w_smith wrote:

Why does the PLA extruder temperature jump from 180 to 215 after the first 5 minutes?  Is that related?

In the RH window, click on Printer Settings in the top right corner. The extruder temp setting may not reflect the temp settings you have in Slic3r. If that looks good, go into Slic3r under Filament Settings and check your extruder temp there. It will say "First Layer" and Other Layers". Make sure these are the same.

Remember that PLA requires a fan.

Doh!  I was using the gcode from the slicer when it was set for ABS.  I guess I'm surprised it worked at all (PLA at 215 with no active cooling?) but now I just have to reslice everything for PLA...

Or edit the gcode file to change the temperature.  Much easier, unless you try to use the Repetier Host software, which _has_ an edit function, but no search.  8*|  FWIW, change M104 Sxxx to the appropriate value in degrees C.

Why does the PLA extruder temperature jump from 180 to 215 after the first 5 minutes?  Is that related?

In the RH window, click on Printer Settings in the top right corner. The extruder temp setting may not reflect the temp settings you have in Slic3r. If that looks good, go into Slic3r under Filament Settings and check your extruder temp there. It will say "First Layer" and Other Layers". Make sure these are the same.

Remember that PLA requires a fan.

Just remove the bottom aluminum And put the white printed part in its place. It takes just a few seconds.

Edit: although I don't have the side fan on I can assure it will still fit if you leave it.

- I have two stock hot-ends, one mangled/rebuilt one for PLA and one new unused one for ABS (well, as soon as the proper connectors arrive, don't get me started), plus a spare PEEK adapter, so I've got a bit of cash invested in the stock parts.

- They are pretty easy to swap out on the SD4, one screw, two connectors (well, see above), and then I can get back to printing while I disassemble, burn out, clean out, rebuild, and set up the other hot-end.

- Since I'm still using the stock center carriage, it's looking easier to have an adapter made for the E3D than to convert everything over to Only-E3D and toss my stock hot-ends in the junk box.

Nurg!  After saying everything was working, halfway through a print of the Escher Lizard  from
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39247 something went "grind" and shifted about 8 mm on the Y axis.  I _think_ the filament was binding up, so I've fiddled with my spool holder and am trying again.

Why does the PLA extruder temperature jump from 180 to 215 after the first 5 minutes?  Is that related?

Just curious but why do you have interest in using the stock hotend? I never want to go back

If you haven't installed your e3d yet, I recommend just throwing it on, you'll quickly see the need for nothing else!

+1

If you haven't installed your e3d yet, I recommend just throwing it on, you'll quickly see the need for nothing else!

Glad you are running again. Just got my machine back up after.. 2-3 weeks of downtime (it helps not to break things)

I used new rods for the Y (back and forth) axis, but didn't want to bother cutting the rods down for the X (left to right) axis, but with new bearings it seems to work pretty well.

Now that I'm printing again, I can print more upgrades for my printer.  8*)

Need to stop by a machine shop and get an adapter made for the E3D Hot End, so I can use both of my 'legacy' hot ends and my new E3D one without changing out carriages.

Or design a hybrid carriage system that'll combine the best features of both.  Sure would have been nice to use the original end less belts and clamps on the Lawsy carriages instead of cutting, drilling(*), and screwing (with?) the Lawsy attachment system.

(*) I found that a high-speed drill used very lightly will cut through the belt and leave a usable hole without resorting to clamping or burning.

Anyway, thanks again for all the help and advice!

Do I need cooling fans for either the X or Y axis steppers or the part under construction?  I've seen various upgrades for this kind of thing, but wonder how necessary they are...

Thanks!

OK, so I bought some cheap LM8UU bearings from Amazon, and they feel horrible on my stock shafts (each one feels different, but none of them slide like they should).  The stock bearings from the center carriage feel better, but not great on the stock shafts.

So I ordered eight of the http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/result/?Keyword=LMU8 bearings and four of the McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#6112k45/=vuu0b4 shafts

And the E3D HotEnd http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v … -Universal arrived today.

And I've got a bunch of M3 bolts, nuts, washers, tools on order from McMaster-Carr.

And I've got the Lawsy's carriages coming RSN

So what else am I missing, or what other pieces or tools am I going to need to get my SD4 up and running again?

Thanks!

If you want I was actually going to piece together some upgrade kits. I have supernight power supply, gt2 20 tooth pulleys and belt to replace all, new higher tolerance 6mm and 8mm rod and 5/16 wellnuts, and flanged bearings for rear. If interested let me know.

So I ordered eight of the http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/result/?Keyword=LMU8 bearings and four of the McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#6112k45/=vuu0b4 shafts

And the E3D HotEnd http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v … -Universal arrived today.

And I've got a bunch of M3 bolts, nuts, washers, tools on order from McMaster-Carr.

And I've got the Lawsy's carriages coming RSN

So what else am I missing, or what other pieces or tools am I going to need to get my SD4 up and running again?

Thanks!

I'm definitely giving the impression that I don't like linear bearing carriages. But I assure you that's not the case. I have my LM8UUs delivered and the only reason I haven't upgraded is my printer heater has problems and I can't print the parts yet.

I'm just trying to look at this objectively: cost might be an issue for people who bought a cheap Solidoodle instead of an Ultimaker. They should know the pros and cons and whether the problems they are experiencing is even related to the brass and teflon carriage or not and whether it's worth it for them personally to make a new carriage. In this case I personally think the issue was badly glued carriage (poor assembly), not the carriage design and infill density.

Fine.

Doesn't OP also need to replace the 2 side rods now because the stock are low tolerance not suited for linear bearings?
There's more than one reason I have for not ditching the stock carriage.

I can think of a few users that have managed to work with the stock rods.  Most choose to switch to higher quality rods while they are there.