What I did decide on however was to bite the bullet and purchase Simplify3d. I can say for sure now that it does work and it's fairly painless to setup. After about the 8th repeat of the same model that Makerware Desktop just wouldn't slice properly, I decided to save my sanity and go with software that does support the machine.

I appreciate the link even if I never upgrade, 3D printers eat parts over time.

http://unclechucks3dprinterstuff.com/index.htm

Hardware wise, mine has the same issues that have been mentioned by others in this thread. Screws all over the machine were loose. Left extruder needed to be adjusted to level. Bed temperature isn't accurate. Easy fixes for most, but for the bed temp issue, I had to resort to cheating. I simply set the bed temp to 130 if I want an actual temp of 100.  I did install a glass bed above the aluminum one, I decided that was an essential upgrade if your printing anything beyond PLA.

Issues that I still could fix but probably won't are the poor extruder design (my 1.65 filament extrudes, so spring loaded or not, it does work).

Worst issue is of course the software. Even after you upgrade to Sailfish (7.7 on mine currently) you still stuck with a printer that can't use gcode directly. This leaves you with several options, some far more painful than others. If you can live with the Makerbot Desktop 2.4 that comes with the printer, your all set. It integrates perfectly with Meshmixer which will provide good supports and all you need Makerbot Desktop to do is slice. Makerbot Desktop "expert settings" are completely hidden. You need to create profiles to get the most out of the software, but there are tools to help you do so.

If Makerbot's software isn't good enough for you, that is where the problems start. While there is a converter (gpx.exe) you'll probably find that getting any other program to slice and position on the bed properly is going to take a lot of time and effort even after you follow one of the many guides others have written. For myself, I'm sticking with Makerbot Desktop for the time being while deciding on Simplify3d. Your other option is an electronics upgrade, which isn't cheap or easy.

has anybody managed to modify the CTC 3d to extend the available print area?

You would need to change the frame and mechanics. The bed is that size to accomodate both nozzles.

Tin Falcon wrote:

If you upgrade to saltfish firmware you can run RH. this may help you.
http://www.3duniverse.org/3D%20Universe … Manual.pdf
Tin

Nice. I will need to save that for a rainy day.

Simplify3D cost $140, so I had better get some use out of it! lol

So far I really like it and it has pretty much all the features of RH, plus some. I am not convinced it is really worth $140 yet, though. I imagine its worth will shine once I start actually messing with dual extrusion and interactive supports which supposedly is its forte.

So am I reading correctly? With a sailfish firmware printer I can run RH? Repetier Host? Or is rh something else?

Do you know if I could hack something temporarily with a resistor change possibly?   

Or is a new bed in order?

I'd like to get the bed sorted before thinking about upgrading the electronics if possible.

Do you know if I upgraded to Sailfish or another.. can I set it to go higher than 120 degrees?  Or am I limited by the electronics?

I think 90 degrees would be ideal if I could achieve it..  as that is probably what I got the bed to on my successful print (with the hot air gun)

But even at max setting, it only reads around 70 degrees from multiple points across the top of the aluminium..  Using k-type thermocoupler in a Fluke 187 multimeter..  Also checked using 2 other thermometers/thermocouplers I have..

60 to 90 is the average bed temp for most filaments.. The issue with your bed is the thermocouple offset and there is no way to access it on these machine running their current boards and firmware..

There was more than one reason I went to a Smoothie variant on my CT'c.

I have the same problem as the original poster..  (I hope you're still around..  I know it's an old post..) 
How did you fix your issue of a bed temperature that is way off? 

I can't seem to set my temperature higher than 120 degrees..  and yet using a k type probe, it reads around 70 degrees. 
As such, all ABS prints warp and lift off the bed..  (apart from one print that did whilst blowing hot air directly on the bed. 
PS. I have foil on it at the moment as temporary sides/fronts and a little on the top too..  Ambient is around 50 degrees inside.

No matter the material you are using your bed should not have to be set over 100 maybe 110 at max.

I can't seem to set my temperature higher than 120 degrees..  and yet using a k type probe, it reads around 70 degrees. 
As such, all ABS prints warp and lift off the bed..  (apart from one print that did whilst blowing hot air directly on the bed. 
PS. I have foil on it at the moment as temporary sides/fronts and a little on the top too..  Ambient is around 50 degrees inside.

Ax wrote:

Ok, so an update on My CTC. I've now gone through 2 motherboards, first one the temp on the right side wasn't being read, and the 2nd it would just lock up with any firmware that was loaded on to it. I've since gone to Paypal and got a full refund. With that I've bought a Flashforge board, overall my experience with CTC and their printers, not good, I won't be buying another for the Farm.

There is only two versions of firmware you can put on a CTC motherboard. That would be sailfish (preferred) or the stock firmware. The printer itself if the all metal one like mine is a good machine and has good components. The motherboard however is the weakness and that is easily fixed by using an Azteeg X3 Pro instead.

It ran fine with the Makerbot Replicator 1 Firmware on there on the original Board. 2nd Board had Sailfish on there but had booting issues, resetting it usually kicked it back in, but it died a couple of weeks ago. The FF board came in this afternoon, it has Sailfish on as standard and is a 2560 Chip. Had to take the plastic connecting blocks off the CTC board to connect the Bed and end stops, aside from that it's all good, no major prints have been done as yet, but I'll be kicking production off tomorrow with it.

Ok, so an update on My CTC. I've now gone through 2 motherboards, first one the temp on the right side wasn't being read, and the 2nd it would just lock up with any firmware that was loaded on to it. I've since gone to Paypal and got a full refund. With that I've bought a Flashforge board, overall my experience with CTC and their printers, not good, I won't be buying another for the Farm.

There is only two versions of firmware you can put on a CTC motherboard. That would be sailfish (preferred) or the stock firmware. The printer itself if the all metal one like mine is a good machine and has good components. The motherboard however is the weakness and that is easily fixed by using an Azteeg X3 Pro instead.