The machine suddenly stops mid-print and makes this 'grinding' sound,
it then only prints on one axis...like as if the other axis just 'gave up'

I've had a similar issue with the SD2, and it required 'tightening' the belts. 

I however read to my chagrin:  You can't do that with this printer...it's all
'closed up' to try and make it 'consumer friendly'

I'm starting to have deep concerns for this product.  Solidoodle can't continue
marketing this thing as a 'plug and print' machine.  Short of a recall, I can't
figure out how they can solve the myriad of problems which seems to keep
piling up with this machine.

This machine desperately needs:

- Clean technical videos (not something shot on a smartphone) 'how to' fixes.
- FIRMWARE UPDATE!  The press seems less 'responsive' and slower for some reason. The SD2 however is far more accessible.
- Instructions on how to safely open/modify this machine. 

Cervantes made it clear there were issues with this machine, but from what I read, it
was more over the casing/tooling.  There are some innovations with this machine, namely
a fully accessible printing head...but the rest of the machine?

It's an evolving disaster.  I don't think I can trust this machine for anything marginally serious.
Had I know it would have been this problematic, I would have opted for some other 3D printing machine.

I'm sure a major firmware update as well as a complete overhaul of Soliprint

"The Solidoodle Press is a revolution in consumer 3D printing. As a true plug-and-play machine, the Press is the ideal printer for users new to 3D printing. With its sleek design, the Press has been designed to fit in your space."

framecut wrote:

3D printing is not ready
for the masses by a longshot.

+1000. It's better than 2 or 3 years ago but not by much.

But if the average consumer knew this they might not buy one...

So True!

So even when the time comes where a sub $1,000 printer is truly plug and play (and maintenance free...NOT); the next great divide will be the fact that only a very small percentage of users actually have the skill and/or talent to create models they wish to print...unless they are happy to download from Thingiverse...

3D printing is not ready
for the masses by a longshot.

+1000. It's better than 2 or 3 years ago but not by much.

But if the average consumer knew this they might not buy one...

- Set the temperature to 245C
- Blast...a LOT of hairspray on the bed...a sick amount where you see the spray
almost as a mild paste.
- just leave the top somewhat open/resting on the door.
- USE REPETIER.  AVOID SOLIPRINT!!!!!!

It's been a crazy past couple days...but I'm glad to finally get this thing working,
after so much trial and a whole lotta errors.

G28.G29 gets the calibrator working!  Thank trayracing!

I'm finally starting to get some decent test prints...cranking up the temperature to 235C
is a real change from my usual 200C for ABS.  Still, the SD Press can handle the temp (or can it?)

Some new quirks.

- I need to USB unplug/replug and basically keep doing this ritual until Repetier 'notices'
the printer.

I miss the inability of manually tweaking the platform...I just don't trust the auto calibrate just yet.

I tried printing by turning the heat off and using extra-hold hairspray:  No dice.  ABS went all over the place.
Turned on the heat to 105C and it now sticks.

Summary:  This machine is a step forward, step backwards.  The open/ease of access to the print head
makes fixing jams a breeze.  However, the difficulty to get one's hands inside the machine will prove to be a chore.

One thing I noticed:  WAIT for the print head to cool down.  When the ABS originally jammed,  I opened
up the print head, and allowed that 230C head to simply 'dangle'.  The heating element
popped out! (It's  a cylindrical device),  the chances of the two cables holding the print head
becoming damaged were high. 

Patience and a lot of past experience is required for this machine.  You basically need to work
'around' the 'consumerishness' of it to make it really work.  There's no way a straightfoward
'follow the manual' print would work.  No way.

Alright, last time I rant on that aspect.

I finally got the press to print out something decent.  However:

- The ABS that came with the printer 'snapped' twice so far,  requiring me to take apart
the extruder head and with the tweezers, 'pluck' out the loose piece. 

- I found the machine operated better with the top open/resting on the front lid.  That
way the cables don't bunch up/causing issues. 

- The main cable to the extruder kept getting jammed in the corner.  I placed
a small tie which solved that problem.

- The Z-axis calibration is still hit/miss.  Not crazy how sometimes the machine will press
like crazy against the glass...surprised the glass bed hasn't exploded/shattered.

I am able to work/sort out the problems with this printer...but in NO WAY is it
a 'click/print' system.  I would be very remiss to get this as a 'gift' for some soccer
Mom and her children.  I can only picture burnt fingers/pain!

1) Z-Offset calibration works. It does, if only you learn the quirks of getting ABS to stick to your platform (tip, use an unheated platform with just hairspray)

2) Additionally, the auto bed leveling works with ANY print software so I dont know why you dinged that. It works, and it works well. Even if your printer's bed is crooked it does a pretty decent job of adjusting to a certain extent.

3) I have no problems with my extruder at all, unless ABS delaminates while printing of course.

4) ABS feeder is meh, it hasn't failed me yet but I see tons of people are really picky so just print yourself one of those mods to mount the print spool externally if that really bothers you

5) I love the closed system as it makes opening a window much less of a problem than when you have an open system and you risk having cool air ruin your print

HOWEVER:

that since my print bed heating element died in the second day of printing (sad I know) I've had more success printing without the heated bed than with. Lol what? ABS without a heated bed and no tape?
Hairspray + no heated bed = best 0.1mm printing results so far.

Also SoliPrint: my Soliprint installation has died out completely, thereby causing slic3r to stop producing GCode so while this was broken my printer stopped printing anything but one file. This needs to be fixed ASAP.

However with this breakdown I discoverd something amazing

The best results from this printer I've had so far are:

1) Use CURA to render GCode for you, USe SoliPrint to print the GCode
2) Use no heated glass bed and 15-20mm brims on all prints with hairspray and it will work wonders way above dry hairspray on heated bed for ABS.
3) Open GCode directly in SoliPrint and hit print.

My two cents,

Cheers

Seven

- Closure makes it very difficult to clean the nozzle/bed. 

- Had the joy of the tweezers slipping out of my hand and the super pointy
end falling/impaling the lower part of my leg (I was wearing shorts). Nice to see
blood coming from a 'family machine'.

- Soliprint is a complete disaster.  You need to 'drag' these sliders endlessly
just to move the head closer to you to clean...imagine having to do this 5-6 times a day?

- I followed the instructions to a tee, and wanted to do a test print.  Nothing would stick
to the glass plate, and the instructions were badly done:  I didn't know I had to 'pull out'
the sensor!  Maybe more diagrams?  This is after all new technology here!

- My first print,  None of the ABS that came with the printer would print..it began 'bunching' up
on the nozzle and making a mess.  I hit the 'STOP' button...and then the machine began making
this 'grinding' sound.  Went on for a minute before I reached in and unplugged the machine.

- Plugs.  To access the USB/Power, you need to 'tilt' the machine towards you to reach it.  I know
the designers didn't want you to access this...but how else am I to stop the machine if it starts acting up?

- Top it off...the ABS strangely 'snapped' off after the print head moved around and the ABS became entangled
with the print head.  To the credit of the Solidoodle people: The print head is incredibly easy to dissasemble/maintain.
Two screws and you're right in there.  Still, for a 'family' 3D printer?  Far more complex than say, replacing
a spark plug/etc.  You need customized tools and patience/understanding of how these extruders work.

I think in the end...I'll probably end up remouving the plastic body and stripping the machine down to
an easily accessible open frame.  Also, go back to using Repetier.  I had high hopes for the auto calibration,
but that's not enough incentive to use Soliprint.

Summary,  I would not recommend this machine as a 'family device'.  It's not a 'click/print' machine,  it still has a
lot of the trappings of the older SD machines.

Also, note to the people Solidoodle:  Please make a Soliprint Pro.

I want to emphasize:  I'm really happy with my SD2 machines.  They have incredible quirks...but if
you beat/torture these machines enough...you will get results.  However the learning curve is incredibly
steep and unless you are willing to put aside serious time/effort/patience:  3D printing is not ready
for the masses by a longshot.