SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Electronics & Hardware

xyz pro 1 W error code 0040

null@example.com (knigel6) — Tue, 10 Jun 2025 06:57:37 +0000

Hi all can someone please help me to overcome this problem which happened half way through a very large print which was a figure in two half's the full build area hight. I have tried 3 different SD cards 8 Gb scandisk class 10 with several different format options I have tried the reset option in settings. Now the printer is doing very strange things, in the menu options change cartridge the heater heats straight up to 205 degrees, in the change extruder and unload filament heating up to 205 degrees full temperature but on the pre heat setting it rises to 90 0r 94 degrees and then cools down, strange ? but if I try to print something I get the dreaded error 0040. I am sure I can not be the first to encounter this problem so can someone please help me

My latest attempts to get rid of this problem I have upgraded the firmware from 1.3.8 to 1.4.2 replaced the sd card holder on the motherboard tried more sd cards from 4Gb to 8Gb and 16 Gb but nothing changes what I cant understand is without an sd card the printer will not boot, insert an sd card any of the aforesaid sizes and the printer boots and initialises surely this must mean that the printer is recognising the card and so WHY can it not read or write to it ? Please can someone give me some answers

Replacement stepper motors for X/Y

null@example.com (xiangrikui) — Mon, 24 Jun 2024 07:33:40 +0000

Does anyone know where I can find replacement stepper motors for the Wantai 42BYGHM809 motors?
I've looked online and can't seem to find these anywhere (except eBay, and I don't shop on eBay at all). If there's an alternative that works on X/Y, that's fine. My biggest problem is that I can't find 48mm (48N-cm) motors and am wondering if other sizes will work as well.
I found these: https://www.oyostepper.de/goods-64-Nema … motor.html
Will they work?

need help DaVinci 1.0 no errors but also not working

null@example.com (Bjoern) — Wed, 14 Sep 2022 04:24:27 +0000

Hi, I got this printer 2nd hand and it seems that there is something wrong with it:
In the present state I haven't loaded a spool of material as I want to test all the moving functions first.

From the front button menu I go into utilities, unloading filament --> message wait heating up, 10 degrees C.
In fact the temperature displayed it too low, the extruder is not heating at all nor is the fan running.
There is no voltage on the PCB outputs to the extruder heater (the heater has 7 ohm resistance and should be ok).

Now what condition do I need to see the extruder heating up (do I need to load a filament spool first) ?
Why is the temp too low ?

If I use the JOG option under utility I can drive all the axes with the push buttons except the -Z for the table to go upwards.
The table is easy to move by hand (no mech. issues) and the optical end switch is working (I measured it) so there must be something else preventing the movement.
I believe the motor and driver for the Z axis are OK, I changed the driver IC and had the same behavioral afterwards.
The software and firmware are up to date according to the notebook connected.
Could there be still an issue with the software in the SD card ?

Large Stepper Motor

null@example.com (jmsmrc) — Tue, 29 Jun 2021 15:33:38 +0000

Hello all, I am in the process of building a large 3D Printer. I have an Anet A8 mainboard and am using a Nema 23 4 amp stepper motor.

Can anyone tell me how to wire a 4 amp stepper motor the the Anet A8. I have a TB6600 Stepper Driver however the only wiring I can find on the web is to an arduino,

want to buy x axis wire for davinci duo

null@example.com (travis9791) — Sat, 06 Mar 2021 20:30:58 +0000

I am looking to buy a replacement x axis motor wire that goes from the circuit board to the motor on my davinci duo. I have seen the videos on how to solder in a new wire. However i think that may be above my skill level. Also i am concerned that the problem is where the wire connects to the connector itself. So i'm not sure reusing connector and splicing in wire will solve my problem. Also i was wondering if anyone knows what connectors are used at the circuit board and motor. I'm thinking if i knew what the connectors were i might be able to find the same wire that is used on a different machine. XYZ customer support has been useless and i havent had any luck finding replacement part elsewhere.

MakerBot Replicator 2X - 3rd Party Board

null@example.com (tonnic) — Sat, 23 Jan 2021 19:25:08 +0000

Hi,
I'm new to the forum and I was recommended to start a new thread instead of reviving an old thread here, so that is what I am doing .

I picked up a MakerBot Replicator 2X and I am not 100% certain what is wrong with it, but here are some of my symptoms:

Front panel keeps making a noise and cycling

When I connect to the printer with OctoPrint and GPX plugin, when I send a file to print the beeping stops, but the machine doesn't actually print. The heads move but nothing really happens...could be extruder related?

I tried sailfish firmware, but something seemed wrong. When I tried to extrude from one of the extruders, it would move the head along the x axis, and the octoprint buttons wouldn't move the print head in the right direction. With stock firmware, it worked as intended

With the sailfish firmware loaded, when it started to look like it was going to print, it just reboots the printer

I don't have a huge budget, so I'm trying to figure out what to do. I don't need the front panel, so worst case scenario, I can just unplug it and use OctoPrint with the GPX plugin enabled.

I thought it was extruder related, but I'm not quiet certain how to fix it. I've tried some of the thingiverse extruder alternatives, but that didn't seems to solve it either.

Any suggestions?

Geeetech A30t pulley issue

null@example.com (Cammy) — Tue, 29 Sep 2020 21:15:00 +0000

I bought the A30t from Geeetech, and it's been alright, except for the fact that the models tend to drift in the middle of printing on occasion. After some experimentation and watching, I think I narrowed it down to the drive belt for the extruder- or, more precisely, the fact that there's little tension on the belt and that the side opposite the drive motor is a toothless pulley for some reason. As of now, I've replaced the pulley with a printed gear that seems to be working far better, though it does cause different (though much more minor) printing issues as the hole in the gear is a little too big for the bolt that serves as an axle and thus it shifts around a little during operation.

I've been trying to adjust the gear through iterations, trying to compromise between size (putting tension on the belt) and how tightly it holds to the axle, but I can't seem to hit just the right balance. Is there a better solution for this problem other than trial and error? Failing that, is there a program that could allow me to shrink the hole without reducing the overall size of the gear?

Solidoodle 3 cables coming off

null@example.com (teddetheo) — Mon, 04 May 2020 08:35:54 +0000

So, I have had a Solidoodle 3 for a few years. Haven't got a successful print for around 2 years now, mainly because I gave up on trying to fix it after it just went crazy with problems (and literally crazy trying to print everywhere and nowhere at one point).
Seems like some rest did it perfectly. Tested it Saturday, no problem.
I Decided I should try to print some stuff, but as I was looking through models on thingiverse, since I haven't used it for 2 years, I forgot to unload my filament and shut it off. Of course, I got a horrible clog from the Nozzle all the way up through the PEEK barrel and I can not for the life of me get it out with tools or a cold-pull (since part of the stuck filament isn't actually melted and the clog itself is just far too big. I suspect it's charred inside the nozzle as well).
So, after trying simple methods I decided I had to remove the nozzle and try to get the clog out that way.

I got my tools and started working. I noticed some cables in between the nozzle and heater block (I believe thermistor cables?) were kind of following along a little. Not too bad, just hold them back. I kept going, and it was working well. Until one of the cables came straight loose. It's completely flat for over 1 cm and I really don't understand why it would end up following with it and coming loose but I had to stop before I ripped out the second cable.

The only thing I wanted to do was check if it worked and then sell it relatively cheap, so I could use the money to help fund a new printer. I am not in a position to be changing cables in this thing on my own because I will probably break something else. I have someone who might be able to help me out, but I am not too sure.
Anyone got any ideas?

(P.S: Sorry for the poor image quality, I had to quickly take a picture. I can provide more pictures later on if needed)

Solidoodle 3 Motherboard to Hot End Wire

null@example.com (apetrosky) — Tue, 21 Apr 2020 23:24:30 +0000

Does anyone know the name of the red wire assembly that runs from the motherboard to the hot end connector? I have one that shorted out and I need to replace it.

Flashforge Creator Dual LCD issues

null@example.com (pub1tzu) — Tue, 21 Apr 2020 20:07:06 +0000

The LCD on my Creator has been glitching and I cannot see the screen. I can still operate the printer, but I didn't save a layout of the different screens, so I cannot tell what I am telling it to do.

I see two options.

Does anybody have the menu structure or would somebody be able to take pictures of the various screens to help me build a menu structure.

If I can't build a menu structure, how do I find a replacement screen? Are there specifications I need to know in order to get a screen that I can just put in it's place?

And does anybody know where I can find schematics or diagrams to help me disassemble this machine as necessary to get to the guts?

If you can help with this it would be greatly appreciated.

I hope all are well, in this time or world crisis.

Thank you

Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

null@example.com (cyberfez) — Sun, 05 Jan 2020 14:52:24 +0000

I had an issue where intermittently the y-axis was skipping a fraction of a mm. It was making my life a bit of a hell. So I read up that maybe i should check the voltages on the trims. I did this for the offending y-axis and after that the controller is not sending commands to the motors. I dont remember hitting anything with the multimeter probs etc. It connects to the usb fine and reports on screen (repertier) that it is connected to the printer and even the firmware msg gets written to screen. The laptop detects fine. connects fine. I hit the home command to send the printhead to its zero position and nothing happens.

The led is lit on the mobo.

no smell of magic smoke or anything.

here is a video of the original issue - https://youtu.be/NtxZoumyfes

What should I try next? What usually blows in them?

If I am up for a new mobo - what will drop straight into my Solidoodle 3?

Here are the images of my mobo.

Cyberfez

DaVinci 1.0 A Printer "wifi upgrade"

null@example.com (hecbom) — Wed, 18 Dec 2019 15:04:13 +0000

Hi Everyone Long Story, I have a brand new DaVinci 1.0 A never been used. I want to replace the board with a 1.0 A Pro board so I can connect my printer to my Computer wireless. I have my Printer in the Garage and my PC in my room. Anyone know of a board replacement with wifi that can be swapped? Can I use a board from a Pro? if so, where can I get the board. Thanks in Advance!

Day vinci 1.0 pro control board replacement

null@example.com (Shadowspere) — Sun, 08 Dec 2019 15:43:03 +0000

When trying to find out why my extruder wasn't heating up and looking to test the right fuse, I shorted my board. It pops up as if the firmware was wiped, doesn't show up in my computer as connected and the fan runs at top speed. I believe the board is done and I just want to place it with one that do the same as the one I currently have but maybe better.

I have a day vinci pro 1.0 with laser optional attachment. ( appears to use the same board as a 3 in 1)

Any help or suggestion would be appreciated attached is a photo of my control board.

So I killed my board. What are the latest/best upgrade options

null@example.com (kgkern01) — Tue, 01 Oct 2019 14:17:42 +0000

I have a SD4, just upgraded to the e3D V6. The prints then became wavy after the v6, so as I attempted to adjust the trimpots I must've shorted something out when measuring the voltage with the multimeter, because now the USB port no longer is recognized as connected. So now it appears that I need a new board. I'm a developer so I'm software savvy, but not hardware, not as much. What are the best options to upgrade the board with that are close to plug and play (no soldering needed) but that also allow for better prints over the Printrboard?

**I know there are other threads on this, but a lot of them are a few years old, so I wanted to make sure I'm getting a current answer

shortcicuited the filastruder

null@example.com (Daan voort) — Wed, 04 Sep 2019 12:38:53 +0000

Hello all,

I basically turned on the filastruder and saw some smoke, then took at least a second to turn it off again. I was a amazed that someone left two open wires next to each other connected to 5v and ground. The wires were attached parallel to the fans on the picture.

After this happened the screen doesnt do anything but showing me beautiful white rectangles
(photo) http://prntscr.com/p1p4vh

I was hoping that there was something like an Arduino Uno inside which you could easily reset, but at last...

I hope someone can help me.

Thank you for you time, Daan.