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		<title><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
		<link>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/12282/new-guy-in-az-with-solidoodle-3-and-a-1st-question/</link>
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		<description><![CDATA[The most recent posts in new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question).]]></description>
		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 16:35:00 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106067/#p106067</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Good luck, let us know how it works out.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wardjr)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 16:35:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106067/#p106067</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106065/#p106065</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>wardjr wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>Check the wires in the plug those are crappy connections.&nbsp; The board is more than capable of handling the load.&nbsp; If you are getting burning it is caused by a thin wire where it is crimped or poor contact with the pins.&nbsp; You really don&#039;t need or want an SSR for the extruder and if you should choose a bigger bed heater than an SSR would be needed.&nbsp; When it comes to DC to DC relays you want to be rated close to double the rated load.&nbsp; <br />A DC to AC Relay is not what you want unless (like in my case) the bed heater is actually running on AC.</p></blockquote></div><p>ah OK, now I understand.&nbsp; Guess I did jump ahead of the real issue and tried to solve something that is not an issue.&nbsp; I actually bought a pack of MOLEX connectors to run from board to relays, those are rated to 250V / 2.5A, so calculate 625W - look better then stock feeding the bed so I will replace and make better connections, maybe solder all.&nbsp; Will jump the PSU 3 pins as you noted - I saw pics of that while googling my issue last night.</p><p>Thank you very much for instant reply to my question.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (hB)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 16:27:09 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106065/#p106065</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106060/#p106060</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Check the wires in the plug those are crappy connections.&nbsp; The board is more than capable of handling the load.&nbsp; If you are getting burning it is caused by a thin wire where it is crimped or poor contact with the pins.&nbsp; You really don&#039;t need or want an SSR for the extruder and if you should choose a bigger bed heater than an SSR would be needed.&nbsp; When it comes to DC to DC relays you want to be rated close to double the rated load.&nbsp; <br />A DC to AC Relay is not what you want unless (like in my case) the bed heater is actually running on AC.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wardjr)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 16:16:50 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106060/#p106060</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106059/#p106059</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>wardjr wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>No need for a relay then.&nbsp; Just jump all three banks on the PSU and run one each black (-) and red(+) to the board.&nbsp; The internal connections in the PSU are small so this will allow more current to flow.&nbsp; A picture of your wiring may help with troubleshooting.</p></blockquote></div><p>hmmm, maybe I jumped to a false conclusion but when I saw brown on connector from board bed heater, I speculated that was acting as a point of resistance so thought a relay would be better to take power direct from new PS.&nbsp; Then I went all out and relayed the extruder as well.&nbsp; Guess I should put the extruder back as stock but not sure about bed.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (hB)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 16:11:02 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106059/#p106059</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106055/#p106055</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>No need for a relay then.&nbsp; Just jump all three banks on the PSU and run one each black (-) and red(+) to the board.&nbsp; The internal connections in the PSU are small so this will allow more current to flow.&nbsp; A picture of your wiring may help with troubleshooting.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wardjr)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 15:57:44 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106055/#p106055</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106054/#p106054</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>wardjr wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>What bed heater do you have? Wattage</p></blockquote></div><p>not sure.&nbsp; As far as I know it is the stock heater.&nbsp; Looks like pics I have seen online.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (hB)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 15:54:34 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106054/#p106054</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106053/#p106053</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>What bed heater do you have? Wattage</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wardjr)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 15:47:51 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106053/#p106053</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106050/#p106050</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>quick followup with 2 questions.&nbsp; Thought about opening a new thread but should be quick.&nbsp; I&#039;ve made several great prints over past week (most my designs in FreeCAD, a few downloaded STL) but had one recurring issue - for a print longer then about 2 hours the printer shuts down.&nbsp; While debugging I noticed the connector for bed heater is browned from heat.&nbsp; I&nbsp; think the board is shutting down to protect itself.</p><p>So I took Tin&#039;s advise from post above and ordered the supernight PS.&nbsp; Arrived yesterday - for info of anyone reading this who has not converted - it is a nice unit, attaches nicely to back of SD3 by drilling four holes.</p><p>I decided that would also run extruder heat through it since it has 3 taps - 1 for motherboard, 1 for bed (the problem), and 1 for extruder.&nbsp; Did not think about relays, just used the black box four post magnetic style.&nbsp; I suppose you will know what happened - click click click, especially for the extruder, no so bad for the bed.&nbsp; So back to Google - found discussions on this forum and elsewhere about SSRs.&nbsp; Makes sense, should have thought of that.&nbsp; A search on web shows 12V 10 amp or higher from $22 all the way to $50 - a bit much.&nbsp; Found some relay suggestions that have output side for AC, confused about people running DC through those.&nbsp; I&#039;m a mechanical guy, I can get by for electrical but no expert.&nbsp; Could use some advise for minimum cost to get the job done.</p><p>So questions:&nbsp; What SSRs did you use?&nbsp; Did you install a second for extruder or did you just leave it through the board?</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (hB)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2015 15:02:23 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/106050/#p106050</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105369/#p105369</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>thanks everyone - got the correct PS from the seller - 12V, 12.5 A with correct size plug.&nbsp; So power is on, now messing around with my PC not recognizing USB device.&nbsp; Seems to be a common issue as found many discussions.&nbsp; Found the driver pack at <a href="http://wiki.solidoodle.com/installing-drivers">http://wiki.solidoodle.com/installing-drivers</a></p><p>ETA - so after all that, found that unit does not like a longer USB cord.&nbsp; I tried 10ft, no go, tried 6 ft that came with it and works fine.&nbsp; Need to reorg my area to accommodate.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (hB)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2015 22:53:11 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105369/#p105369</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105340/#p105340</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>welcome aboard! </p><p>the Supernight PSUs are good (and cheap!) I have a couple of them - no problems so far.</p><p>I have used Octave brand filament for a while now with pretty much no problems (other than they typical ABS issues of warping and/or cracking, and there are ways to reduce those), but it does get kind of expensive when you buy multiple colors...</p><p>Another filament I have had pretty good luck with is Hatchbox brand found on Amazon - a good bit cheaper than Octave, but seems to print just as nicely. I have a silver and a gold of that brand - both print well, but the gold prints just beautifully.</p><p>another source for decent filament at rock bottom pricing is Microcenter&#039;s house brand, called Inland. I have 3 spools from them, Black, Green, and a glow in the dark. Havent run the black yet, but the green and GITD both print very nicely.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (heartless)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2015 14:46:16 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105340/#p105340</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105337/#p105337</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>You are welcome I do my best to welcome folks you show in their intro they are here for the right reasons and eager to learn. </p><div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>The SOLIDWORKS Student Edition cost to qualified US and Canadian Military Veterans is $20. For US, a copy of your DD214 form is required. For Canada, a copy of your NDI 75 or CAF 75 (Record of Service ID Card) is required.</p></blockquote></div><p><a href="https://store.solidworks.com/veteran/default.php">https://store.solidworks.com/veteran/default.php</a></p><p>And as Ward said if you buy a PS go for a 30 amp will give room for upgrades. </p><p>Another good brand is MeanWell distributed by TRC electronics<br />IIRC a bit more money than supernight but lots of choices and good quality. <br /><a href="http://%20http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/SE-350-12.shtml"> http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mea … 0-12.shtml</a><br />You may want to look at makergeeks for filament it is USA made .and a little cheaper than octave. A lot of the rolls are 1 lb so you can get variety easier if you like. <br /><a href="http://www.makergeeks.com/maker-filament.html">http://www.makergeeks.com/maker-filament.html</a><br />Glad to help<br />Tin</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (Tin Falcon)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2015 13:52:20 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105337/#p105337</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105323/#p105323</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>Tin Falcon wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>first of all welcome to the forum . </p><p>As far as a power supply 150 watts is correct. IIRC the unit should only pull about 120 max on warm up. but you want a little cushion.<br />looking at my factory ps&nbsp; for my sd4 it is indeed 150 watts( 12v 12.5 amp ) center positive.</p><p>Some of the folks here have used the supernight PS off ebay<br /><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-12V-DC-30A-360W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-for-LED-Strip-Light-/221361613881?hash=item338a2e2c39">http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-12V- … 338a2e2c39</a></p><p>if you are not using or do not have a heated bed 120 watt should be ok. </p><p>Congrats on the citizenship! Good luck on the job hunting. <br />As far as resume padding and 3d printing you would do well to learn some parametric CAD. it is the difference in using the printer as a tool vs a toy. As a vet you can get a one year student licence for solidworks for $20, worth looking into. </p><p>I too am a vet 24 years national guard 6yrs Army electronics /communications. 11 yrs&nbsp; as USAF&nbsp; red hat/ RO&nbsp; and the remaining time Aircraft Maint/Fabrication shop. <br />Not sure if I am an expert but have had my sd 4 for over a year, And have been here almost that long. </p><p>Tin</p></blockquote></div><p>hello Tin; thanks for detailed reply.&nbsp; Yep, I know CAD.&nbsp; Cut my teeth on Fortran during degree (dating myself, and it was not CAD as we know it today, it was a compiler), used Autocad after left service, been using SolidWorks pretty much since it came out.&nbsp; I will admit that I&#039;m rusty because so called &quot;promotions&quot; past five years or so took me away from hands on into prg mgt so less CAD work.&nbsp; Another good reason to get into printing, it will force me to practice CAD.&nbsp; With all that said I did not know about $20 for vets - I am not a US vet but I&#039;ll ask if any vet counts, failing that I will check with Canadian distributor (not sure they can sell outside Canada, talk about a catch 22)</p><p>thanks again!</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (hB)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2015 02:35:08 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105323/#p105323</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105307/#p105307</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to the forum, there&#039;s plenty of knowledgeable people here that are more than willing to help.<br />First I&#039;d like to mention that SD never used any form of proprietary filament.&nbsp; They do sell filament and it&#039;s not great in my experience.&nbsp; Octave brand seems to be a group favorite around here.&nbsp; As far as your PSU goes, don&#039;t skimp on power.&nbsp; Everything on your printer will be happier with more power.&nbsp; I would recommend a 30 amp SuperNight from Amazon.&nbsp; It&#039;ll bolt nicely to the back of your SD3 and provide plenty of power.&nbsp; You may want to spend a little time digging through the stickies, especially in the hacks and mods section.&nbsp; If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.</p><p>As always, Happy Printing.</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (wardjr)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2015 00:24:58 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105307/#p105307</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105306/#p105306</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>first of all welcome to the forum . </p><p>As far as a power supply 150 watts is correct. IIRC the unit should only pull about 120 max on warm up. but you want a little cushion.<br />looking at my factory ps&nbsp; for my sd4 it is indeed 150 watts( 12v 12.5 amp ) center positive.</p><p>Some of the folks here have used the supernight PS off ebay<br /><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-12V-DC-30A-360W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-for-LED-Strip-Light-/221361613881?hash=item338a2e2c39">http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-12V- … 338a2e2c39</a></p><p>if you are not using or do not have a heated bed 120 watt should be ok. </p><p>Congrats on the citizenship! Good luck on the job hunting. <br />As far as resume padding and 3d printing you would do well to learn some parametric CAD. it is the difference in using the printer as a tool vs a toy. As a vet you can get a one year student licence for solidworks for $20, worth looking into. </p><p>I too am a vet 24 years national guard 6yrs Army electronics /communications. 11 yrs&nbsp; as USAF&nbsp; red hat/ RO&nbsp; and the remaining time Aircraft Maint/Fabrication shop. <br />Not sure if I am an expert but have had my sd 4 for over a year, And have been here almost that long. </p><p>Tin</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (Tin Falcon)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sun, 13 Sep 2015 00:24:45 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105306/#p105306</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[new guy in AZ with Solidoodle 3 (and a 1st question)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105292/#p105292</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>hello; I just bought a used Solidoodle 3 from an acquaintance.&nbsp; He 3D printed brackets to hold generic reels up top, so no need to use the proprietary reels on back (the number one complaint that I read about this unit).&nbsp; He also included a large reel of ABS, a nice bonus.&nbsp; First problem - looks like he gave me wrong power supply - a massive 150 W Dell which I read online is correct power, but plug is far too big.&nbsp; So my first question on this forum - does anyone know absolute min power, just enough for me to use some old PS I have kicking around, just to do a few test prints until I can get back with seller?&nbsp; I searched online and all I got was 150W, could not even find voltage (the Dell is 19.5V)</p><p>Bit about myself -&nbsp; originally from east coast of Canada, served with Air Force as an Engineering Officer for 14 years starting with my Mechanical Eng degree.&nbsp; Got into electronics manufacturing after early retirement 21 years ago (government cutbacks), was with same company past 15 years, relocated to AZ 8 years ago with family (wife, son, dog, horse).&nbsp; Became a US citizen this year.&nbsp; Surprise, surprise - company eliminated my role earlier this year (last of engineering team, all work now offshore).&nbsp; So I have been searching (first time in my life for this experience, not liking it).&nbsp; Been thinking that the learning process to get into 3D printing will be good for my technical mind right now, heck maybe a resume padder!&nbsp; So when good deal came my way I jumped.</p><p>Other hobbies - hiking (big mountain hikes, example - Humphreys few months ago, that was awesome), 4WD (03 TJ that my teenage son and I lifted and wrenched), competitive shooting (USPSA), also am a certified RO and do a lot of mentoring for new to the sport.</p><p>Anyhow, that&#039;s me - I look forward to learning from experts on here, and I hope to contribute one day soon!</p>]]></description>
			<author><![CDATA[null@example.com (hB)]]></author>
			<pubDate>Sat, 12 Sep 2015 22:42:35 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://www.soliforum.com/post/105292/#p105292</guid>
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