<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Banding; software or hardware]]> 2013-01-06T07:33:29Z PunBB https://www.soliforum.com/topic/927/banding-software-or-hardware/ <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> That was actually smoother than I thought it would be smile you can certainly see an uneven vertical speed which would cause banding especially if you had the flow rate turned up then it would be way more noticeable.

nice piston BTW smile

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/296/ 2013-01-06T07:33:29Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8704/#p8704 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> I have very minor banding, only visible in 0.1mm, here is is visible on a piston I have printed:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zLSs2VpokxI/UOkNBqb_TkI/AAAAAAAAA8c/CK2D_8L5vP8/s912/P1000682.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A45jHEvywzM/UOkNJPxuhvI/AAAAAAAAA8s/xyevEJMUP34/s912/P1000677.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hZEhMd-2uYI/UOkNFopGXxI/AAAAAAAAA8k/C4OZgz8mNgE/s912/P1000681.JPG

So no way near as bad as many people are getting, I am pretty convinced it is hardware. So I finally got myself a cheap laser pointer and attached it to the bed using a binder clip. And projected it onto a wall about 5m away and recorded this video of homing the Z from 100mm down. I repeated it with and without the Z-Nut fix. The Z Nut did slightly improve my prints, but the change in wobble on the video is not very discernible, also the laser pointer ran out of power by the end of the video (had been running for about 10 minutes of me working on things).

You can clearly see the laser pointer is not moving in a smooth progression. It has a wobble/small circle pattern to it.

I am pretty sure if someone repeats the same trick, with a printer with much worse banding, they would get the same effect but more exaggerated.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/351/ 2013-01-06T06:26:13Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8700/#p8700 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> good work man keep it up smile

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/617/ 2013-01-06T01:23:13Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8684/#p8684 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> jefferysanders wrote:

Seems wrapping the TR in AL foil and then saturating it afterwards with drano has done the trick...the motor is now off and embedded in the wall....j/k....DO NOT ACTUALLY DO THIS....LAWL.

LOL, thats great!!! smile




The laser pointer idea work excellent also for showing error on all kinds of things http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Industrial- … 416973ee3d also got some of the ones with line output I glue them to just about anything that needs checking or keeping an eye on.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/296/ 2013-01-04T20:14:47Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8533/#p8533 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> I have been thinking about mounting a laser pointer to the bed. To measure the X/Y wobble while moving the Z-Axis up and down.

With a few meters to the wall, with some blue tacked paper to take measurements. It should really amplify any wobble, and allow you to try and remove it it without having to waste time on constant prints.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/351/ 2013-01-04T15:00:22Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8491/#p8491 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> Seems wrapping the TR in AL foil and then saturating it afterwards with drano has done the trick...the motor is now off and embedded in the wall....j/k....DO NOT ACTUALLY DO THIS....LAWL.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/106/ 2013-01-04T14:27:05Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8486/#p8486 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> jefferysanders wrote:

If you know that lead-screw is ok, why not pop it off, even if it takes a lot of force, and use it on the new motor and flexible coupling?  I really tried twice to get it off (tried pulling very hard and torquing it off 2 nuts to no avail)?  Well I guess I need to stop being such a p**sy and just keep torquing LOL.


Just use some explosives of course.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/13/ 2013-01-03T17:46:14Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8409/#p8409 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> If you know that lead-screw is ok, why not pop it off, even if it takes a lot of force, and use it on the new motor and flexible coupling?  I really tried twice to get it off (tried pulling very hard and torquing it off 2 nuts to no avail)?  Well I guess I need to stop being such a p**sy and just keep torquing LOL.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/106/ 2013-01-03T17:40:06Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8408/#p8408 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> Removing the lead screw takes about 15 minutes... most of that for dis-assembly.  I had to use 3 jam nuts (5/16-18's) to get it off the motor.  Screw two to the bottom, grab a couple of pliers (It took me 2 as I had to hold the screw with one and the nuts with the other), then rotate to apply pressure to the motor.  After a couple of turns, both nuts were spinning freely, but the shaft was still not free.  I added another nut and did some more turning and the shaft literally popped off.  Then I just had to superglue the new screw onto the motor shaft and wait.  Re-assembly took another 5 minutes.  Total time was about 30 minutes to remove, replace, re-assemble.

I noticed immediate improvement in the quality of the prints.  Minimal banding at best and I managed to reduce that even further by slowing down the perimeters.

As for 3, if you can afford it, sure, but you should only need the one, unless you were sent another bent one which shouldn't be happening.  If you really want to test, get one new screw and a coupling.  Test the old screw with the coupling, then the new screw.  Would be a full afternoons work, but you'd get your answer.

Edit:
Adding a pic of before/after replacement.  Same STL file used for both prints, .3 mm layer height.
http://www.kenzden.com/download/PartCompare-a.jpg
As you can see, the left one shows considerably less banding than the one on the right.  This is the degree of bend that was in the lead screw that I replaced.  I get some pretty respectable prints now and I'm working on getting the .1 mm layer height configs to work.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/129/ 2013-01-03T17:33:20Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8406/#p8406 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> Jeffery, that print looks great. Red is hard to see but I don't see any banding there. Possibly, a little bit of z axis wobble stuff, but not banding. If you know that leadscrew is ok, why not pop it off, even if it takes a lot of force, and use it on the new motor and flexible coupling?  Back to the original post though, I'd like to see some stls and pics showing banding that others can print with the same settings and determine how much, if any, software plays a role in banding. I suspect that the role it plays, as Jeffery points out, is to exacerbate existing banding issues depending on speed, z lift, and perimeters.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/13/ 2013-01-03T17:30:11Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8404/#p8404 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> nickythegreek wrote:

How easy is it to change the Z rod? I see they are $9 on the solidoodle store..  Should I just buy 3 of them and test each out to see how they affect banding?

Someone said it is easy to get the screw off the motor shaft, it was not in my case...so I wouldn't go for their threaded rods;  I would buy 1 good LS and try a soft/flexible coupling.  I need another motor (ordering now) or I would have already done this months ago.  (as you can see I don't have terrible issues either)

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/106/ 2013-01-03T17:11:49Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8399/#p8399 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> How easy is it to change the Z rod? I see they are $9 on the solidoodle store..  Should I just buy 3 of them and test each out to see how they affect banding?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/366/ 2013-01-03T16:58:56Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8396/#p8396 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> That looked somewhat better than one of my best efforts. http://i.imgur.com/FCRTi.jpg I have not seen this print before today.  It makes me want to remove my rod and use a Upvc or (printed+suguru) coupling.  Kendall also has a coupling and his prints look very banded; mine is just glued on a bit crooked.  What about looking at the object upside down or from the sides?

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/106/ 2013-01-03T16:57:25Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8395/#p8395 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> jefferysanders wrote:

... I have not seen a single sd2 printed part posted anywhere, I see bands on everyone's prints to some degree and have yet seen a print free of banding; ...

not true..

http://www.thingiverse.com/image:179378
see, this is one of my first big print with an ABS coupler on the Z axis and with pronterface (0.3mm).. no banding.
at this time, i have a very light banding only on 0.1mm printing


Banding appear on my print AFTER i changed the Z axis to the new "no coupler" z axis, and i changed my software to Repetier-host.. now i have banding on all size of printing (0.1 to 0.3mm)

now, i come back to my old z axis with the ABS coupler and banding almost vanished ..

i think to try this coupler ( http://www.voxelfactory.com/collections … lers-2-pcs )

i think the "flexible" part is the secret..

and for the "software or hadrware" question...

Slic3r add banding up to 0.9.7 version .. depending of the stl.. the same stl at same precision is perfect with pronterface or kissclicer

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/40/ 2013-01-03T15:45:08Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8383/#p8383 <![CDATA[Re: Banding; software or hardware]]> It is mechanical and there is no doubt software mis-configurations such as speed (user, sw bug, or system bug initiated) can amplify the issue.  I have not seen a single sd2 printed part posted anywhere, I see bands on everyone's prints to some degree and have yet seen a print free of banding; you may need to change the angle that you look at the print, even the printed parts used to build the printer are banded. I will test using ultra-slow external perimeters, this should not be needed...I never noticed a a difference in my quality when using my .3, .2., .1 settings at different reasonable speeds.


The best .stl (http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17273) imo and the one I use to test is the simple .5mm single-walled cube; I multiply the height in RH to 6x or so. Your level of banding will show up and the print will be thin enough to be opaque allowing you to shine light through which really enhances the ability to see the issue.

]]> https://www.soliforum.com/user/106/ 2013-01-03T14:08:31Z https://www.soliforum.com/post/8375/#p8375