This was a more complex print too so I am happy it went as well as it did. I am just surprised that they don't come with better PLA, a sheet of glass, some purple glue and enclosed.

I only have 2cm space left widthwise, too narrow for tubing like yours, which looks great by the way. I should have done the whole thing like yours but with a wire structure. Lucky it's in the garage where my things pay their rent by being useful not beautiful.

I'll pretty it up if it works... I'm going to try another 9 hour print. Without the insulation it failed with another clog after about 6 hours yesterday. I know the insulation is to stop the curling but I'm going to use my new PLA, the rarely used left extruder and the purple glue. I've got fresh glass on it and leveled the platform again. It'll be 195/65 again.

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Also insulating the printer has done nothing for it's looks but I am hoping for great things.

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I think when people get the CTC replicator they assume things all be it i went through the same emotions as you are wanting to make it better.
straight out of the box i could print PLA and it stuck to painters tape. i have also removed the kapton tape and only have the aluminium base which i stick the blue painters tape to and my print come out successfully. how i managed to get the PLA to stick was getting the temperatures correct and building and enclosure.

I have noticed when i use glass etc.... there is a difference in temperatures from whats reading on the hotbed and the actual temperature. i bought temperature reader and check this before i print (also some people have notices oxidization at the extruder end worth investigating as this can cause clogging at the extruder end?) i don't use glue or anything but i had purchased hair spray and also UHU glue and haven't managed to print ABS but can print PLA no bother. i use the maker bot software and have changed the firmware on my CTC to  replicator firmware. i have printed out upgrades for my machine spring release for the filament extrusion and also a cooling duct to cool down the ABS and also i have printed out the lead screw bearings but i haven't installed any of these parts yet but plan to do so within the next few months when i get time.

I can successfully print out using both extruders using the makerbot software you can set a colour for the extruders i have put the right = red and left = white i have tried printing with one pla and the other abs as a test i built the raft out of pla and the main part in abs but the corners started to warp with the excessive heat from the abs. below is a picture of a print from my pla on painters tape with supports. my best advice to any one is to research and keep trying as it can get you down when they fail even after 2hrs of printing but try try again hope this helps i will try and get you what my temperatures are when i get the chance

Good call with the similar temp filament for each extruder, I am sure I will put that into practice when I do change extruders. For now both have had ABS and PLA, but I have given up with ABS until I get good consistency with PLA... I'm told it's easier to work with.

My PLA is the stuff that came shipped with it, I have ordered more but have no way of telling if it is good or bad quality. No-one is advertising as low quality.

Here's what I have bought...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111753777460? … EBIDX%3AIT

I did start off with ABS however I have run a substantial amount of PLA through at 230 in order to help clear any ABS. I have also removed the fan, heatsink, motor and nozzle. Cleaned the nozzle as best I could and cleared all material from the barrel that feeds the filament from the 'feeder' (gearbox thing that pulls the filament through).

The MK10 extruders seem like a good idea but I'd like to work with what I have for a bit so that I can nail the process down. If these are the correct part then £90/pair doesn't seem unreasonable.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK10-12v-100K … SwBLlVLjY2

I'd still like to put a bit of wear on them before replacing them though. Feels like a waste not to.

Speaking of upgrading though, I have heard of stabilisers for the x and y axis which are supposed to be printable and work well... Have you got any thoughts on that sort of thing or even a thingverse item number for something that works well.

That extruder won't work. The CTC uses a 24 volt system and thermocouples on the hotends instead of thermistors. I buy my parts from Uncle Chuck here in the US. He ships world wide though. The CTC is closer to a clone of the Flashforge which is what he specializes in. This is the part I got to upgrade mine.

http://unclechucks3dprinterstuff.com/ex … 20page.htm

Look at part# CDEX - 10 there in the big picture. That has all the wires and plugs, and is a drop in replacement.

My PLA is the stuff that came shipped with it, I have ordered more but have no way of telling if it is good or bad quality. No-one is advertising as low quality.

Here's what I have bought...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111753777460? … EBIDX%3AIT

I did start off with ABS however I have run a substantial amount of PLA through at 230 in order to help clear any ABS. I have also removed the fan, heatsink, motor and nozzle. Cleaned the nozzle as best I could and cleared all material from the barrel that feeds the filament from the 'feeder' (gearbox thing that pulls the filament through).

The MK10 extruders seem like a good idea but I'd like to work with what I have for a bit so that I can nail the process down. If these are the correct part then £90/pair doesn't seem unreasonable.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK10-12v-100K … SwBLlVLjY2

I'd still like to put a bit of wear on them before replacing them though. Feels like a waste not to.

Speaking of upgrading though, I have heard of stabilisers for the x and y axis which are supposed to be printable and work well... Have you got any thoughts on that sort of thing or even a thingverse item number for something that works well.

If you went from a higher temp filament like abs to a lower temp like pla you could be getting clogs from abs still in the hotend but not melting fully. Unfortunatly due to your head design you can't do a cold pull to clean out your hot end.

You should really look in to getting mk10 upgrade kits for your extruders. Then you have  a release lever and better grip on the filament for less slipping.

On mine to avoid the high/low temp issue I keep use similar temp filaments on different extruders. Low temps on the left and high temps on the right.

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As a side note... Extra strength hairspray might be too much. I tried to remove the print after cooling and it held so tight that a silver of glass has come away with it.

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I ran it under water to make it more visable. It's definitely an indent.

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Anyone have any ideas about shells and infill? I have been using 20% infill and 3 shells so far but have just kicked off a print with 15% and 2 shells because I forgot to change it. Also I have just switched to linear infill instead of hexagonal... Any thoughts or preferences?

The hairspray which worked was l'oreal elnett satin extra strength. I picked it because I know I have seen it around in many places and therefore wouldn't be likely to disappear from the supermarket shelves any time soon. It's not cheap (for hairspray), but it is readily available in the UK.

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I didn't see aquanet available anywhere in the UK so I used some cheap extra firm pound store one first which didn't work. I figured cheap, less extra stuff in it like conditioners etc. I imagine there are cheap ones that'll do but l'oreal came good so I'm probably not going to try others, after all my elmers glue sticks will arrive in november.

Water (Aqua), Dimethyl Ether, SD Alcohol 40-B (Alcohol Denat.), VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sodium Benzoate, Cyclohexylamine, Triethyl Citrate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Masking Fragrance (Parfum).

Can't really tell you what the important chemicals are but those are whats in it and it works.