Actually if you can get a hot end such as  PEEK Jhead that has heat block wit an integrated nozzle made of aluminum you would have no issues using pla. I am thinking of dropping the E3D and going with just a plain jane Jhead with resin body. I had one on my 3DStuffmaker that never had an issue with PLA as that was the filament it was designed for. Just have to make sure it can do ABS temps as well. I prefer ABS. It is not as brittle and you can use it for outdoor items. PLA is biodegradable and will break down aftet a few years in the sun and weather. It will also melt if left in a var in the summet while ABS may not.

Great info, the jhead is the way to go. I am looking into doing a full swap with repeater.

If ABS could print without such high temps, warmup times, glue stick, warping and overhang issues I would stick with ABS.

I purchased a brand new Davinci hoping to keep it strictly ABS, after the third print it clogged and now Im returning it and going to invest in something more precise. Perhaps a flashforge or the micro center version of replicator dual 3d which runs a mk8 with a large build platform. I've been looking into building a corexy design as it makes sense. Seriously precise, fast, and under 400 usd to build, 50 micron some as much as 20 micron just like those deltas. I cannot believe how much banding there is with the Davincis, a major flaw in this design which involes a fair amount of hardware and guide tuning. If anyone is running reporter and printing PLA could you post pics of your banding printing PLA white models like cute octopus or any circular models that would show the splits in the banding.

BTW this new head is on all th new Davincs from the duo to the new aio. Did not come on my Brand new 1.0

The culprit was not so much the heat but the PLA itself. I will post a few pics with a thread dedicated to printing PLA.

PLA is known to stick to and gunk up majority of all metal hotends. i.e. ed3 etc.

After a load of failed prints, success, odd failures, slicer settings ... the solution that ultimately worked was "seasoning my hotend and/or oiling. There are loads of info regarding PLA jamming.

Search "Seasoning Hotend"
You take about 20cm of PLA wipe and lightly coat it with some veg oil, canola, peanut, or olive, etc. get your extruder/hotend up to 230c and feed it through ... hear a few pops etc, next feed through 10cm of regular uncoated PLA, repeat again and that's it. You will have some light oil that will burn off and not affect the print much or at all, however use gluestick afterwards. This supposedly burns into the brass metal etc keeping the sugar like sticky molecules of PLA from sticking to the walls.

Some people use dust/oiler couplers 24/7 for PLA... this is how bad it is. Which i think I might end up doing. I repeat oiling overtime i switch Spools.

No jamming and no extra fans. I did modify the Fan that is mounted on the rear and taped up the sides. i added a molded duct to direct more air towards the 6mm hotnend bolt/channel.

The front clip fan should be added to do closed printing/ also provides better bridging. Will try to get a modified clip front fan duct that directs air closer to the print/nozzle.

Printing with PLA vs ABs really shows Davinci's shortcomings. You can see all the imperfections. ESP Z banding GAPS.

Yes PLA is here to stay.

I've had a front fan installed already for a while now on my 1.0 (with Repetier)... Are you guys saying that all I need to do in order to print with PLA is tape the sides of the rear fan and set the bed and extruder temps low enough? cause then you'd make me happy man I'm sick of the warping ruining my prints, I hope it's better with PLA.

Yes, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:433113 or kapton tape, both worked the same.

Oh.. And no.. Didn't tape anything... Completely stock .
Curious what your setup looks like.

The tape did the trick, blows more air directly at the filament guide. this is where it jams. pla tends to be more sensitive to the feeder pulleys so you should giver a good brushing every jam.

Less than a week to ship via standard shipping.

BTW if you are having heater bed / core connection issues and you don't mind voiding the warranty, replacing the cheap connectors with Deans connectors worked wonders for me. My core would lose power 1/2 way through the print. I also got errors during heat-up or it just wouldn't heat the extruder at all.

I will try the front 40mm fan mod. I tried the rear fan mod on the old extruder with a heat sink around the barrel... Inconclusive results with PLA (one test print jammed).

Yeah already there, one of the wires snapped at the cylinder head. I just ordered a 5 pack from amazon, Monday should be up and running. I'm not sure if a solder epoxy job will hold up for more than a few hours.

BTW if you are having heater bed / core connection issues and you don't mind voiding the warranty, replacing the cheap connectors with Deans connectors worked wonders for me. My core would lose power 1/2 way through the print. I also got errors during heat-up or it just wouldn't heat the extruder at all.

I will try the front 40mm fan mod. I tried the rear fan mod on the old extruder with a heat sink around the barrel... Inconclusive results with PLA (one test print jammed).

I did this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:433113 after taping first. I coiled a couple of copper rings under nut that attaches the extruder but was unable to test the upgraded rear mount and copper rings, New heater core is coming Monday.

also, you need to install a clip on fan,  any from thingiverse should be good. When everything is up and running i will post pics of my setup.

How long did it take for xyz to ship you the extruder?

BTW the new optical filament sensor is less sensitive. The PLA filament (semi transparent) would make the old extruder sensor think the filament was not in the printer. The new sensor had no issues.

PLA will stick directly to heated glass.  You dont need glue, tape, or anything else just bare, clean glass that is about 80c. I have used PLA on my previous printer for nearly two years and used a glass mirror on top of the aluminum print bed. Once it cools, the part will lift right of and if you are near it at the right time you will actually hear when the part comes loose.

Hey Carl, 50c and it was stuck like glue. I read here somewhere about PLA not needing heat after the first few initial layers.

Updated extruder to the closed rear fan mount and clip-on 40mm front. Right before my second print the heater core malfunctioned. loose connection.

I am going to finally start warranty for heater core issues and connectors. My bed has the infamous glass peel about 20mm by 5mm ... has anyone had success doing warranty with them sending out first? I'm wondering if they are willing to do a charge hold until return is accepted.

PLA Printed great with slicer at 190c/50c at average speed. I read somewhere, you are able to turn the heated bed off after fist few layers, Anyone doing this?

I noticed PLA needs cooling from the rear as well. Either thinking of adding an articulating manual fan inside the davinci or a modified rear fan mount that will direct some air towards the bed.

If you are going to print with PLA adding a small heatsink on the threaded rod connected to your head and/or taping the sides of the rear fan mount with captain to direct more airflow to the filament guide did the trick. I taped the sides worked great.

I setup one Cart with PLA startup Temps (tried to set heatbed at 50c, I believe xyz gave an error. Will double check after heater core fix) 210c 90c lowest setting i believe you can go with stock firmware. Slicer will lower temps only after stock temps are reached. This partially but ultimately defeats the benefits of printing with PLA when comparing consumption.