The chipping will happen rather you use tape or not. It is caused by heating and cooling cycles and the fact they did not use tempered glass as they should. It is just a matter of time when chips start.
I did not know that. Based on posts i have seen in various places I thought it was due to people removing the prints too early or without any adhesive.
I luckily purchased one of the replacement beds that use borosilicate glass from one of the users on this forum (saw the post on another forum first). I haven't installed it yet as I would rather just use the stock one until it breaks and then change it out.
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:Are you waiting till the entire part and bed cools to room temp. Usually an hour or so after print finishes. If you let it completely cool through out, the part should just slide off.
I always wait for the part to cool off completely, sometimes hours (when printing overnight). I have also adjusted my bed temp to be start at 95, then go to 90 at layer 5 and 85 at layer 10.
carl_m1968 wrote:In addition if your bed is adjusted right you should not even need the tape and on small parts you don't even need glue.
I manually adjust using the paper trick and then set an z-offset at about .10-.15mm. The offset is for first layer issues. In any case, the offset should not make the issue worse because its increasing the distance between the head and the heated bed.
While I don't *need* tape, I use the tape because I don't want to risk chipping the glass. I have heard too many stories where users chipped the glass without using glue or tape.
The chipping will happen rather you use tape or not. It is caused by heating and cooling cycles and the fact they did not use tempered glass as they should. It is just a matter of time when chips start. I just got my first they other day and am going to get a piece of tempered to put over the existing glass to take some of the stress.
]]>Are you waiting till the entire part and bed cools to room temp. Usually an hour or so after print finishes. If you let it completely cool through out, the part should just slide off.
I always wait for the part to cool off completely, sometimes hours (when printing overnight). I have also adjusted my bed temp to be start at 95, then go to 90 at layer 5 and 85 at layer 10.
In addition if your bed is adjusted right you should not even need the tape and on small parts you don't even need glue.
I manually adjust using the paper trick and then set an z-offset at about .10-.15mm. The offset is for first layer issues. In any case, the offset should not make the issue worse because its increasing the distance between the head and the heated bed.
While I don't *need* tape, I use the tape because I don't want to risk chipping the glass. I have heard too many stories where users chipped the glass without using glue or tape.
]]>Hi everyone,
When I got my DaVanci 1.0, I use the UHU stick that came with it and then started using purple elmers gluesticks since then.
I recently purchased a 100ft roll of 200mm kapton tape and finally figured out a good method for putting it on. It hold really well, in fact sometimes too well.
Every other print actually rips the kapton because it adheres so well.
I have heard that people have used kapton over and over without issue. Are there any tricks to getting the part to release.
I was thinking of using glue as well, to make it stick well but not damage the kapton.
Are you waiting till the entire part and bed cools to room temp. Usually an hour or so after print finishes. If you let it completely cool through out, the part should just slide off.
In addition if your bed is adjusted right you should not even need the tape and on small parts you dont even need glue.
]]>When I got my DaVanci 1.0, I use the UHU stick that came with it and then started using purple elmers gluesticks since then.
I recently purchased a 100ft roll of 200mm kapton tape and finally figured out a good method for putting it on. It hold really well, in fact sometimes too well.
Every other print actually rips the kapton because it adheres so well.
I have heard that people have used kapton over and over without issue. Are there any tricks to getting the part to release.
I was thinking of using glue as well, to make it stick well but not damage the kapton.
]]>