I can buy bonsailab.asia
The firmware can be used in normal.
The print was Yoda and bust in the same way also the hot end of Da Vinci
Need not be exchanged from be printed.
Yes you can buy, but we can't. I went tot he site which is in Japanese and was able to navigate to the parts page, but they only sell the parts of the extruder and not the whole thing. I doubt a person in the US could even purchase from them directly.
]]>tintinmaru wrote:Extruder normal
Change hotend to BS01
Fan does not use in testing.
Might be changed to sirocco fan.
Plans to put the ductttp://sylphys.ddo.jp/upld2nd/mokei3/src/1417430734343.jpg
Where would you be able to purchase the BS01 Hotend?
thanks
alex
I was looking in to that myself without much luck. There is also the E3D. But all of these require you to switch firmware and run a different host.
]]>Extruder normal
Change hotend to BS01
Fan does not use in testing.
Might be changed to sirocco fan.
Plans to put the ductttp://sylphys.ddo.jp/upld2nd/mokei3/src/1417430734343.jpg
Where would you be able to purchase the BS01 Hotend?
thanks
alex
tintinmaru wrote:Extruder normal
Change hotend to BS01
Fan does not use in testing.
Might be changed to sirocco fan.
Plans to put the ductttp://sylphys.ddo.jp/upld2nd/mokei3/src/1417430734343.jpg
how are you calibrating without the deviance hotend?
I would guess he is doing it manually like most of us are doing now. Much faster and more accurate. As far as I have seen the Autocal on every machine it comes on always sets to high for optimal adhesion.
]]>Extruder normal
Change hotend to BS01
Fan does not use in testing.
Might be changed to sirocco fan.
Plans to put the ductttp://sylphys.ddo.jp/upld2nd/mokei3/src/1417430734343.jpg
how are you calibrating without the deviance hotend?
]]>ttp://sylphys.ddo.jp/upld2nd/mokei3/src/1417430734343.jpg
]]>My printer was a bit quieter while printing.
The print came out looking generally much better than previously.
The layers were more uniform compared to previous prints of the same part.
The only issue I had was actually because one of the parts I printed (I printed 4 parts at once) didn't adhere during the first layer very well, which made little bits of plastic stick to the hot end and eventually they adhered to one of the other parts, causing some differences with 1 of the other parts.
Outside of that, they printed much better than the same parts I printed right before the hot glue.
I would suggest it.
As a side note, I wasn't very careful when applying the hot glue. Some of it touched the slides, which slightly adhered then. I moved all the pieces around and then slowly removed a little bit of hot glue around the areas that had adhered with a scalpel. This worked very well and it meant I didn't need to be extra careful when applying the hot glue.
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:The perforated metal is just being used as mount for a second fan that blows through the print area.
Thanks Carl.
I know with my other printer I have a fan blowing on the print area (when I am printing PLA), but why would you need a fan blowing on the print area for ABS? I also hear this extruder has some serious heat creep which makes PLA off limits unless you put a fan and heat sink on the extruder itself.
Speaking for myself, a fan on the print area for ABS should prevent corners and edges on large or thick prints from lifting a curling. That is caused by the middle staying hotter than the edges. The fan cools each layer which keeps the overall temp even.
There is also new thread where a user is printing PLA with stock head with no problems. All he did was season it with oil. Like you would a cast iron pan to prevent sticking. His theory is the stickiness of PLA due to it being sugar based is the real issue and not heat creep.
]]>carl_m1968 wrote:The perforated metal is just being used as mount for a second fan that blows through the print area.
Thanks Carl.
I know with my other printer I have a fan blowing on the print area (when I am printing PLA), but why would you need a fan blowing on the print area for ABS? I also hear this extruder has some serious heat creep which makes PLA off limits unless you put a fan and heat sink on the extruder itself.
Speaking for myself, a fan on the print area for ABS should prevent corners and edges on large or thick prints from lifting a curling. That is caused by the middle staying hotter than the edges. The fan cools each lsyer wich keeps the overall temp even.
There is also new thread where a user is printing PLA with stock head with no problems. All he did was season it with oil. Like you would a cast iron pan to prevent sticking. His theory is the stickiness of PLA due to it being sugar based is the real issue and not heat creep.
]]>The perforated metal is just being used as mount for a second fan that blows through the print area.
Thanks Carl.
I know with my other printer I have a fan blowing on the print area (when I am printing PLA), but why would you need a fan blowing on the print area for ABS? I also hear this extruder has some serious heat creep which makes PLA off limits unless you put a fan and heat sink on the extruder itself.
]]>Is that a custom extruder? Is that a heat shield in front of the extruder that is above the fan?
It looks to be stock if you zoom the image. The perforated metal is just being used as mount for s second fan that blows through the print area. I like this idea but I think I will print one. There will still be an issue of cooling the backside of the print.
]]>Is that a custom extruder? Is that a heat shield in front of the extruder that is above the fan?
It looks to be dtock if you zoom the image. The perforated metal is just being used as mount for s second fan that blows through the print area. I like this idea but I think I will print one. There will still be an issue of cooling the backside of the print.
]]>