Hi Harvey welcome to the club

I got my printer several weeks ago, so maybe it will be helpful to summarize my first findings.
None of this is groundbreaking to veteren users or forum trollers here, but a little 101 never hurts-  and I found these tips to be even more important for if you move to Repetier and Slic3r:

Preparing for a print:

1)  Home everything-  eg. raise the bed fully, with the extruder in the far-right corner where it is not overlaying the bed.  This way it doesn't have to home when everything is set to print, and its easy to reach underneath with a pair of tweezers to remove any drooling plastic right before you hit print.

1a - Slic3r only?)  If you are using Slic3r and it's generating this command, remove it (or put a semicolon in front to disable it):

M109 S190 ; wait for temperature to be reached

This way when you hit print, it starts IMMEDIATELY.  I had problems with it trying to wait longer, during the meantime plastic is drooling out the tip, and it's unsafe to try and remove it because you have no idea when the tip will take-off.

2)  Turn your heated bed on about 15-20 min in advance.  If the target temperature is 90 degrees, give it long enough to get to ~85 minimum..  It's most important for the first layer, so you won't be easily forgiven if you skimp on this!

3)  Turn your extruder heat ONLY when the bed is nearly at the target temperature-  since it heats up in only a couple minutes.  Clogs could result if plastic is left cooking in the tip without being extruded for long periods of time.  As soon as the extruder reaches temp (I use 190), continue with step 4

4)  Extrude a few mm of plastic (I do 6mm) and remove it with tweezers. This way there is fresh plastic, the tip temp is stabilized, and the tip is clean.

5)  Start the print

Shutting down a completed print:

1) Turn off bed and extruder. Turn off motors as well, since stepper motors consume power even when they are not moving.

2) Wait a minute (or watch till the tip temperature just starts to fall),  then extrude a few mm of plastic (I do 6mm) and remove it with tweezers.  This helps drive the temperature down quicker towards the glass-transition point so no more plastic will drool out, and thus leaves fresh plastic and a clean tip.  Do just one extrusion and/or don't do it if the tip temp is less than 180.

3)  At this point, I hit disconnect and unplug the printer if I won't be printing more, or leave it on if I will be-  shouldn't matter a lot since all the major components are disengaged.

Using Pronterface and Skeinforge, I didn't really have first-layer sticking or other build quality problems. I think the raft made it work nicely every time, but then again you have the raft to peel off and it leaves quite obvious strips..

When I went to Repetier and Slic3r, I had first-layer sticking problems.  At first, I blamed this on Slic3r's lack of raft, but avoiding a raft is a desireable thing and therefore the following helped TREMENDOUSLY for me:

1)  Gently wipe down the bed surface with a paper towel and acetone-  especially if you have touched it with fingers or if it hasn't been cleaned since the factory.  With power off, naturally

2)  Use the 1a) trick from above to disable the 'wait for extruder temp' command.  Prior to this I was a) wondering what the hell it was waiting for when I clicked Run,  and  b) the drooling plastic ended up sticking to the tip and would brush against and dislodge my first layer... ruining the whole print.

3)  Enable Skirt.  For some reason, it wouldn't let me set 1 loop, so I'm using 2 loops.  This further helps ensure there is a clean tip with fresh plastic when it starts to lay down the first strand of your actual print.

4)  Configure Slic3r to slow down the first layer, and extrude more plastic for the first layer.  Lately I've been using 20mm/s first layer speed, and .55mm first layer extrusion width.

I'm pretty sure #4 was the clincher, for me.  I went from not being able to print a damn thing from Slic3r, to needing to firmly crack the part off the bed  (perhaps even too firmly).

Nice tips!

Used MakerGear hot ends for years.   What works best for me and gives fewer clogs is to back out some filament at the end, before a cool down.

I got my printer several weeks ago, so maybe it will be helpful to summarize my first findings.
None of this is groundbreaking to veteren users or forum trollers here, but a little 101 never hurts-  and I found these tips to be even more important for if you move to Repetier and Slic3r:

Preparing for a print:

1)  Home everything-  eg. raise the bed fully, with the extruder in the far-right corner where it is not overlaying the bed.  This way it doesn't have to home when everything is set to print, and its easy to reach underneath with a pair of tweezers to remove any drooling plastic right before you hit print.

1a - Slic3r only?)  If you are using Slic3r and it's generating this command, remove it (or put a semicolon in front to disable it):

M109 S190 ; wait for temperature to be reached

This way when you hit print, it starts IMMEDIATELY.  I had problems with it trying to wait longer, during the meantime plastic is drooling out the tip, and it's unsafe to try and remove it because you have no idea when the tip will take-off.

2)  Turn your heated bed on about 15-20 min in advance.  If the target temperature is 90 degrees, give it long enough to get to ~85 minimum..  It's most important for the first layer, so you won't be easily forgiven if you skimp on this!

3)  Turn your extruder heat ONLY when the bed is nearly at the target temperature-  since it heats up in only a couple minutes.  Clogs could result if plastic is left cooking in the tip without being extruded for long periods of time.  As soon as the extruder reaches temp (I use 190), continue with step 4

4)  Extrude a few mm of plastic (I do 6mm) and remove it with tweezers. This way there is fresh plastic, the tip temp is stabilized, and the tip is clean.

5)  Start the print

Shutting down a completed print:

1) Turn off bed and extruder. Turn off motors as well, since stepper motors consume power even when they are not moving.

2) Wait a minute (or watch till the tip temperature just starts to fall),  then extrude a few mm of plastic (I do 6mm) and remove it with tweezers.  This helps drive the temperature down quicker towards the glass-transition point so no more plastic will drool out, and thus leaves fresh plastic and a clean tip.  Do just one extrusion and/or don't do it if the tip temp is less than 180.

3)  At this point, I hit disconnect and unplug the printer if I won't be printing more, or leave it on if I will be-  shouldn't matter a lot since all the major components are disengaged.

Using Pronterface and Skeinforge, I didn't really have first-layer sticking or other build quality problems. I think the raft made it work nicely every time, but then again you have the raft to peel off and it leaves quite obvious strips..

When I went to Repetier and Slic3r, I had first-layer sticking problems.  At first, I blamed this on Slic3r's lack of raft, but avoiding a raft is a desireable thing and therefore the following helped TREMENDOUSLY for me:

1)  Gently wipe down the bed surface with a paper towel and acetone-  especially if you have touched it with fingers or if it hasn't been cleaned since the factory.  With power off, naturally

2)  Use the 1a) trick from above to disable the 'wait for extruder temp' command.  Prior to this I was a) wondering what the hell it was waiting for when I clicked Run,  and  b) the drooling plastic ended up sticking to the tip and would brush against and dislodge my first layer... ruining the whole print.

3)  Enable Skirt.  For some reason, it wouldn't let me set 1 loop, so I'm using 2 loops.  This further helps ensure there is a clean tip with fresh plastic when it starts to lay down the first strand of your actual print.

4)  Configure Slic3r to slow down the first layer, and extrude more plastic for the first layer.  Lately I've been using 20mm/s first layer speed, and .55mm first layer extrusion width.

I'm pretty sure #4 was the clincher, for me.  I went from not being able to print a damn thing from Slic3r, to needing to firmly crack the part off the bed  (perhaps even too firmly).

Thanks for the info about turning the heaters off, I didn't know (but as I unplugged I guess I'm OK). So once I've finished printing, in all cases I must click the "off" button on the right of Heater (I guess I might as well turn the Bed off too).

Alternatively I can just unplug the whole machine and that's it (I've done it twice now with no issue). Can someone confirm this?

Also, what happens if there's a power cut (electricty goes off in the house/town)? I guess nothing happens... it just stops?

Once the print stopped because the laptop went to sleep, I just unplugged (USB and mains), took the unfinished part out, and started again. Does that sound correct?

Last, is there a way to move the head/table around without mains plugged in (I do it currently using proterface)?

Sorry for all these beginner questions... it's just that it's only once you've got started that you think about these aspects.

Right now it's printing a pretty good looking rocket !

I'll print my company logo hopefully next!

Yes Harvey, It is best to make sure the extruder(hotend) is off unless you are ready to print with it.

The printer does not have buffer memory to allow prints to be stored on itself and print without a computer connected to it, there are however 3rd party electronics that can be used for this purpose.

As for unplugging it, if you will not be using the printer for more than a couple of hours I would just unplug it otherwise just make sure the extruder is off.

To move the head around in X and Y axis without the mains connected just push the (printhead)extruder stepper in the direction you want it to go... careful if it is still hot!!! as for moving the Z axis you must turn the threaded rod(yes the greasy part) if the bed is high enough you can turn it from the stepper coupling

Glad to hear you are enjoying printing things!

Alternatively I can just unplug the whole machine and that's it (I've done it twice now with no issue). Can someone confirm this?

Also, what happens if there's a power cut (electricty goes off in the house/town)? I guess nothing happens... it just stops?

Once the print stopped because the laptop went to sleep, I just unplugged (USB and mains), took the unfinished part out, and started again. Does that sound correct?

Last, is there a way to move the head/table around without mains plugged in (I do it currently using proterface)?

Sorry for all these beginner questions... it's just that it's only once you've got started that you think about these aspects.

Right now it's printing a pretty good looking rocket !

I'll print my company logo hopefully next!

A question now : Is there something special to do after the print. I mean I take my part out, and then what? I just click "reset", "disconnect" and then unplug SD2 from the mains? That's what I've just done, is that right?

Only hickup in install/setup was having to set the baud rate to 250000 (I was getting an obscure python unicode error before I did this, thanks to the forum for the help).

Looking forwards to start fine tunning and printing the real stuff I planned.

Also, I realise I went mad on the ABS rolls when I ordered (I ordered 5 rolls... that's enough to setup a business !! I didn't realise I big they were, 2 would have been plenty)