I wish it was Easier to Change Nozzles .  LOL
(I worry about breaking wires to heater-block)

anything that tiny - regardless of what it is made of, or how it is made - will not be very durable. Just the nature of the of the size. Yes, some may be better than others, but they will all still break easily if too much lateral force is applied (which is easy to do at this size).

Yes, but they seem to Break with No Lateral-force
Just shatter with ANY force applied !

Note: the 2 that broke were mounted in a Dremel drill-press ,
with nozzle mounted in a vise , not allowing it to move.

EagleSeven wrote:

Warning: those Little tungsten-carbide Drill-bits are Not good for drilling out Nozzles,
Only good as size Gauges.
They Break  Very Easy !

thats because China dont even know what Tungsten Carbide is much less make drill bits with it LOL.

The bits I got were supposedly made in Japan, so I was hoping they would Not be made of Chalk,
like they appear to be ! LOL 

Thanks for the Info !

Warning: those Little tungsten-carbide Drill-bits are Not good for drilling out Nozzles,
Only good as size Gauges.
They Break  Very Easy !

thats because China dont even know what Tungsten Carbide is much less make drill bits with it LOL.

learned that 30 years ago. Chinas so called high speed steel bits also NOT. they will untwist in wood lmao.

buy real made in USA drill bits or dont waste your money at all. Anderson Forester is only quality made tiny number gauge drill bits like used for gas orifices (orifices are only brass by the way so use great care not to ruin them)

if an orifice has a burr or any tiny flaw it is no longer an orifice. and when you "clean" them with tweezers you are actually reaming them out with a bevel which also ruins them.

an Orifice (especially on a 3D printer) has microscopic dimensions both inside and out. which must be exact the inside bevel/taper to direct flow for needed performance. the smooth even hole (often with tiny crown to prevent spider webs) then the correct amount of flat face for smoothing molten filament. any China drill bits I find in my drill index get 'recycled in file 13' where they belong as they have cost me many times what a good bit is just in time and damage to items being drilled/redrilled/replaced or injury when they break and stab user. I never buy bits on ebay or at Harbor fright. after making my living for over 40 year career with tools. I know better than to rely on El Cheapo brands

Yes, looks like .4mm is a good setting in software, when using a .3mm nozzle .

There are settings for both nozzle size (diameter) and extrusion width...The Nozzle diameter should be 0.3 and the Extrusion width should be nozzle diameter x 1.2 or 0.36

Just make sure that when you change nozzles you also change the size in your slicer. Otherwise you will be over extruding or under extruding based on slicer settings. Might be why .4 looks odd to you.

Good idea, but the slicer setting was always .4 , even when using the .3,
so don't think slicer setting would cause it to be excessive when using a real .4 ?

Maybe it would not look excessive to most people,
I've just been accustomed to, and appreciate, the look of the .3 . LOL

I tried printing with the new .4mm nozzle and it is Excessive .
(Just not the smooth lines like the .3)
I was really surprised at the difference, of .3 and .4mm, made in quality of object !

The .2mm looks Way too small,
so I will be using .3mm size from now on.

Comparing them to ones I just got, one appears to be .3mm and the other .2mm.
When I get the drill-bits I may be able to get a better measurement.
Since I don't have any other way to accurately measure a hole that small.

I'm Not going to change them, by enlarging hole,
because they are working Great, the size they are.
Just need to find out what size they Really Are !

I've got the first drill-bit Handle printing now,
Doing it in Purple color !

I'm curious what type of testing was done to determine that .4mm nozzles is the Best?
Has anyone heard who and where decided that size was to be sold with these printers ?
I assume it was someone at Makerbot ?
Or did Makerbot Copy someone Else ?

Makerbot is an original design. Although somewhat open source so they actually where not really copied. Until a few years ago they to where considered open source.

Honestly though there is nothing about a 3d printer on the market right now that is unique. I am actually about to get rid of the mightyboard and it's dumb proprietary file format and switch to a Pibot controller and stepper drivers.

http://www.pibot.com/set-of-pibot-elect … 2-0-d.html

Or maybe just another RAMPS or similar that runs Marlin firmware so I can use the ever common STL format.

The last two printers I had not including the CTC or Da Vinci  came with .3 nozzles. I think .4 has just became common as it is the middle size of the available common sizes of .2 to .8mm.