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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Slic3r is not working out]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/827/" />
	<updated>2012-12-18T23:03:46Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/827/slic3r-is-not-working-out/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Slic3r is not working out]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/7434/#p7434" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Try raising your bed 1/6th-1/4 turn of the screw. Also, don&#039;t print till you hit at least 90 on the bed. I print on glass treated with PVA glue and doing that means it sticks every time, regardless of slicer</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[ErroneousBosch]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/35/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-12-18T23:03:46Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7434/#p7434</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Slic3r is not working out]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/7381/#p7381" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Be sure to clean your kapton with Iso and I think it is best to do that while the bed is cool and print with your bed at 100.</p><p>I had a lot of sticking issues and went to the glass bed + hairspray (the whole switch will cost you less then $10) and have had no issues since.</p><p>Slic3r can do brims, which I like more than rafts because they are super easy to remove. Try a 2mm brim your prints.</p><p>Finally, be sure to level your bed. Below is the Official Solidoodle video, their technique worked perfect for me.</p><p><div class="fancy_video_tag_player"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/55450537" width="640" height="385" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[nickythegreek]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/366/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-12-18T01:59:13Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7381/#p7381</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Slic3r is not working out]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/7379/#p7379" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>If you can&#039;t get slicer working correctly then id assume you have plenty of calibration to do before you could even consider&nbsp; .1 prints. </p><p>Don&#039;t quote me here because I could be wrong.&nbsp; I think the main difference causing issues from pronterface/skeinforge to repetier/slicer is first layer height.&nbsp; When I made the switch I was pretty dialed in for pronterface, had a good first layer height,&nbsp; everything stuck well. When I switched it went from great first layer height to drastically to high . I think that pronterface/skeinforge runs first layer height at z0 as opposed to slicer as .3 or whatever you have set.</p><p>Id calibrate everything and go from there</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[devilman2075]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/70/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-12-18T01:49:40Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7379/#p7379</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Slic3r is not working out]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/7373/#p7373" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>It seems like the biggest draw back for me so far is not having a raft.<br />Even with everything at perfect temperatures my extrusion drags or doesn&#039;t stick to me kapton tape. I figured it is a down grade to go from the kapton to painters tape. I also have gaffing tape and was wondering if that would work.</p><p>By layer two something has a bump and it ruins the whole part.</p><p>Any suggestions?</p><p>Should I stick with Pronterface? I&#039;d like 0.1mm.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[timfox]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/526/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2012-12-18T00:00:51Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/7373/#p7373</id>
		</entry>
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