SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — How did YOU fix the bushing/platform gap issue?

Re: How did YOU fix the bushing/platform gap issue?

null@example.com (JakR4bbit) — Fri, 13 Mar 2015 02:28:10 +0000

I followed through with using plastic shim stock to remove the play between the platform and bushing. We'll see how it holds up. http://i.imgur.com/GjIgPKL.jpg

I managed to find some plastic shim stock at a local industrial supplier. Luckily I didn't have to order it. The shipping would have likely cost more than the sheet. I have a business relationship with the supplier, so he wound up giving me an entire 12" x 20" sheet of .010" shim stock. He said they've had it for years. It was a brand new sheet. I only needed to use around 1 square inch of it. Some was wasted trying to get the size correct.

I started with a single strip, which did fill up the gap nicely but still left a small amount of play. Two strips stacked together wouldn't go, so I wound up wrapping a single strip with the same orange tape that the Da Vinci is covered with out of the box. This was very snug and removed all the play. I stuffed it in as far as I could by hand, then grabbed the edge with some side cutters and forced it further in. Based on my situation, it seems the ideal shim thickness would be around .013"-.016".

Re: How did YOU fix the bushing/platform gap issue?

null@example.com (JakR4bbit) — Tue, 10 Mar 2015 01:14:37 +0000

tonyno wrote:

I just printed some thin shims and inserted them into the gap between the bushing and frame.

Do you remember the thickness?

Re: How did YOU fix the bushing/platform gap issue?

null@example.com (tonyno) — Tue, 10 Mar 2015 01:10:50 +0000

I just printed some thin shims and inserted them into the gap between the bushing and frame.

Re: How did YOU fix the bushing/platform gap issue?

null@example.com (carl_m1968) — Tue, 10 Mar 2015 01:00:04 +0000

Well for me the glass was slightly smaller in the frame. I used folded sand paper to fill the gap then used an exacto knife to cut it flush with the glass.

For the loose bushings on the right side I cleaned them as best I could on all the external areas as well as the plastic housing around them with 90% alcohol.

I then glued them in place with my favorite adhesive called GOOP.

How did YOU fix the bushing/platform gap issue?

null@example.com (JakR4bbit) — Tue, 10 Mar 2015 00:54:10 +0000

Like many others I've read about, my 1.0A has a bed movement issue attributed to the loose fit between the bed (or platform?) and bronze bushings on the right-side Z axis rails. I'm getting slight layer movement, but nothing unacceptable. My biggest problem is that I know it's there, regardless of how good my prints look. The front right corner of the bed vibrates considerably during fast X/Y movements and it drives me insane.

I'm not sure if I'm just using the wrong terminology, but I haven't been able to find many ideas in the way of fixes. Most of the solutions I've come across involve jamming a piece of metal between the bushing and the plastic to remove the play. I've read of a few people using epoxy or hot glue to fill the void between the two pieces. I worry about damage by jamming a piece of steel into the gap, and glue seems to permanent. If something should go wrong that requires disassembly, clearing out the glue may be an issue.

Does anyone know of a more "legit" fix? A replacement part? A printable part? If there are none, my last ditch solution will be purchasing a sheet of plastic shim stock from McMaster-Carr and filling the gap with it as needed. This will be more forgiving than steel shims and less permanent than glue/epoxy.

Just looking for ideas from anyone else that has successfully fixed the issue before I commit to what I'm hoping will work.