Finally had a chance to get the pictures loaded up.  I am having problems getting the prints to finish, while the part of the print that does come out comes out amazingly smooth.  I am using the new thermister with the old heater core.  How do I go about changing the tables to account for the new thermister that came with the v6?  I have been successful in getting the Repetier FW onto the Da Vinci, but have driver issues with the Host and cannot for the life of me get it to install the Arduino Due drivers, it always reverts back to "USB Composite Device" and then fails to start, and I get no connection.  I have been successful in using the OpenMod/Slic3r combo, but have to use the 1.1.G FW on the printer, so no Repetier Host for me yet(have tried every recommended version of Arduino IDE, as well as Windows Vista, 7 and 8 with the same result.)
It seems like the printer does fine with the proper tension on the filament, but then it becomes difficult to extrude, or even to back out of the extruder.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I will definitely try the NeuStruder that browning54213 recommended as soon as I get a 100% complete print.  I'm afraid that I might have to reassemble the original carriage to do it, but I'm staying hopeful.

I assume you are using Adruino Suite to flash the firmware? If so the thermistor type and table can be selected in the configuration.h tab before you upload the firmware. But if you have no drivers how are you able to use Adruino?

You could also delete or uninstall the composite driver then install the DUE drivers again.

In short unless you can communicate with the machine through USB you cannot change the thermistor type or tables.

http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-hwmods … s-exturder

I run my NFlex at 20mm/s and have been getting great results. My vibration reducers have all been made using this setup.

The drive gear was not replaced.  It's the same stepper motor, with the same stock gear.  I have been unable to get the right drivers to install to do the repetier FW/Host combo.  The only trick has been to use the repetier XYZ OpenMod.  Adjusting the feed rate has worked beautifully to adjust for any differences in the extruder head.  Same diameter nozzle, same drive gear, same software.
I kept the original carriage so that if I need to do a direct drive for the NinjaFlex then I can.  But the bowden setup is working great except for the slight over extrusion which I can compensate for in the OpenMod/Slic3r settings.  I have pictures for proof, just can't upload them at the moment.

Not doubting,  just saying ever since flexible came out it was considered an industry taboo to use them in a bowden setup.  If you can make them work by tweaking and fudging numbers then good for you.

The normal process is to disconnect the bowden tube from the hot end.  Feed the filament till it is flush with the end of the tube. Then tell the printer to push 100mm of filament.  Once done measure the amount pushed from the edge of the tube outward.  Should be 100mm. If more than you need to lower your steps.  If less then raise your steps.

Also I am not sure where you heard the idea of flexible with a Bowden,  but that is usually a big no no in our little hobby world..  It won't feed and retract right due to it flexing inside the Bowden tube against the hot ends back pressure. It is very hard to control flow rate. Most printers designed for flexible use direct drive and have the filament guide in the extruder so close to the gears you could barely get a piece of paper between the guide and gears.