I have a solidoodle and i have updated to a e3d v6 hotend.  I am very happy with the hotend.  I have been printing a lot of carbon fiber parts and the nozzle wears extremely fast because of this wear i have developed a jeweled tipped 3d printer nozzle.  I have printer about 4kg of material without noticing any wear.  How are the stainless tip working for you? 

if you are interested in the jeweled tip check out my site www.dura-gem.com

Thanks for the info.

Repetier .92 does support auto level but not for the Da Vinci.

The auto level algorithm that Repetier supports only works with printers that have move the Z with the X or Y. It will not work on a printer like the Da Vinci that the Z is the bed and only moves up or down. On other printers the bed is at the bottom and moves in the Y axis. The The X and the Z are combined. By doing so the Z can be varied at any coordinate on the bed. But when the bed is the Z there is no way to vary the Z at every coordinate as easily.

Now obviously I don't want to have it that far out but if that's what it does I would like to keep that feature in repetier.

I think I know what connecter it is on the main board but have been printing so haven't checked yet.

I printed a dial caliper mount and use that to level it rather then paper.

I have a davinci aio, and yes I have flashed it to repetier .92 since the stock firmware wouldn't really use up a cartridge. I opened up a "empty? and they still had lots of filament left in them. Plus even though when using the stock firmware and the printer said I had enough filament to print but not much it would say your cart is low change cart and would not print. so with the xyz  chips not even using the full listed amount and there being " extra" in my carts I decided to take the risk and flash it 5 days after I bought it. So I flashed it so I didn't have to worry about that.

The firmware works good with some minor changes to make it work with the Aio (cleaning spot is diff then 1.0a), the z probe spots are different ( simple fix to change the positions in the firmware),  the top cover sensor is always saying it is open even when it is closed so I just turned that sensor off.

yah I lose the scanner but truth be told the scanner didn't work that well.
I am happy with the firmware flash update, and now that I have voided my warranty I don't mind modifying it to get better prints.  This is why I put the e3d v6 in. That and I would like to print with the carbon fiber filament. But you need to have a different nozzle for that then the stock one since it will wear out the stock one since its abrasive. (stainless or at least be able to replace the bronze one)

I will check the cable once my current print is finished.  Again thanks for the help. while I am new to 3d printing I'm not afraid to try things.

Thanks for the post. I didn't add any wires other then adding +12 v for the fan for the HeatSink.
The hot end obviously is using the same power connecters so I know that didn't change.

I am reusing the daughter board that was in the carriage that has the filament sensor (turned off since the filament isn't going through it), thermistor connecter, 5v fan that has been repurposed for a filament cooling fan. What has changed is that the daughter board is no longer electrically connected to the print head.  I don't think that would make a difference but maybe it did?

I think some how I must have a wire shorted but I am not sure which one.
what I was looking to find is where it connects on the main board if any one knows then I can run continuity tests on the harness to find out what one is  messed up

I tried disconnecting the harness from the daughter board but that didn't make any difference in the z-probe return values.
so right now.

Other wise I am going just going to have to go through the process of trying to match them by trial and error.

Any one know what pins or connecters I need to check  I would like to re-enable z-prob for the auto bed level.

Right now I can print but I have been manually leveling the bed.