I have been learning sketch up to try my hand at a few prop pieces I have always wanted, and your work her is inspiring!

-Skyler101

thanks for sharing the files on this one.

My next major design project was going to be some form of prop gun, I haven't figured out what yet. But having this to look at will really help me avoid some mistakes and give me a bit of a starting point.

I wont share it, and of course will credit where it's due if I print it or base anything on it.

(and of course I'll share mine too)

This is the original Mark2 design with printed socket caps and screw heads.  If you want to add real hardware you'll need to find what fits and then drill into the parts to fit them.  I used these socket screws from www.boltdepot.com.  YMMV

4986    Socket cap, Alloy steel black oil finish, #4-40 x 1/2"   
12646    Socket flat head, Alloy steel black oil finish, #3-48 x 3/8"

A few points to ponder...

• The STL attached to this post is the same one that appears in the zipfile, so you don't have to download it.  It's just there to show you what one of the parts looks like.
  

• These parts DO NOT NEED SUPPORT!  The only pieces that would need support have it modeled into the part and the curved structures that don't need it, don't have it.

• The original size is inaccurate!  Print it at 40% scale rotated so the beauty-side is up.  20% infill is more than enough to ensure rigidity, but I've been able to print it with 10%.

• This model was designed with a .3 mm layer height in mind.  If you choose to go finer, feel free, but it will still look good at .3 mm;  it will just take a lot longer to print.

• All parts are either [name] or [name]-r.  The "r" denotes a reversed part.

• There are a lot of parts, but the Guide, Clip, Panel and Safety only need to be printed once.  Unless you want both sides to look the same, the print the "r" versions as well.

• The trigger will accomodate a small spring behind it to give it some feedback.  It isn't required, but it does make it feel a little better.

• The back end of the main body is a bayonet connection.  It WILL print weird but that's how it works. When the 2 halves are joined it allows the power cell to slide in and twist lock into place.

• If you have trouble with print curling, do not attempt this model until you feel you've got it licked.  If the 2 halves curl they will not join correctly and you will have to take means to get them to mate together.  I've tried acetone vapor and heat softening and they do not work as well as getting properly printed pieces.  If you have any curling in the first 2 layers, abort the print unless you can secure it back to the bed properly.  Trust me, you spend less time in finishing with properly printed, un-warped parts.

As a last... I'm releasing this only here... not on Thingiverse or anywhere else for that matter.  I would appreciate it if it didn't make it out there.  I know that I cannot stop it once it hits the web, but from a community standpoint, I would ask that you respect this and do not just pass it on.  I could sell the design easily, but I'd much rather that it be more open than that as it was a learning experience for me.  If someone really wants it, tell em to find it and download it, don't make it easy for 'em.

So ... finish my girlfriend's robot then start work on the props, see if I can make this thing work for me.

Same basic specs as before, but now the hardware is being held on by actual socket cap screws.  Tiny, but effective and they look a lot better than the printed versions. 

Also, the power cap and socket on the back was modified to print a bayonet connection so that the piece could  be removed and added for effect. 

The trigger is now a modeled piece that fits into a cavity in the body.  With a spring, there is a little action for the trigger pull; just giving a little feedback to the user.

The handle is now 3 pieces.  Two sides of the grip and the main handle piece which is glued into the main body.  The two handle pieces can be glued onto the handle or you can drill out the circles on the grips and use a couple of mating bolts to lock it onto the handle piece.

The sign is only necessary if you bring it out in public...
I brought this to the Strategicon Gateway Convention (www.Strategicon.net) and was just showing it around.  Too many people asked if it was 3D printed and if it actually worked... Really?!?  Seriously?!?  So the sign was mostly necessary.

EDIT:
And because sex sells... have a cosplayer (Kryssie) posing with the gun

Heh, thanx Manx!

As for action, you could probably rig up a rubber band in the main to flex the trigger giving you the action.  replacing it may be problematic, unless you make a compartment with a removable door that you'd just hot-glue into place so you can get at it at will.

this model is "static" (no moving part), and i will try to do a "moving" one (one where you can open the gun, and remove the bullets cylinder, moving trigger ..etc... not a tru "double action" trugger system.. but something fun to use.. )

the model will be based on the real "dragoon" colt. i found a full version on grabcad that i will use as a base, then add the special part of the cosmodraggoon..

Did you use a silver/grey filament, or just paint it silver?  Did you finish it in acetone, or just sand down and paint?

12 pieces?  That's about what mine will end up being as getting the details on the body require they be printed separately, but yours is definitely larger.  Mine is about the size of a SW .38 snub nose.

The inset hex bolts are modeled into the pieces, but the protruding ones are modeled into their respective pieces to print better (now, as they were too small on the original print above).  I'll probably have to modify the handle to have more perimeters as it seems a bit light at 5.