I owe you a couple beers already, man. I appreciate the help!

Yeah, I unplugged absolutely everything on the board, and it still shows a short. So it's not something easy like a short on an LED or something.

Hopefully XYZ will be willing to sell me a new board. I'm waiting to hear back from them to see if they will.

Thanks for all the help!

You could power it up and feel around on the board. If you are measuring a short then something should be getting considerably warm to the point of being uncomfortable to touch. There are no dangerous voltage on the PCB so you won't get shocked or anything and yes this is an official method of troubleshooting shorts on low voltage boards. If you could find the actual component you could get it at Mouser or Digikey. Most of the parts on the board are not to small to hand solder except the CPU and even it could be if need be. Of course I am speaking from my trade as repairing PCB's is what I do for a living.

Just make sure you touch the metal part of the frame before you start checking for warm parts. That will drain off any static electricity your body may have built up which could damage the board further if it was discharged to the board. Static is bad in the winter due to the low humidity.

Hopefully XYZ will be willing to sell me a new board. I'm waiting to hear back from them to see if they will.

Thanks for all the help!

Okay, I bought another power supply. Good news and bad news time - bad new, it still doesn't work. Good news, I bought a Replicator 2X clone from the same store for $460. I'll be playing around with that this afternoon.

Back to my DaVinci - After poking around on the motherboard, I discovered that the 3.3v pin on the lower power supply port is shorting to ground.  Is that normal, or is that a sign of something fried on the board?

Thanks!
Andy

That would be a sign that something on your board is shorted...

Back to my DaVinci - After poking around on the motherboard, I discovered that the 3.3v pin on the lower power supply port is shorting to ground.  Is that normal, or is that a sign of something fried on the board?

Thanks!
Andy

So I ended up borrowing a multimeter to test my voltages. Everything *seems* like it's within spec. I don't know how to test it under a proper load since the machine really isn't responding, but my 3.3 is right on the dot at 3.3, my 5v is around a 5.0-5.1, and my 12 is at 11.85.

I also noticed that when I move the print head to the front of the machine, it tries to get back to home when I turn the power on, but it struggles really hard and only gets a couple inches, if that.  It doesn't seem like a mechanical blockage, it just seems weak.

I'm gonna grab a power supply out of an old rackmount computer I have in the closet and see if this machine does anything different with a known functioning supply.

If that doesn't do it... I think I'm SOL. XYZ support wants me to send my machine in to have them repair it (for an unknown price), but FedEx wants almost $200 to ship the machine.

If this motherboard is really fried, could I pull it out and replace it with a generic 3D printer control board and essentially treat this thing as a standard "build it yourself" printer? I really don't want to start out with new hardware again after I got this one printing so nicely.

Thanks!
Andy

Your poser supply is the most likely suspect. They have them for 60 bucks on the XYZ parts store which is a reasonable price. I paid 75 for one that was 50 watts higher.

Yes you can install another controller BUT you will be right back to fine tuning and tweaking since all the tuning is done by and stored in the controller.

I also noticed that when I move the print head to the front of the machine, it tries to get back to home when I turn the power on, but it struggles really hard and only gets a couple inches, if that.  It doesn't seem like a mechanical blockage, it just seems weak.

I'm gonna grab a power supply out of an old rackmount computer I have in the closet and see if this machine does anything different with a known functioning supply.

If that doesn't do it... I think I'm SOL. XYZ support wants me to send my machine in to have them repair it (for an unknown price), but FedEx wants almost $200 to ship the machine.

If this motherboard is really fried, could I pull it out and replace it with a generic 3D printer control board and essentially treat this thing as a standard "build it yourself" printer? I really don't want to start out with new hardware again after I got this one printing so nicely.

Thanks!
Andy

Okay, no problem. 

I found a couple models in the 30-35 dollar range on Amazon. If anything I'll just buy a couple P4 extension cables and splice those onto the new unit, rather than cutting anything up.

Of course, first I have to determine if the PSU is obviously faulty or not.

Thanks!

Oh, by the way. Do you know of anywhere people might be selling parts out of their broken printers? I know we're not typically a crowd who throws potentially-useful components away, but I thought I'd ask.

I only have one right now and it's parts are all good. Unfortunately I can't recall/find what I did with my old power supply. It may have dies as well  which was the other reason I upgraded it.

I found a couple models in the 30-35 dollar range on Amazon. If anything I'll just buy a couple P4 extension cables and splice those onto the new unit, rather than cutting anything up.

Of course, first I have to determine if the PSU is obviously faulty or not.

Thanks!

Oh, by the way. Do you know of anywhere people might be selling parts out of their broken printers? I know we're not typically a crowd who throws potentially-useful components away, but I thought I'd ask.

Yeah, I was looking at the one in the store. I was just hoping I could get one off Amazon or something for half the price just to see if the machine worked with a new unit.

The models I've found seem to have different power connectors. Is that to be expected, or am I looking at the wrong things?

Seriously, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

They are different, you will need to splice the machines connectors on to the new power supply. The power switch will also have to be sliced to the new power supply as well. That was the reason I mentioned the XWZ model as it would have the proper connections to just drop in. it's been a while but I think I paid 75 for mine.

The models I've found seem to have different power connectors. Is that to be expected, or am I looking at the wrong things?

Seriously, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

Thanks!  I know I have a multimeter around here somewhere, but, of course, I can't find it.

Is flex ATX a standard form factor then? So would I be able to order a third party model with similar or better specs and be able to install it?

I appreciate the help!  I'll let you know how I make out after I find my multimeter (or go and buy another one).

I ordered one with higher wattage because I added LED strips but yes it is a standard form factor. I got mine on eBay. They also sell direct replacements on the XYZ website in the parts store.

thingiverse[dot]com/thing:634403

Check out the photos of the frogs (full screen for best effect)... I'm so upset. I had this machine tuned up so well that I was able to get that super clean frog print with the default XYZware and firmware, at totally default settings (.2mm, medium infill, standard shells, standard speed).

I had finally gotten this printer where I wanted it, and screwed it up while I was crossing the finish line with the final install.

hahaha... ah man.  I really don't want to start this all over again.

Is flex ATX a standard form factor then? So would I be able to order a third party model with similar or better specs and be able to install it?

I appreciate the help!  I'll let you know how I make out after I find my multimeter (or go and buy another one).

Do any of you fine folk know how I should go about testing the power supply to verify whether or not it's damaged? This is one area where I'm fairly clueless.

Thanks!

If you have a Digital Multi Meter you can measure it's outputs while connected to make sure its under load. The power supply is actually whats called a flex atx supply used for those supper small computers. Using a DMM  measure between a black and yellow, black and red, then black and orange. Yellow is 12vdc, red is 5vdc, and orange is 3.3vdc. The yellow will be the one you will be most interested in.