<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/topic/11465/e3d-hobb-goblin/ Sat, 19 Dec 2015 22:50:14 +0000 PunBB <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/112178/#p112178 140-145 is a good start. Recalibrate your extruder after installing to be certain.

]]> Sat, 19 Dec 2015 22:50:14 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/112178/#p112178 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/112173/#p112173 What should be the steps per mm for the 1/16?
Thanks

]]> Sat, 19 Dec 2015 21:40:11 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/112173/#p112173 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/99395/#p99395 I ordered some mk8 extruder gears a few months ago but have has to put printing on hold for a bit. These seem to be similarly sized, but hob goblin teeth look sharper.  Anyone have experience with both?

http://twelvepro.com/index.php?route=pr … duct_id=75

]]> Fri, 19 Jun 2015 00:26:56 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/99395/#p99395 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98804/#p98804 The imgur app on my phone is tweaking like hell, but I was able to crank an image off my phone of a result
http://i.imgur.com/s5hJLm8.jpg

E3D Lite6 w/ Hobb Goblin, Volcano .6 nozzle at .3951 layer height

]]> Sat, 13 Jun 2015 02:47:39 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98804/#p98804 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98776/#p98776 IronMan wrote:
mdrVB6 wrote:

Pics of how it cleared up your prints just a bit more?  I guess its possible but I feel like if your steps per mm were good before it shouldn't really make a difference.  Maybe if you were getting slipping on retractions before the sharper teeth are helping or something.

Since the HG drive diameter is considerably smaller than the standard SD drive gear (about 1/2 the diameter); you steps /mm need to be adjusted higher.  More steps / mm equals more precision in extruding...it is akin to going from 1/16 stepper drivers to 1/32.

^ what he said.

]]> Fri, 12 Jun 2015 18:56:50 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98776/#p98776 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98743/#p98743 I have been using these for the last few months.  I have run them on the dual Bowden for the Cyclops write up with .9 steppers at 1/32.  I have also run one with stock SD motor both at 1/16 and 1/32.  I have used every combination of E3d hot end, V5, V6, Lite6, & Volcano with a direct drive.  I've run (Volcano) every nozzle all the way up to 1.2 utilizing the Hobb Goblin.  This little mod works and coupled to a .9 motor and a DRV8825's has become my extruder of choice.  Set properly you should not have any moire.  And with extruders isn't that pretty much the test?  Add the weight savings over a BulldogXL and the fact that it's easy to load filament, not to mention the cost savings.  It never strips the filament, in fact it'll curl the filament below the drive if the nozzle is clogged even with a good guide tube right up to it.  If that can't move it'll stall the motor.  Gone are the days of using a brush to clean shavings out of your drive gear.
Very nice write up AZERATE.
I might mention that I am in no way affiliated with E3d, Filastruder or any other Reseller of E3d products.

]]> Fri, 12 Jun 2015 13:35:35 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98743/#p98743 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98741/#p98741 mdrVB6 wrote:

Pics of how it cleared up your prints just a bit more?

I sure can. I'll be away from my computer until tonight, so I'll post a couple before the day is out

]]> Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:45:08 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98741/#p98741 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98739/#p98739 mdrVB6 wrote:

Pics of how it cleared up your prints just a bit more?  I guess its possible but I feel like if your steps per mm were good before it shouldn't really make a difference.  Maybe if you were getting slipping on retractions before the sharper teeth are helping or something.

Since the HG drive diameter is considerably smaller than the standard SD drive gear (about 1/2 the diameter); you steps /mm need to be adjusted higher.  More steps / mm equals more precision in extruding...it is akin to going from 1/16 stepper drivers to 1/32.

]]> Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:16:44 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98739/#p98739 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98737/#p98737 Pics of how it cleared up your prints just a bit more?  I guess its possible but I feel like if your steps per mm were good before it shouldn't really make a difference.  Maybe if you were getting slipping on retractions before the sharper teeth are helping or something.

]]> Fri, 12 Jun 2015 11:57:37 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98737/#p98737 <![CDATA[Re: E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98734/#p98734 I use one in the extruder I whipped up to try on my core-xy:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/har … ruder.html

All I've done with it so far is feed the filament by hand and see that it does seem to work, actual printing remains to be seen...

]]> Fri, 12 Jun 2015 10:25:47 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98734/#p98734 <![CDATA[E3D Hobb Goblin]]> https://www.soliforum.com/post/98715/#p98715 E3D released a new item a few months ago and I find it odd that I have found little to no conversation on it. So here goes!
http://i.imgur.com/Xn8SEW7.jpg

The E3D Hobb Goblin is an upgrade to your extruder gear. The teeth are finer/sharper, and because of it's smaller profile, gives a bit more torque.
Here's a comparison of the Hobb Goblin vs stock gear.
http://i.imgur.com/VQmkqNU.jpg

I have already been testing it on various ABS, PLA, SSPLA, and Nylon, so all the norm for us. As an added bonus, if one were to attempt printing Carbon Fiber, it will grip it no problem, and E3D claim it to work just as well on flexible materials. SSPLA is hands down the most brittle filament I've come across and the Hobb Goblin did the job with far less breaking than with the stock gear (which only happened when loading filament).
I am impressed once again with E3D since a small $15 part that took less than one minute to install cleared up my prints just a bit more, so I highly recommend it!

My prints come out cleaner now and can almost give the silky results my Bulldog XL has. Keyword being "almost". smile If you are interested in this little gem, there are a couple points you should know:

*You will need to open EEPROM and adjust your steps per mm to the 285 ballpark for users with 1/32 stepping.
*This CANNOT be used with the traditional tension arm Lawsy designed, so wardjr was kind enough to whip up an adjusted design. This requires a 625zz bearing. So SD2/3 users are golden, but others will need a new radial bearing. Fortunately, they are only $5 +/- so it shouldn't be a problem.
The reason for this adjustment is because since the outer diameter of the Hobb Goblin is smaller, it creates a void between the bearing and the gear.
*There are two different sizes available; 5mm or 8mm. SD users want 5mm since that is the diameter of the motor shaft.
*This is a simple mechanical upgrade. So although I personally recommend a E3D hotend, one is not required to use the Hobb Goblin!

As usual, operators at Filastruder are awaiting your calls to fulfill all your E3D
needs!

]]> Fri, 12 Jun 2015 02:28:13 +0000 https://www.soliforum.com/post/98715/#p98715