Have you ever looked at the temp chart when this happens?  Sounds like it is hitting max temp which should be 220.  If it is overshooting by that much you may want to do PID auto tune.(instructions in WIKI)

I have followed the http://www.soliwiki.com/PID_tuning instructions previously but can do so again and will watch the temperature chart more closely next print. I did not know that the maximum/shutoff temperature was 220'C.

wardjr wrote:

If I remember correctly when I used the stock hot end with ABS I used a temp of 215.

If the temperature graph ever breaks 210'C then Repetier Host kills all heating immediately and crashes such that I have to physically disconnect and reconnect the printer USB cable and restart the program.

Have you ever looked at the temp chart when this happens?  Sounds like it is hitting max temp which should be 220.  If it is overshooting by that much you may want to do PID auto tune.(instructions in WIKI)

Yep it's an antispam feature of the forum once you have 10 posts you can post links.  It just makes a thread much easier to follow if the picture is right there as you read.

Infinitely so.

If I remember correctly when I used the stock hot end with ABS I used a temp of 215.

If the temperature graph ever breaks 210'C then Repetier Host kills all heating immediately and crashes such that I have to physically disconnect and reconnect the printer USB cable and restart the program.

Also want to mention that there are several other ways to attach an image that are more friendly than Pinterest.  So if you'd like me to be able to view them just attach the file or use imgur.

I tried attaching and tried linking but the forum wouldn't let me do either, so I needed something where I could specify the image easily enough for someone to figure it out without actually writing a link. I assume that is a new-user limitation and will go away eventually.

Edit: In fact, that limitation appears to be gone now so I'll update my posts so they're more useful in the future.

This is where you adjust the extrusion multiplier.  Just for clarification for a .35 nozzle (which fits the age of your printer) you want a nozzle diameter of .35 and your extrusion widths set to .42
When you print the cube you then measure with a caliper and in Slic3r adjust extrusion multiplier until that wall thickness is actually .48  it should be set in the range of .7 - .9. If it is way off that mark then it is possible you are still fighting a clog.

Very good; I'm glad I understood that correctly. So, since I measured 0.44mm width (average between the second, third, and fourth sides) I've reduced the Slicer Filament profile extrusion multiplier from 1.0 to 0.95 (0.42 target divided by 0.44 actual) for this particular spool of filament.

Unfortunately, the build quality is still extremely poor / sickly / problematic:
http://imgur.com/gallery/OLhBh9K - small hollow pyramid

http://imgur.com/gallery/vOgAAuN - 15mm solid cube (20% honeycomb infill, 3 perimeters horizontal and vertical)

The reason I printed 2 such cubes is that I found my Slic3r Printer profile had a 0.4mm nozzle while I was double checking. I'm pretty sure I remember ordering this thing with the .35mm nozzle. I think I may have increased it to 0.4mm so that the default 0.4mm Slic3r Print profile would work (since otherwise Slic3r crashes every time that the layer height is greater than the nozzle diameter) without having thought through why that number might be used. So I ran an extrusion calibration cube once each with 0.35mm nozzle + 0.42mm width setting and 0.4mm nozzle + 0.48 width setting. The 0.35mm nozzle settings produced a cube with 0.44mm walls whereas the 0.4mm nozzle settings produce a cube with 0.64mm walls (trying to carefully measure only the top 2-3 layers). I'm going to try sticking with the 0.35mm nozzle settings because the results look closest to what they should be.

However, the cubes do not look nearly as good as the test cube on cisana.net ("Extruder Calibration" Posted on August 16, 2013 by flurin). Both of my cubes start each layer under-extruded such that the "first" side is full of length-wise holes due to the extruded filament being too thing and spindly/wispy. The second and third sides look okay and the fourth side looks passable. I assume that is because the filament retracts and returns in between each layer. Is there a way to improve upon this, or is that a result of the likely-still-partially-clogged nozzle?

You can just draw a solid cube 20x20x10 the. Slice it by selecting one perimeter and zero infill 1 bottom layer and no top layer.  This will give you a hallow cube with no top.
The .42 extrusion width is a leftover from when the SD's came with a .35mm nozzle.  They now have a .4 nozzle and 120% of nozzle diameter accounts for he die swell as the plastic leaves the nozzle.  SD needs to change that in the firmware along with the e steps that are way off.
You can get by without changing your extrusion widths but I don't reccomend it.  Just change them to .48 it helps with adhesion if you decrease the first layer width to say .36 this will create more tool paths that are closer together.

Yes, I've had mine since 2012 and this is the first trouble I've had with it, so I still have the 0.35mm nozzle. That doesn't explain why the e-steps are so far off though.

The slicing options on the otherwise solid cube is brilliant. So obvious after you know that trick - I love it. Thanks!

I have explained this countless times and if I have to again I might have a hemorrhage. I did a writeup here:
http://www.soliforum.com/post/83278/#p83278

That is a wonderful writeup, jagowilson. Thanks for writing and providing the link!

That clarifies that I do in fact want the default profile extrusion widths of 0.42 because the nozzle is 0.35mm. However, I'm still not clear on how on requests a single perimeter (besides setting the Slic3r print profile to a minimum of 1 perimeter).