough deposition and shavings where the drive is pushing the filament into the nozzle.

2. OK, temperature is too low or I'm pushing it in too fast or a partial clog. I raise the temperature and start getting MAXTEMP errors at about 207 degrees (plus or minus) and the job quits. The extruded filament looks thick but maybe that is just ABS (PLA gets kind of runny). It is brand new ABS (no moisture).

3. I did a few searches for MAXTEMP, ABS, etc. I'm sure there is something on the forum but I haven't been able to find it.

Anyone want to point me in the right direction on what to try next? Maybe there is a good thread I missed in the forum or some settings that are better than the default?